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PCB Sensitivity to UV exposure?

I just had a thought.. if pcb's are made by exposeing them to UV light.
Followed etch bath. Could sunlight later on compromise the pcb .. ?
 
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DecaturTxCowboy

Jan 1, 1970
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I just had a thought.. if pcb's are made by exposeing them to UV light.
Followed etch bath. Could sunlight later on compromise the pcb .. ?

No. The UV sensitivity is only during the manufacturing process. Once
the board is etched, sunlight is not a problem.
 
No. The UV sensitivity is only during the manufacturing process. Once
the board is etched, sunlight is not a problem.

Eg when the conductive layer (copper) is exposed to the etch fluid. It will
harden in such way it become uv-resistent ..?
 
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DJ Delorie

Jan 1, 1970
0
The etch *mask* is UV sensitive. After etching, the remaining mask is
cleaned off, leaving just copper. Copper is not UV sensitive.
 
DJ Delorie said:
The etch *mask* is UV sensitive. After etching, the remaining mask is
cleaned off, leaving just copper. Copper is not UV sensitive.

That makes sense. Are there other cleaning methods than Etanol or Isopropanol
that does a significantly better job ..?
 
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Peter Bennett

Jan 1, 1970
0
No. The UV sensitivity is only during the manufacturing process. Once
the board is etched, sunlight is not a problem.

Eg when the conductive layer (copper) is exposed to the etch fluid. It will
harden in such way it become uv-resistent ..?[/QUOTE]

No.

The bare copper-clad board is coated with a photosensitive material.
A film containing the required copper pattern is placed over the
board, then the combination is exposed to UV light. The board is then
"developed" to remove the unexposed coating, leaving the desired
copper protected by the exposed coating. The board is then etched to
remove the unwanted copper, and finally cleaned to remove the
remaining photosensitive coating, so you can solder to the copper.

In commercial processing, I think the photosensitive coating is
removed over the wanted copper, which is then plated with tin, which
will protect that copper during etching.

Copper itself is not light-sensitive.
 
Eg when the conductive layer (copper) is exposed to the etch fluid. It will
The bare copper-clad board is coated with a photosensitive material.
A film containing the required copper pattern is placed over the
board, then the combination is exposed to UV light. The board is then
"developed" to remove the unexposed coating, leaving the desired
copper protected by the exposed coating. The board is then etched to
remove the unwanted copper, and finally cleaned to remove the
remaining photosensitive coating, so you can solder to the copper.
In commercial processing, I think the photosensitive coating is
removed over the wanted copper, which is then plated with tin, which
will protect that copper during etching.
Copper itself is not light-sensitive.

I figured that out, but the science is in the details =)
I brainstorming on a solution to speed up the process.
 
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DecaturTxCowboy

Jan 1, 1970
0
I figured that out, but the science is in the details =)
I brainstorming on a solution to speed up the process.


What part of what process?
 
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DecaturTxCowboy

Jan 1, 1970
0
That makes sense. Are there other cleaning methods than Etanol or Isopropanol
that does a significantly better job ..?

Not sure what you mean by "significantly better job". What ever method
you use, as long as it cleans it off, its suitable. Do you mean is there
a faster way?

If doing a small batch by hand, use a minimally abrasive sponge rated
for Teflon® cookware. As I recall, the commercial process uses a high
pressure solvent wash (but I stand to be corrected on that).
 
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DecaturTxCowboy

Jan 1, 1970
0
I want a "print pcb" machine ;)

Ummm..let me rephrase that. Are you looking to do one-time PCBs or a
batch of just a few, or a production line for PCBs?

The reason I ask it there are so many ways to go about making PCBs and
the best way is determined by your volume.
 
What part of what process?
Ummm..let me rephrase that. Are you looking to do one-time PCBs or a
batch of just a few, or a production line for PCBs?
The reason I ask it there are so many ways to go about making PCBs and
the best way is determined by your volume.

For development purposes (one-off). For massproduction there are other means.

I want this process in one go:
Source file -> Mask -> Exposure
 

If I understand it right:

* Print pattern/mask on a special (glossy) kind of papper.
* Ironing it onto a copper pcb at approx ~205 Celsius, 111-134 Newton.
* Soak the papper, and rub "it" off.
* Put the pcb in the etch bath.

The instructions is a bit unstructured ;)

The procedure still seems a bit messy. I have some other ideas that might push
the time significantlty down.

How is the copper film attached to the pcb .. ?
 
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ehsjr

Jan 1, 1970
0
Found this excellent guide: http://pminmo.com/pcbmaking.pdf

The key is that toner ink will protect the copper from etch fluid?

Yes. And if you take the time to absorb and understand the
information in the link that Decatur posted, it is even better
than the good one you posted.

Let me emphasise some key points in the process:
1) You want the copper on the PC board you will use
to be *clean*. I mean *CLEAN*
2) Do *not* rush the ironing. Use the 4 or 5 minutes
recommended and keep steady firm pressure while moving
the iron to prevent scorching.
3) Soak the bejusus out of the paper and board after
ironing - dunk it in a container of hot water and let
the thing soak until the paper comes away from the copper
without pulling the toner with it. In other words:
"DON'T PULL ON THE DAMN PAPER TOO SOON". Ask me how I know.
4) Gently rub the board to get most of the residue paper
off. Residue that seems to be embedded in the toner won't
hurt as long as the toner paths have crisp edges.

5) This is not so key - but bears mentioning. Etching
takes time. It can be sped up by keeping the etching
solution warm and by agitating it. But don't look to set
speed records. I use a container that I can tilt to
expose the board to see how much copper has been removed
so that I don't have to stick anything in to the solution
to grab the board to inspect it. That keeps the etching
solution in the container, rather than getting on a glove
or a tool. Once it is out of the container and onto a tool
or a glove, it is one short step from staining something.
And it *will* stain.

When etching is done, wash the board well with water to remove
any etching material. Then remove the toner, drill the holes,
and build away.

Ed
 
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DJ Delorie

Jan 1, 1970
0
ehsjr said:
I use a container that I can tilt to expose the board to see how
much copper has been removed so that I don't have to stick anything
in to the solution to grab the board to inspect it.

Last time I etched a board, I attached something to the board that
stuck up above the etchant. Thus, I had a handle that I couldn't
accidentally put down somewhere. It was a tiny board, I think I just
soldered a wire to an empty corner, but I suppose supergluing some
toothpicks along the edges would work too.
 
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