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No Audio on Vizio Sound Bar

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by itbrti, May 5, 2017.

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  1. itbrti

    itbrti

    2
    2
    May 5, 2017
    Hi Everyone! I have a Vizio sound bar (Model No: S2920w-CO, out of warranty) that is refusing to output any sound. I've had it for a few years, and it's been in storage for the past four months. When I unpacked it and tried to pair it with my phone, the phone connects, the sound bar lights up indicating a connection, but no audio is heard. The same goes with trying to connect with a 3.5mm aux cable directly to my Macbook. I've looked at the board, and nothing looks blown or corroded.

    Wondering if anyone had any insight or had similar issues and how it may be fixed. I tried contacting Vizio support regarding the issue, and they referred me to their three 3rd party sites, but I couldn't find any parts for that specific model.

    Thanks everyone!

    Photo May 05, 10 37 19 AM.jpg Photo May 05, 10 37 43 AM.jpg
     
    moevillarreal likes this.
  2. KilgoreCemetery

    KilgoreCemetery

    254
    13
    Apr 12, 2017
    Are you testing with a configuration that has worked in the past? I.E. has that exact phone worked correctly with that exact sound bar in the past? Also, have you tried the standard Vizio troubleshooting here?
     
    moevillarreal likes this.
  3. itbrti

    itbrti

    2
    2
    May 5, 2017
    Hi KilgoreCemetery, I've used both my phone and laptop's Bluetooth as well as 3.5mm attached to my MacBook. I've looked at the Vizio troubleshooting as well, with no luck. Thanks for the suggestions!
     
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  4. moevillarreal

    moevillarreal

    5
    0
    May 27, 2021
    hey there im sorry for the problem you having i dont know ur fix but i was wondering if you could help me fix my problem honestly just need a pic of the copacitorrs between the top plugs and right of it
     
  5. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    3,294
    1,393
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir moe vi l l l l l l l l l l l ar r r r r r r r r r r r r r eal . . . . .

    Use this HOT LINK and then click on it . . . if not already magged up to its max.

    https://www.electronicspoint.com/forums/attachments/photo-may-05-10-37-19-am-jpg.33811/

    So as best as I can now interpret your directions and possible situation.

    Direction wise . . .

    White two pin mini male connector and then to its right taupe 5 pin mini male connector and to its right a larger white 3 pin mini connector then a spaced apart taupe 6 pin mini connector to far right.
    Is this correct ?
    Then can we assume that now the points of prime interest are the central GREEN E-cap and the two slant mounted GREEN and BLACK cased E-caps.

    Situation wise . . .

    So, now, as I interpret that, you pulled the units and forgot to note polarity of install for the new units.
    Or . . . that you have received a unit with these caps already completely pulled off from the board ?
    Therefore . . . you know neither their capacitances or their working voltages.

    If being polarity of lead install . . .this present pic already tells you that the GREENS have their negative leads to the left, while the black has its negative to the right.

    Waiting to hear from you . . . if you need cap and voltage ratings . . . . . . as I have ab-so-root-ley no idea other than 47-100-220 ufd a >>> 5VDC.

    73's de Edd . . . . .

    upload_2021-5-28_1-6-38.png
    .
     
  6. moevillarreal

    moevillarreal

    5
    0
    May 27, 2021
    Yes the 2 green ones are what I need to find out what they are naught a speaker with both blown to the point it's like a brown fuzzed teddy exploded I'm trying to fix it now. I'm trying to post a pic to show but it's not letting me
     
  7. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    3,294
    1,393
    Aug 21, 2015
    Oh TAY !
    My educated estimation is that the two white plugs at the far left of the chassis feed the speakers.

    As far as the the center large white male 3 pin plug, the left pin must be at the full Vcc potential of the board and thus that nearby GREEN E- cap to be filtered / decoupled.
    And that the connectors other sides terminal is going to one of the leads of the other GREEN E- capacitor on a +5VDC supply line to be filtered / decoupled.

    Go to the speakers and see if they were gutsy enough to have printed any wattage specs on their cases.
    Looking around the board for parts used and their functions, I might now think that the AUDIO OUTPUT function is being at left . . . . center of the board.
    Looks like a possible U1 identifier near its pin 1# divot marker and it being a 36 pin unit.
    With that IC being a " SOOPER DOOPER CHIPEROO " with its analog to digital conversion and then class D POWER amplification and then a final conversion back to analog power and a final digital artifact / trash filtering with the adjunct brownish grey monolith block ceramic capacitors and ferrite inductors in its peripheral area and then going over to couple right-left channels power analog audio out into the two WHITE, two pin connectors then . . .ONWARD . . . into the shredded speakers.

    Get the parts Identifier from that left center I.C. , so we can then research its data sheet to be able to positively confirm its used function and pin outs.

    Make a re-read from earlier . . . due to my later editing . . .

    73's de Edd . . . . .

    upload_2021-5-28_3-58-5.png
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2021
  8. moevillarreal

    moevillarreal

    5
    0
    May 27, 2021
    im sorry im new to repairs so most of that went over my head. all i now is i need to find out what capacitors i need for the 2 green explained and i think i might be able to solder em in but id have to find the right way to face them. For me pictures help best.
     
