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Need High Candlepower Beam

B

BeeJ

Jan 1, 1970
0
Suggestions on acquiring or building a High Candlepower Beam
Input: 12VDC
Output: Best I can get.

I have seen some "rated" at 3 million candlepower; is that for real?
Are there any brighter?
 
J

Jamie

Jan 1, 1970
0
BeeJ said:
Suggestions on acquiring or building a High Candlepower Beam
Input: 12VDC
Output: Best I can get.

I have seen some "rated" at 3 million candlepower; is that for real?
Are there any brighter?
arc lamps

Jamie
 
G

gregz

Jan 1, 1970
0
BeeJ said:
Suggestions on acquiring or building a High Candlepower Beam
Input: 12VDC
Output: Best I can get.

I have seen some "rated" at 3 million candlepower; is that for real?
Are there any brighter?

The HID's advertise 15 million. Simple 10 watt halogen should easily get 3
million.
How they get their ratings seem to be a mystery. All depends on spot size.
My 500 lumen flashlight is amazingly bright.

Greg
 
B

Bill Sloman

Jan 1, 1970
0
Suggestions on acquiring or building a High Candlepower Beam

Input: 12VDC
Output: Best I can get.

I have seen some "rated" at 3 million candlepower; is that for real?
Are there any brighter?

Laser beams are "brighter" in the sense that you get more photons per square millimetre in the focal spot, but they won't give you 3x10^6 candlepower.

You are thinking of a Xenon short arc lamp. Here's a useful tutorial.

http://zeiss-campus.magnet.fsu.edu/articles/lightsources/xenonarc.html

A 12V DC supply won't hack it. You need a 20 to 30kV spark to start the arc, which initially drops a couple of hundred volts for a few microseconds asit is first sustained as a glow discharge before it gets the tungsten electrodes hot enough for the arc mechanism to take over.

Zeiss's small xenon arcs need 15V at about 5A to sustain the arc. The unit that I built to drive a bigger lamp needed 20V at 22.5A.

The voltage drop across the arc has a weak negative resistance - in that the voltage drops slightly as you increase the current - so you need a power supply that regulates the voltage drop to sustain a constant arc current - think pulse width modulation and a filter inductor.

Protecting the pulse width modulator against the 30kV starting spark takes a bit of care. The Southampton Chemistry electronics workshop apparently built an "improved" version of my power supply after I'd left, with a "better" starter which destroyed all the regulating transistors when they first tried it.
 
A 12V DC supply won't hack it. You need a 20 to 30kV spark to start the arc, which initially drops a couple of hundred volts for a few microseconds as it is first sustained as a glow discharge before it gets the tungsten electrodes hot enough for the arc mechanism to take over.

Look in Ebay for HID Xeon kits for replacing car headlights with Xeon
bulbs. They have ballasts that run on 12 volts and generate the
necessary starting voltage.


Dan
 
J

Joerg Niggemeyer

Jan 1, 1970
0
In message <[email protected]>
BeeJ said:
Suggestions on acquiring or building a High Candlepower Beam
Input: 12VDC
Output: Best I can get.
I have seen some "rated" at 3 million candlepower; is that for real?
Are there any brighter?

The good old spot lights are having good and quite big chrome plated
reflectors, so they collect most of the light of halogen in the spot.

But the lumen wattage performance of halogen is poor compared to
LED or HID. So much brighter lights are not a problem......

The highest intense spot I achieved so far was using
a 2mm long high pressure arc bow with a tube build for 24W DC.
It is running wiht an AC current at 5-6kHz instead to avoid cathode
fall regions.

The reflector is always very important
in combination with the size of the light source itself.
The proper adjustment and mounting is tricky, when smaller diameters
are in use.
One of the best reflectors for a standard D1S or D2S MPXL bulbs you
find for instance at MIL flashlights like http://www.nightreaper.com
The half angle of the beam is very narrow I guess just +-1°

LEDs gives you also impressive spot lights, but only when doing
it right: You can get just
in the center an impressive blue spot, which is just the
blue chip and the yellow of the luminance material is in the outer
ring and you wonder why your several watt LED chip is less good than a
well designed LED from for instance LEDLENSER running at lower power.



rgds

Joerg

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