pass through headphone jack help needed

[[email protected]]

I have a Dell inspiron E1405 and the headphone jack was broken off the
motherboard. I either need to get a replacement jack or figure out
what solder points to jump in order to get the speakers to work. Here
is a picture of the motherboard and the solder points.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d186/derek5240/dell_headphone002_res-1.jpg


Does anyone know what solder points to connect in order to get the
speakers to work on the computer. Or does anyone know where to get a
replacement jack?

Thanks!

D

 

[jakdedert]

I have a Dell inspiron E1405 and the headphone jack was broken off the
motherboard. I either need to get a replacement jack or figure out
what solder points to jump in order to get the speakers to work. Here
is a picture of the motherboard and the solder points.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d186/derek5240/dell_headphone002_res-1.jpg


Does anyone know what solder points to connect in order to get the
speakers to work on the computer. Or does anyone know where to get a
replacement jack?

Thanks!

D

If there's anything left of the old jack, you should be able to trace it
out with a mini-TRS plug and a meter. If not, it should be available on
eBay...or a dead mb. I expect every Dell is pretty much the same,
though. I wish I'd seen this yesterday when I had my D400 apart for
speaker replacement.

Carefully probing the connections--if you can run the computer
disassembled--with a probe made from a set of headphones might tell you
which are the input pads. That would be three out of (what should be)
five: L-in, R-in, L-out, R-out & common. If you can get to the leads on
the speakers, you should be able to check continuity to there to find
which pads are the L-out & R-out and common....

Finally, a lot of Dell manuals are available on the web. Try to
download one...any one, as per the above (identical parts).

jak

 

[[email protected]]

If there's anything left of the old jack, you should be able to trace it
out with a mini-TRS plug and a meter.  If not, it should be available on
eBay...or a dead mb.  I expect every Dell is pretty much the same,
though.  I wish I'd seen this yesterday when I had my D400 apart for
speaker replacement.

Carefully probing the connections--if you can run the computer
disassembled--with a probe made from a set of headphones might tell you
which are the input pads.  That would be three out of (what should be)
five: L-in, R-in, L-out, R-out & common.  If you can get to the leads on
the speakers, you should be able to check continuity to there to find
which pads are the L-out & R-out and common....

Finally, a lot of Dell manuals are available on the web.  Try to
download one...any one, as per the above (identical parts).

jak- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

grounds being 1 6 7 8

#3 appears to be a dead end trace, I turned the motherboard over and
there is no trace leading away from it on either side of the board.

So that leaves us with 2, 4, and 5 with traces leading away from
them.
#4 has trace leading away on both sides of the board.


Hope this helps.


D

 

[[email protected]]

grounds being 1 6 7 8

#3 appears to be a dead end trace, I turned the motherboard over and
there is no trace leading away from it on either side of the board.

So that leaves us with 2, 4, and 5 with traces leading away from
them.
#4 has trace leading away on both sides of the board.

Hope this helps.

D- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes I can get to the leads on the speaker. There are four of them two
for the right and two for the left. I tried a staight continuity test
it gave me a stange reading not a 000 reading of continuity.

 

[jakdedert]

Yes I can get to the leads on the speaker. There are four of them two
for the right and two for the left. I tried a staight continuity test
it gave me a stange reading not a 000 reading of continuity.

You'll have two leads on each speaker. One of each is probably common.
The other two (red on my D400, but it only has one speaker) should
connect to the jack.

If it's not a low resistance, then possibly the switch on the jack
doesn't directly interrupt the signal to the speakers, but switches the
speakers off electronically.

I'd be surprised if that's the case, perhaps someone else might know.

Do you not have the original jack? Easiest would be to check it for
pinout--even if it's mangled. Personally, I'd not want to put it back
together without it...too much trouble to disassemble if you want to fix
it in the future. Jacks are available....

jak

 

[Baron]

Dave Plowman (News) Inscribed thus:

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d186/derek5240/dell_headphone002_res-1.jpg

Looks like a standard part to me so Mouser, etc?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1199

gives the connection details.

Hi Dave,
Unfortunately that jack is not the right one ! it has four pins in line
across the back.

The OP should check with the Dell manual for that machine.

 

[[email protected]]

Dave Plowman (News) Inscribed thus:



Hi Dave,
Unfortunately that jack is not the right one ! it has four pins in line
across the back.

The OP should check with the Dell manual for that machine.

The Foxconn jack next to it is the same one I need. Anyone know how to
find this jack?

Here is the manual for the computer:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins640m/en/om/YF920A01.pdf

 

[Mike S]

If there's anything left of the old jack, you should be able to trace it
out with a mini-TRS plug and a meter. If not, it should be available on
eBay...or a dead mb. I expect every Dell is pretty much the same,
though. I wish I'd seen this yesterday when I had my D400 apart for
speaker replacement.

