Need help with commercial floor fan please

Bearings are not worn by any chance.
What will happen there is it may spin freely by hand but when windings are energised, it will pull the rotor and make it rub against the internal pole faces.(called poling)

Other than that, all I can think is that the windings have an internal short somewhere.
One way to find that is with a growler or a shorted turns meter.
Motor rewind shop will have one they could use to check.

 

I took a bit of a punt as to which side would be neutral, however, it probably wouldn't have made that much difference anyhow.

Being a commercial fan it may well have sealed bearings.
Show a photo inside the end cap.......

No idea what you are getting at with query 3.
At a guess, I think you want to disconnect the cap...........NOOOOOO.

Would have been nice to know the control was not the original previously......

 

Nick635csi . . . . .

Ist photo . . . shows end of motor and a 6 finger phospor bronze spring retainer which is pressing against and holding centered . . . .a porous sintered bronze bushing . . . a la . . .

Pickchur . . . .


Surrounding that bushing is a giant THICK-THICK-THICK felt washer that has its large central hole pressing into the pheriphery of that outer part of that ovaloid shaped bronze bushing /bearing.
At final motor assembley day, that felt washer gets uber super soaked with thin low viscosity motor lube oil and a bit on the internal motor shaft end that spins within it..
A timely weeping/wicking of motor oil passing from felt to be absorbed by the sintered bronze bushing, automatically takes care of your lubrication needs, until any later years, where any neglect of re oiling the felt donut, will encouner the motor shaft to the bushing pores with overheating , lube breakdown and its filling with broken down oil "varnishes" / films / gums.

Photo 2 . . . gives a better view of the sintered bronze bushing surrounding the motor shaft. ? What is diameter of motor shaft ?

Photos 3 &4 . . . give a motor shaft end view that rides within the bushing . . . . and for NO EXTRA CHARGE ! you can see the inside end of the bushing in the background with its bushings clean YELLOW felt packing surround.
There being no view of any surfactal scoring or discolor from oil overheating . . . likely due to actual minimum use of the unit to date .

As you might know, lubricating oils run HOTTER"N HELL in our vehicles when mechanically TAXED and in July- August heats . So the use of motor oil for THIS appliction is sort of ruled out.
BUT . . I have found out that for the last 100 years or so , that my use of the RED dyed automatic transmission fluids of the 50-60-70's have worked well for this application, its viscosity is such that it readily weeps thru the porous bearing.

Its my usual 1 year PM on all of my motors of THIS type . . . . just like day light saving times resets . . .except it being only once a year.


Thaaaassssit . . . . .


73's de Edd . . . .

The easiest way to make a fire with two sticks is first making sure that . . . . . one of them is being a match.

.

 

Well it's running..........big plus there as long as it's not smoking.

If you mean is it running close to manufacturers specs, you'd have to reassemble and run the motor with a tong meter test to see if it's within the right range of load current.

 

No...a tong meter is designed to measure the current by induction.
Google will show you.

 

1. No idea...show us what you have there.
2. Probably too high and would cause the start winding to draw more current.
You need just enough to cause the 90 degree electrical phase shift.
3. Do you mean it will not start on the lower speeds..?? ....Some fans are like that but a tong test would show.
It may be that the larger cap is required but it depends on the above.

 

Clip seems to be some kind of proprietry line product ........others may have seen similar.

As far as the tong meter, don't you have an electrician friend...??
Cannot see all that much further hobbiest use for one and the outlay would not really be economical to say the least.
The measurement from the tong meter shows the full load current as should be written on the motor label and should be an indication of whether you have the correct size capacitor or not.

 

Switch could be anything and not suitable for the job.
How could we possibly know anything from the photo of a knob on a bracket..??

Do you have a link to details/specs of the switch..??