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Park/Neutral switch

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by ., Jan 23, 2004.

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  1. .

    . Guest

    I was working on a Jeep the other day that would not turn over when the
    ignition switch was turned. It turned out to be the park/neutral switch. The
    first thing I noticed was that the grease inside the switch was quite tacky
    or sticky. So much so that two spring loaded contacts were sticking and
    wouldn't move back after being pushed in slightly. The switch has six screws
    holding it together and costs around $210 to replace. The contacts have been
    cleaned and I'm trying to find a suitable lubricant to replace the lubricant
    that was in it.
    ..
    I've noticed that white lithium grease will turn tacky or sticky, but don't
    know why. I've talked to a couple of different mechanics and they recommend
    an anti-seize/lubricant compound, although when asked, they couldn't tell me
    if the anti-seize compound is suitable for electrical type contacts inside
    the switch.

    Is there a grease that is stable and suitable for lubricating moving parts
    in a switch?

    Any information on this would be greatly appreciated.

    Ken
     
  2. Franc Zabkar

    Franc Zabkar Guest

  3. Darrin

    Darrin Guest

    How about a silicone based lube.
    i use a product called Super Lube.
    works great for keeping moisture out
    of the spark plug boot. helps the cable
    come off easy next time... inside the
    boot stays like a gel after 25000 miles.

    I would say no to an anti seize. Many contain lead or copper or tin.
    plus, it does become dry.
     
  4. TL Fort

    TL Fort Guest

    I would clean it good and use the white lube that comes in the tub.
    Don't use the spray. It's the same lube that the manufacturers use in
    taillight sockets. You need to be careful some lube can attack the
    plastic hsg's.

    Tracy
     
  5. Jim Adney

    Jim Adney Guest

    Most all greases will eventually thicken because they consist of a
    mizture of oil and a thickener which is chemically called a "soap."
    Over time the oil separates out, which is exactly what it is supposed
    to do to lubricate, since the soap thickener has no lubricating value.
    The rate of separation varies widely as the viscosity of the oil and
    the soap are changed. This is one of the main things that is changed
    to make greases for different applications.

    I would not use an antiseize, because most of these contain some form
    of metal particles which might lead to an unintended connection when
    the Jeep was in gear.

    I see no reason why you should not just take the neutral safety switch
    apart, clean out the old grease, and put in some fresh grease. Choose
    a rather heavy grease, as that will separate more slowly.

    -
     
  6. JohnAce

    JohnAce Guest

    Where is this located? Under the Jeep on the side of the tranny? I had this
    problem and it didn't happen all the time. I ended up repalceing the starter(
    which I know wasn't hte problem) and I repalced the batter Terminals and so far
    no problem But not sure enough.
     
  7. Dave Cole

    Dave Cole Guest

    We use SL-4 made by Standard Motor Products, available at parts houses,
    but almost any silicone dielectric grease will work. Don't use too much of
    anythhing: just a good coating.
    Dave Cole
     
  8. .

    . Guest

    The switch is located on the right side (passenger side) of the
    transmission. I initially thought there may be a bad connection at the +
    battery terminal too. But I supplied +12V to the starter solenoid and the
    jeep started up.

    Ken
     
  9. Guest


    FYI, this is a very common problem. When I cleaned the NSS on my
    wifes ZJ (backup lights stopped working), I used silicon dielectric
    grease. I also used some sandpaper to clean up the traces and smooth
    out a few worn grooves.


    -Chris
     
  10. .

    . Guest

    Where did you purchase the grease? How long has it been since you repaired
    it?

    Ken
     
  11. Jim Adney

    Jim Adney Guest

    It's great stuff in the right application, but I think in a place
    where it is exposed to tiny sparks every time the switch is opened it
    will break down into other silicone compounds which would be worse (as
    in abrasive) than carbon breakdown products.

    -
     
  12. Guest


    I have a big tube of Dow Corning silicone grease, normally meant for
    electrical contacts, o-rings, etc. It's clear (semi cloudy I guess),
    the same consistency as a typical wheel bearing grease, but
    non-conductive. Don't recall where I got it, but you can find
    something similar at an auto store or a hardware store.

    I repaired the NSS about 3 years ago.

    -Chris
     
  13. .

    . Guest

    Thanks. Three years sounds encouraging.

    Ken
     
  14. .

    . Guest

    Is there a product that you recommend that can be purchased at a car parts
    store?

    Ken
     
  15. Jim Adney

    Jim Adney Guest

    Unless you already have some, just go and buy a very small container
    of the heaviest grease they have. Wheel bearing grease, for example. I
    don't think the choice is too important. Just buy a small amount of
    something cheap.

    -
     
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