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nichrome wire insulation

D

D from BC

Jan 1, 1970
0
no, I need the temp of the heating element be no higher than ~50C.

Phil, would please leave the subject line alone, eh?

An insane idea would be to solder together lots chip resistors to make
a pipe 3D structure with the max surface area. Each resistor can
contribute a little heat.
Would be fun to see. Send a picture if you do :)

/ // / /
_/ _//_/ / /
/ \/ \/ \/ /
\_/\_/\_/ /
/ \/ \/ \/
\_/\_/\_/


D from BC
British Columbia
Canada.
 
D

Dave Platt

Jan 1, 1970
0
You might look for "water glass". It's a silicon compound (???) that's
water soluble.

Sodium silicate.

I suspect that it might be a bit too brittle to use in this
application, though, if long-term reliability is a concern.
 
J

Jim Flanagan

Jan 1, 1970
0
Phil said:
** I have already described how to do that ( with a link to the needed
power resistors) with complete safety.

LEARN to READ - you

FUCKING

OVERSNIPPING

GOOGLE GROPING

PITA !!!




........ Phil

Why, oh why does this guy continue to exist on this group? He speaks of
newsgroup etiquette, but he totally ignores common courtesy.
 
J

Jim Thompson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Why, oh why does this guy continue to exist on this group? He speaks of
newsgroup etiquette, but he totally ignores common courtesy.

He only exists if you reply to his posts. Killfile him and ignore
anyone who responds to him... ostracize him from the group.

...Jim Thompson
 
F

Fred Bloggs

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jim said:
Why, oh why does this guy continue to exist on this group? He speaks of
newsgroup etiquette, but he totally ignores common courtesy.

FU and your damned courtesy, ya' friggin fruit. Phil is very helpful at
times and not nearly the disruption as some idiots with their weather
reports and assorted OT threads invariably comprised of braindead
content, or their whining about courtesy for example.
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jim Flanagan wrote:

FU and your damned courtesy, ya' friggin fruit. Phil is very helpful at
times and not nearly the disruption as some idiots with their weather
reports and assorted OT threads invariably comprised of braindead
content, or their whining about courtesy for example.
 
J

John Larkin

Jan 1, 1970
0
FU and your damned courtesy, ya' friggin fruit. Phil is very helpful at
times and not nearly the disruption as some idiots with their weather
reports and assorted OT threads invariably comprised of braindead
content, or their whining about courtesy for example.

Fred and Phyllis are soul mates.

John
 
J

Jim Flanagan

Jan 1, 1970
0
Fred said:
FU and your damned courtesy, ya' friggin fruit. Phil is very helpful at
times and not nearly the disruption as some idiots with their weather
reports and assorted OT threads invariably comprised of braindead
content, or their whining about courtesy for example.
Oh my, there is more than one!? Who would have thought? Guess I'll add
another to my kill file list. Thanks for pointing yourself out.
 
B

Barry Lennox

Jan 1, 1970
0
I am building a compact air heater as a hobby project where the air is
blown between fine fins of several aluminum heat sinks. The
temperature needs to be raised from ~0C to ~37C and needs to handle
air flows of up to ~100 L/min. I did an envelope calculation taking
into account heat capacity of dry air, and it appears that I would
need ~100W, 300W to be safe, for that.

So I want to run a nichrome wire in a spiral pattern along the surface
of the aluminum heat sinks. But wouldn't that cause a short? Can I get
insulated nichrome which would conduct heat, but not conduct
electricity? Any suggestions?

I made a similar device a number of years ago, and simply clamped
about 8 x 10watt WW resistors (the "sand/cement" square types, with
thermal grease) between two heat sinks. At one end I mounted a 5"
muffin fan. It all worked very well, and can see no reason why it
should not scale nicely to about 200-300 W

Nichrome wire is a PITA to fiddle with.

Barry
 
R

Ross Herbert

Jan 1, 1970
0
On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 15:03:47 -0800 (PST), [email protected] wrote:

:
:> Why use a heat sink? The nichrome will heat air all by itself.
:>
:> John
:
:It will, but I wanted to increase the surface contact area.


The best way to obtain "insulated" nichrome wire is to buy resistors with it in.
http://www.arcol.co.uk/product-range/product-series.php?cid=3

It would be far simpler and more effective to mount a string of series or
series-parallel heat sink mount resistors than to try to attach insulated
nichrome wire to a heatsink.
 
T

Tom Bruhns

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thank you, Tom,

What I have described probably indeed looks like a hairdrier. However,
hairdriers quickly heat air in a small package because of heating the
wire to a very hot temperature (don't know how hot, but the wire glows
with infrared). In my case, I want to avoid using high localized
temperatures due to safety concerns. So the idea was to re-distribute
the heat over a large surface, and thus being able to use lower
temperatures.

OK, there's some sense to that, and a heatsink is a reasonable way to
spread the heat over a large area. Especially if you already have the
heatsink, it would probably be easiest to just mount some resistors to
it. As I mentioned before, Caddock make some nice ones that mount
just like power semiconductors, using a single mounting hole. You can
probably find some surplus resistors of the sort in a finned aluminum
housing that will mount easily to a heat sink using two holes: e.g.,
ebay item 160205759878. You can sometimes find stuff at surplus
places like www.herbach.com: e.g. the immersion heating element under
the "heating and cooling devices" tab that could be useful. In any
event, using parts like this would be MUCH easier than trying to mount
nichrome wire to a heatsink. You CAN get insulated resistance wire,
but it's probably going to be expensive and will certainly be messy to
deal with.

Cheers,
Tom
 
M

Mike

Jan 1, 1970
0

^ That's apparently the end view.

Here's the side view: ---------------------

The insulation is perforated, of course, to allow better heat transfer.

-- Mike --
 
J

Jim Thompson

Jan 1, 1970
0
^ That's apparently the end view.

Here's the side view: ---------------------

The insulation is perforated, of course, to allow better heat transfer.

-- Mike --

Most hair dryers simply wind bare Nichrome on a mica form.

...Jim Thompson
 
M

Mike

Jan 1, 1970
0
Most hair dryers simply wind bare Nichrome on a mica form.

...Jim Thompson

Okay, okay... striiiiiiip... striiiiiiip. Alright, here's the new side
view: _________________

You'll recognize immediately that this is uninsulated nichrome, and it's
ready for use. Simply print this page, cut out the wire, wrap around the
mica form of your choice, and crimp to the electrical connection at both
ends. If you need more wire, print the page twice and staple the wire
sections together.

-- Mike --
 
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