Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Perimetre Windows

M

Mike Dupre

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anybody care to get in to a discussion about shocks?
I was hoping to use the Litton SP3237 with Ademco's 5819 but am not too
thrilled with the results.
I'm trying them on wood frame sliders and although there are response time
and count settings on the transmitter, I'm finding I can't use a setting
that satisfies BOTH windows. I've tried the tx and shock on the mullion (?,
left side of right hand window so I can stick a magnet on the left side
window (it opens as well). Even with both settings at least sensitive, it'll
go off if I thump the window with my hand. Sooooo, I move the apparatus to
the left side of the opening and frame mount it and there's an improvement
but adjusting for the right window makes the left one too sensitive....
vice-versa when I move to the right side of the opening. Now I'm thinking
two shocks, perhaps another magnet too. There'll be a lot of wire on a
wireless window and labour intensive to boot. I'm wondering if I've stumbled
on the reason when the friggin things are so little used... now I'm thinking
contacts and space area glass breaks...
How are you guys handling retrofit perimetre windows?
 
B

badenov

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mike said;
I'm trying them on wood frame sliders and although there are response time
and count settings on the transmitter, I'm finding I can't use a setting
that satisfies BOTH windows. I've tried the tx and shock on the mullion (?,
left side of right hand window so I can stick a magnet on the left side
window (it opens as well). Even with both settings at least sensitive, it'll
go off if I thump the window with my hand. Sooooo, I move the apparatus to
the left side of the opening and frame mount it and there's an improvement
but adjusting for the right window makes the left one too sensitive....
vice-versa when I move to the right side of the opening.

The problem you're having is that the stationary side of the window is
rigidly nailed to the window frame, while the movable side is intentionally
loose-fitting so that it can move. The vibrations caused by breaking
glass have to get off the movable portion of the window and onto the frame
before a frame-mounted sensor can detect them. Obviously, some of those
vibrations will get lost along the way.

The tighter the slider locks into the frame, the better vibrations will
travel. So when testing, you need to lock the window, and the user needs
to understand it has to be locked to work correctly. You may find the best
place for the sensor is on the frame, directly in line with the lock where
the windows overlap. But all you can really do is play with it. If you
adjust the sensor so that it works well when the stationary window is hit,
the sliding portion may be dead. Adjust it so the movable side works
properly, and the stationary side may be too hot.

I haven't used the 5819, but if there is a "double knock" setting for
glass, be sure and try it. This requires an initial shock followed
immediately by a weaker aftershock. This will sometimes let you use a
higher sensitivity without excessive false alarms.

By the way, a shock sensor should not go off when you thump the window with
your fist. Use the plastic handle of a screwdriver to tap on the window.
But not too hard...:)

Bottom line, shock sensors are a pain in the ass for movable windows, and
sometimes false alarms can be difficult to fix.. If you have large enough
panes to work with an audio glass break sensor, I'd try that first if you
can.

- badenov
 
Top