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Optima burglar alarm fault

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by sarahjclifton, Aug 15, 2009.

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  1. sarahjclifton

    sarahjclifton

    1
    0
    Aug 15, 2009
    We have an Optima burgular alarm system fitted in our house. For some reason all of the lights are lit on the control panel and none of the numerical keys work. We therefore cannot set the system and don't know how to rectify the problem.
    This problem occurred following a brief power cut although we have had several power losses in the past after which no problems have occurred.
    There is a battery backup in the system and I am wondering whether it needs replacing? The system is nearly 10 years old and the battery has never been replaced.
    Any advice would be gratefully received!
     
  2. Lenp

    Lenp

    24
    0
    Sep 8, 2009
    I would suggest that you disconnect the main power and battery. Check the battery for proper volage,probably 6 or 12 volts, under some load like a lamp. At 10 years age it is probably bad. Rather than buy a new replacement substitute another battery, even dry cells of the correct voltage should work for the test, and power the system back up. The microprocessor may have had a problem due to low votage. Many systems need the internal battrery for power supply regulation and filtering. If that doesn't work consider upgrading the control unit.
    Good luck,
    Len
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2009
  3. lloyd11

    lloyd11

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    0
    Apr 25, 2010
    try ukpanels.com all the manuals are free & there are alarm engineers online that can help you
     
  4. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

    432
    132
    Jun 20, 2010
    Lloyd11's advice is good: Look for the user and installation manual.

    I'm not familiar with Optima panels, but I have a lot of experience with alarm systems and batteries employed in most burglar alarm systems. Most by far use a sealed lead-surphuric acid rechargable battery and, no, you cannot substitute it with a 12-Volt dry cell battery for a test. Assuming it's a "12 Volt" battery, a lead-acid battery is actually 2.2 volts per cell fully charged under light load. A nominal "12-Volt" lead-acid battery actually reads closer to 13.2 volts fresh off the charger, at light load. A battery reading of 12V would make most panels read a low-battery trouble condition, and could cause strange symptoms. If you're going to try a test with dry cells, make sure you have a 13.5 volt battery connected--assuming your panel battery is lead-acid and rated as nominal 12Volts.

    The battery may not be the cause of your problem, but after 10 years it definitely needs to be changed. It's generally recommended to change them every five years.
     
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