Carefully probing the connections--if you can run the computer
disassembled--with a probe made from a set of headphones might tell you
which are the input pads. That would be three out of (what should be)
five: L-in, R-in, L-out, R-out & common. If you can get to the leads on
the speakers, you should be able to check continuity to there to find
which pads are the L-out & R-out and common....

Finally, a lot of Dell manuals are available on the web. Try to
download one...any one, as per the above (identical parts).

jak- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

grounds being 1 6 7 8

#3 appears to be a dead end trace, I turned the motherboard over and
there is no trace leading away from it on either side of the board.

So that leaves us with 2, 4, and 5 with traces leading away from
them.
#4 has trace leading away on both sides of the board.


Hope this helps.


D

#3 may or may not be a dead end trace. Many modern motherboards are mroe
than two layers (top and bottom).
Some boards havemany layers stacked together.
Example: My sony DCR-VX1000 camcorder has several boards that are 6 to 10
layers of traces.

 

[[email protected]]

The Foxconn jack next to it is the same one I need. Anyone know how to
find this jack?

Here is the manual for the computer:http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins640m/en/om/YF920A01.pdf- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Could this be a combined optical digital output/analog line out
connector?

Regards,

Ravi.

 

[Baron]

The Foxconn jack next to it is the same one I need. Anyone know how to
find this jack?

Here is the manual for the computer:

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins640m/en/om/YF920A01.pdf

Have you tried "Foxcon" ?

<http://www.foxconn.com/NWInG/Search...&P_Family=Audio+Jack+Connector&searchTypeID=1>

Watch for line wrap.

 

[[email protected]]

Could this be a combined optical digital output/analog line out
connector?

Regards,

    Ravi.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Could be. I will paypal $2 to someone for a solution or a place to buy
the correct jack.

D

 

[[email protected]]

Could be. I will paypal $2 to someone for a solution or a place to buy
the correct jack.

D- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes I browsed there this morning, didn't see the jack I needed
though...
D

 

[Dave W]

I have a Dell inspiron E1405 and the headphone jack was broken off the
motherboard. I either need to get a replacement jack or figure out
what solder points to jump in order to get the speakers to work. Here
is a picture of the motherboard and the solder points.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d186/derek5240/dell_headphone002_re...

Does anyone know what solder points to connect in order to get the
speakers to work on the computer. Or does anyone know where to get a
replacement jack?

Thanks!

D

Help is here! I have just repaired an HP Pavilion N5412 laptop with an
identical socket that had been smashed. The audio to the socket is
separate to the speakers. Your pin 2 goes to the plug's ring, pin 5
goes to the tip, and ground pin 7 is common. Pin 3 makes contact with
pin 5 when the plug is absent. Pins 1 and 4 are normally closed, but
are open when the plug is inserted. Pin 4 goes to a logic gate pulled
up to 5V via 100K, and mutes the speakers when the plug is inserted.
There is a screening cover over the contacts, fixed by pins 6 and 8.

To make your speakers work, all you have to do is join pin 4 to
ground.

Here in Surrey, UK, the only high street shop that has electronics
components is Maplins. They have two types of 3mm stereo socket,
different layouts but having only 5 pins - tip, ring, & common, plus 2
pins that make contact with the tip and ring pins when the plug is
absent. They are obviously intended for circuits that feed headphones
by breaking the speaker feeds, and don't fit your board.

In my case the socket was mounted on a separate board, so I used a
piece of breadboard to mount the Maplin socket. As the tip and ring
are fed via isolating capacitors to avoid putting DC on the 30 ohm
headphones, I put 330 ohm resistors on the tip and ring pins to
ground, to keep these pins at ground in the absence of a plug. I then
connected a 6K8 resistor between one of the pins that make contact
when the plug is absent, and the line to the logic gate. When the plug
is absent the gate is pulled down via 6K8 and 330R, and when the plug
is inserted the pull-down is disconnected, muting the speakers.

This worked, but gave trouble because audio peaks get to the muting
logic and break up the speaker sound. To get round this I added a
0.1uF capacitor between the logic line and ground, to reduce the audio
getting to the logic via the 6K8. However when powering up the
computer, or inserting/removing the headphones, a very short squeak is
produced. This is because the logic voltage rises slowly owing to the
capacitor, and there is instability at the switching threshold. The
capacitor value was a compromise between length of squeak and stopping
speaker distortion.

My solution is obviously not as good as finding a proper socket.

Dave W

 

[bz]

If it's not a low resistance, then possibly the switch on the jack
doesn't directly interrupt the signal to the speakers, but switches the
speakers off electronically.

I'd be surprised if that's the case, perhaps someone else might know.

