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Older Shunt Gear Motor and dc controller

Discussion in 'Sensors and Actuators' started by bob63el, Oct 27, 2013.

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  1. bob63el

    bob63el

    1
    0
    Oct 26, 2013
    Hello. This is my first post. I'm a newbie to electronics and could use some assistance.

    I have a project I am working on and it involves an old Bodine Gear motor I purchased on Ebay. The motor is rated at 115V DC .33 Amp 1/50HP Type NSH-12RH. Bodine tells me it is one of their older Shunt Wound DC Motors. I purchased a controller but it does not work. The controller is described as:

    "This controller applies PWM to adjust DC motor speed, with short-cut protection, suitable for motor reversing frequently. And the armature voltage 0-110V continuously adjustable, so the speed controlling is high effectively. Thanks for the high frequency PWM, this controller will work well in low speed. This controller can be matched with: SZ series server motor, ZYT permanent magnet motor, J-SZ(ZYT) motor, KC motor.

    The controller sounds like its intended for a Permanent Magnet motor. The seller of the controller believed it would work as long as the wattage of the motor was under 450W. I think he may have been wrong.

    I the used an ohm meter to determine which of the 4 wires went to the armature and found that the blue pair had the lower resistance. When wired up the motor did make a small buzzing sound against the 4.7K pot used to control the motor speed. But did not work.

    Either;
    1) my motor is shot
    2) wrong wiring on the controller
    3) wrong type of controller.

    I need an education on Shunt motors vs PM motors. Thank you in advance.
     
  2. duke37

    duke37

    5,364
    771
    Jan 9, 2011
    A permanent magnet motor uses a permanent magnet (surprise, surprise) to supply the static magnetic field.

    A shunt motor uses a winding to make an electromagnet. No field current, no magnet, no torque, no speed.
    Find the two wires which feed the field, they may have a resistance of 1k or so and provide them with DC., This can be done using a bridge rectifier from 115V. Calculate the dissipation and put a small fuse in the circuit. You could use a light bulb in series for initial tests to stop things going BANG.

    The controller should be connected to feed the armature. There will be problems if the two pairs of wires have a common connection.

    Make sure that you are working safely.
     
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