Panelmount switches: how many ONs and OFFs?

[qmu]

Hi all,
I have some troubles with an electrical plant and I have to turn
electricity on and off many times per day from a C16 breaker +
differential breaker (I hope the English terms are correct), panelmount,
220V. How many ups and downs is such a thing expected to withstand?

Is it better to trip it down with the differential breaker test-button
or with a finger?

Alternatively, I could trip this electrical counter
http://show.simpload.com/11104918410fbcab0.jpeg?server=s3
but I would prefer the C16/differential because it is mine. Unless you
tell me that this counter is expected to withstand really many more ons
and offs.

Thanks in advance

 

[Twayne]

Hi all,

I have some troubles with an electrical plant and I have to turn
electricity on and off many times per day from a C16 breaker +
differential breaker (I hope the English terms are correct),
panelmount, 220V. How many ups and downs is such a thing expected to
withstand?
Is it better to trip it down with the differential breaker test-button
or with a finger?

I doubt there would be any difference but have no direct experience that
way.

Alternatively, I could trip this electrical counter
http://show.simpload.com/11104918410fbcab0.jpeg?server=s3
but I would prefer the C16/differential because it is mine. Unless you
tell me that this counter is expected to withstand really many more
ons and offs.

Thanks in advance

Normally, not many w/r to using it as an on/off switch if it isn't
designed to do so normally. I can't get my head around exactly what you
have but I assume it has to have a breaker-like action to it. That is
always advised against. Unless you have a breaker made spefically to
withstand that kind of use, you should find another way. The bimetal
strengths change due to the stress-activity and the contact surfaces
wear (arc) and corrode very quickly under constant switching conditions.
With a run of the mill breaker, you may get anywhere from one or two
more switches with it to a month or more before it starts to run into
false-overload trips, heating issues, even in some very seldom occurring
instances, a failure to trip until the I gets substantially above the
rated current (contact welding, in other words).
Based on the lack of information given, you would have to check with
the mfg of the part. That's a much better source than a newsgroup
anyway, where each poster, including me quite often, feels that their
own experiences are "typical".

HTH

 

[qmu]

Normally, not many w/r to using it as an on/off switch if it isn't
designed to do so normally. ... ... ...

Thank you for your really thorough reply.

The C 16A + differential breaker I have is an ABB DS642
It is roughly similar to the one in the first picture here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circuit_breaker
except that I can't see the test button in the picture. The
"differential" thing I was talking about was probably a mistaken term,
now I understand that the english name is "Earth leakage circuit
breaker" (ELCB), so mine would be a "C-curve 16A + ELCB breaker".

Today I went around on the Internet looking for the specifications of my
breaker, as you suggested. I couldn't find them for that breaker
exactly, however many breakers of that class seem to indicate that they
have "mechanical (service) life" of 20,000 operations, and an electrical
service life of 10,000 operations.

E.g. here:
http://www02.abb.com/global/inabb/i...19d0016f158/$file/Line+Protection+Devices.pdf

Now I don't understand anything anymore.
Is the "service life" the value I am looking for, or is it something else?
Do you think it is overstated?

What is the difference of mechanical vs electrical service life? Am I
correct saying that if I am pressing the test button or going over 16A
and it trips, that is electrical, while if I pull it down with a finger
that is mechanical?

Thanks for your help

 

[qmu]

The bimetal
strengths change due to the stress-activity and the contact surfaces
wear (arc) and corrode very quickly under constant switching conditions.

This is useful information
Now I am switching it off with the finger. And before doing that I turn
off every electrical load in the house, so that current does not pass
through the thermomagnetic switch while I am switching it off or on. In
this way there should be no spark...
Thank you