I don't know in this particular case but did 'fight' a problem with a
laptop that I thought was due to a bad headphone connection.
Even changed the motherboard. Didn't fix the problem.

Turned out to be software.

The danged OS 'beep' was driving me crazy. It would come out of the
computer, LOUD, even when I disabled the speaker and turned volume all the
way down. On previous laptops I had stuck a 'dummy' plug in the speaker
jack to kill the beep but that didn't work on this one.

The 'beep' driver had to be disabled to kill the beep on that particular
model because the software routes beep to the speakers even if the
headphones are plugged in. 'Ordinary audio' would go the the phones rather
than the speaker but the beep still went to the speaker.

So, yes, there are computers that use software to control where sound goes.







--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

[email protected] remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[[email protected]]

Help is here! I have just repaired an HP Pavilion N5412 laptop with an
identical socket that had been smashed. The audio to the socket is
separate to the speakers. Your pin 2 goes to the plug's ring, pin 5
goes to the tip, and ground pin 7 is common. Pin 3 makes contact with
pin 5 when the plug is absent. Pins 1 and 4 are normally closed, but
are open when the plug is inserted. Pin 4 goes to a logic gate pulled
up to 5V via 100K, and mutes the speakers when the plug is inserted.
There is a screening cover over the contacts, fixed by pins 6 and 8.

To make your speakers work, all you have to do is join pin 4 to
ground.

Here in Surrey, UK, the only high street shop that has electronics
components is Maplins. They have two types of 3mm stereo socket,
different layouts but having only 5 pins - tip, ring, & common, plus 2
pins that make contact with the tip and ring pins when the plug is
absent. They are obviously intended for circuits that feed headphones
by breaking the speaker feeds, and don't fit your board.

In my case the socket was mounted on a separate board, so I used a
piece of breadboard to mount the Maplin socket. As the tip and ring
are fed via isolating capacitors to avoid putting DC on the 30 ohm
headphones, I put 330 ohm resistors on the tip and ring pins to
ground, to keep these pins at ground in the absence of a plug. I then
connected a 6K8 resistor between one of the pins that make contact
when the plug is absent, and the line to the logic gate. When the plug
is absent the gate is pulled down via 6K8 and 330R, and when the plug
is inserted the pull-down is disconnected, muting the speakers.

This worked, but gave trouble because audio peaks get to the muting
logic and break up the speaker sound. To get round this I added a
0.1uF capacitor between the logic line and ground, to reduce the audio
getting to the logic via the 6K8. However when powering up the
computer, or inserting/removing the headphones, a very short squeak is
produced. This is because the logic voltage rises slowly owing to the
capacitor, and there is instability at the switching threshold. The
capacitor value was a compromise between length of squeak and stopping
speaker distortion.

My solution is obviously not as good as finding a proper socket.

Dave W

Wow... You are the man. Finding the proper socket seems like finding a
needle in a haystack. I think I will connect pins 1 and 4 and be done
with it. As long as i have some sound, that is what matters. If
everything goes good i will paypal you. Just email me your paypal
address and i will get it to you.

thanks again.

D

 

[[email protected]]

Wow... You are the man. Finding the proper socket seems like finding a
needle in a haystack. I think I will connect pins 1 and 4 and be done
with it. As long as i have some sound, that is what matters. If
everything goes good i will paypal you. Just email me your paypal
address and i will get it to you.

thanks again.

D- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So 1 and 4 need to be connected but you mention 3 and 5 also are
connected when the plug is absent. Do I need to connect 3 and 5 or
just 1 and 4?

thanks!

 

[[email protected]]

So 1 and 4 need to be connected but you mention 3 and 5 also are
connected when the plug is absent. Do I need to connect 3 and 5  or
just 1 and 4?

thanks!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I hooked up pins 1 and 4 and I now have sound!

Dave W is the winner with the solution. Any "Fixit" websites want to
grab my picture and the contents of this post feel free to do it.

Dave, send me your paypal and I will send you the $2.

thanks again!

D

 

[Dave W]

I hooked up pins 1 and 4 and I now have sound!

Dave W is the winner with the solution. Any "Fixit" websites want to
grab my picture and the contents of this post feel free to do it.

Dave, send me your paypal and I will send you the $2.

thanks again!

dd5,

No need to reward me - my reward is knowing that my efforts have
helped someone else as well as me.

I have looked for a proper socket on several suppliers including
Farnell and Digi-Key without success. Although I did find a Schurter
one that is panel mounted, with three contacts to tip, ring and
sleeve, that make contact to three other contacts in the absence of
the plug. The one that the sleeve contact contacts could be connected
to the logic, so that it is ground without the plug and open circuit
when the plug is in. However the socket is probably too big to fit in
the space.

Regards,
Dave W