  9. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    3,294
    1,393
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Moe . . . . .

    O.K maybe I am just needing more in depth detail of your . . . . .

    " are naught a speaker with both blown to the point it's like a brown fuzzed teddy exploded "

    As I was interpreting that above statement, I perceived of the speakers being the ones "fuzzed".
    Since those TWO green E-caps are being the two initial input filters, receiving DC power from the separate switch mode power supply on another board to the side. The large 3 pin white connector and its wiring interconnects them.

    JUST replacing those two " exploded ? "' E-caps isn't going to do diddly "merde" for the apparent SERIOUS over powering / voltage subjected to them . . . . from what must be a dysfunctional main power supply.

    Aren't the E- can tops / cases still around, to be able to read their plastic covers markings ?

    If the two caps are being the fuzzies you referred to, I am expecting this type of scene . . . .

    [​IMG]

    Which should still relate to their having receiving too high of ripple voltage or too much voltage from the units power supply.

    Define the . . . . . are naught a speaker . . . . do they seem to be good ?

    73's de Edd . . . . .

    .
     
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  10. moevillarreal

    moevillarreal

    5
    0
    May 27, 2021
    yes thats exactly what happened but no theres no plastic arround at all anymore. and i meant i bought a speaker sorry was typing on my phone
     
  11. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    3,294
    1,393
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Moe . . . . .

    i meant i bought a speaker

    ¿ Does . . . that . . . speaker relate to it being used for either of the two speakers that the soundbar uses ?

    Since I'm basically NOT knowing NUTTIN' here . . . . in relating to your units time of failure, was it just working totally normally one day and then the next time that you TURNED it on, it doesn't work for you ?

    I want to weed out if this is not just being a new out in the street curb find or a pig in a poke garage find sale item, found in this current state, that you are just now attempting to fix..

    If this unit is being your originally purchased and a working unit and was last working, and then at your next attempt of use, it no workee, there is a dual possibility.
    One, is being that you turned on the unit and then there was the EASILY heard BANG- BANG of the two caps EXPLODING .
    But . . . BUT . . . BUT . . . there is ALSO a like possibility, that this BIG BANG-BANG happened when you were not even home, because I FULLY think that this units, earlier mentioned, power supply section, circuit board, runs in standby power mode 24 hrs a day and only REALLY turns on to full power with your command from the units frontal power pushbutton or remote control . So its fuse may now be blown.

    NEXT HOW DID THOSE TWO E-caps, EACH BEING IN SEPARATE SUPPLY LOOPS, GET SUCH A TREMENDOUS JOLT TO TOTALLY DESTROY THEM ?

    S0 . . . what is your power line voltage 120 or 220 VAC ?
    Have you had any power outages or other electrical items / lamps failures in the household . . . . or had any close lightning bolt hits to your houses AC line power pole ?

    Your sole circuit board portion being involved with now, is not associated with causing . . . .BOTH . . .of your two GREEN E-caps to explode.

    FUNCTIONALITY . . .

    The far right GREEN E-cap cap is associated with initially filtering that boards +5VDC logic supply works. ( There is even a possiblity of it then branching off and a creating of sub 3.3 and 1.8 V supplies. )

    The central GREEN E-cap is associated with a higher voltage level main supply, principally associated with the Class D power amplifier portion.

    ADDITIONALLY
    . . . and INITIALLY . . . . there is being heavy filtering being provided for those supplies on the output section of the switch mode power supply board which feeds into this board.

    Take a look around . . . at all of this boards mid section, particularly ( the just off center) cluster of large E-caps and the few larger peripheral ones, then find the largest voltage rated one, and figure that to be the safe voltage level choice for that left GREEN E-cap, which is not going to be at any higher than that voltage level.
    With the GREEN right E-cap for the 5VDC supply we might expect it to be a 10 or 15 VDC rating.
    Also . . .repeating my earlier second request . . . get the ID from the top of that IC1? . . . 36 pinner . . .so its data can be researched for its nominal operating voltage level . . . also the second request for the possibility of a wattage spec being marked on the speakers.
    We need to educate a guess on the potential of the voltgae and current requirement of the most power hungry portion on that board . . . . the audio output . section . . if so cranked up.

    DOINGITTOIT . . . . .

    Do you have 60-90w*** soldering iron + rosin fluxed 60-40 electrical solder and experience making joints and a digital DVM or analog unit for voltage-current-ohms analysis ?

    (*** Better, an adequate irons heat to take on heat sinking and get right up to solder-temp and then GETAWAY IN A HURRY. . . . .rather than the inadequate heat of a 40 or so watt unit that is interim burning up the board/components in TRYING to get up to a solder flow temperature ! )

    Thaaaaaaaassit . . .


    73's de Edd. . . . .

    upload_2021-5-31_23-5-49.png
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  12. moevillarreal

    moevillarreal

    5
    0
    May 27, 2021
    Bought it broken opened it to see y it didn't worked and saw the 2 I'll try to reread everything said to get a better understanding then I'll see what we can do
     
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