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Need help finding a schematic for a Quasar TV/VCR combo

Discussion in 'Electronic Components' started by mikeydude, Mar 24, 2005.

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  1. mikeydude

    mikeydude Guest

    Model # VV8220
    Chassis # KM-201

    TV stopped working (no picture, sound still worked)
    I found a few burned resistors (value?), an open power resistor, and I can't
    identify one other part.

    I need help getting the values of the following part numbers on the PCB:
    R802
    R804
    R1002
    D851

    More details:
    1) The part labeled D851 has one side connected to the main power (120V),
    and the other side to the degaussing coil. It is a rectangular plastic box
    with two leads coming out the bottom.
    When I measured it with an analog VOM, it gave the same reading with the
    leads connected either way. It wasn't open or shorted.
    What is this part?

    2) Both 800 series resistors that are bad are connected after the bridge
    rectifier and before the STR30130 voltage regulator.
    Could it be just a voltage spike that caused it, or is there something else
    I should look for?
    (A partial schematic I drew is available via e-mail if you need a more
    accurate description of the circuit. Also posted a message with schematic
    attached in "alt.binaries.schematics.electronic")

    Thanks in advance for any help you can give,
    -Mike
     
  2. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Guest

    Try any of the parts distributors for Panasonic, or Matsuchita. These are
    copyright material, and they will not give out photocopies without written
    permission.

    --

    Jerry G.
    ======


    Model # VV8220
    Chassis # KM-201

    TV stopped working (no picture, sound still worked)
    I found a few burned resistors (value?), an open power resistor, and I can't
    identify one other part.

    I need help getting the values of the following part numbers on the PCB:
    R802
    R804
    R1002
    D851

    More details:
    1) The part labeled D851 has one side connected to the main power (120V),
    and the other side to the degaussing coil. It is a rectangular plastic box
    with two leads coming out the bottom.
    When I measured it with an analog VOM, it gave the same reading with the
    leads connected either way. It wasn't open or shorted.
    What is this part?

    2) Both 800 series resistors that are bad are connected after the bridge
    rectifier and before the STR30130 voltage regulator.
    Could it be just a voltage spike that caused it, or is there something else
    I should look for?
    (A partial schematic I drew is available via e-mail if you need a more
    accurate description of the circuit. Also posted a message with schematic
    attached in "alt.binaries.schematics.electronic")

    Thanks in advance for any help you can give,
    -Mike
     
  3. mikeydude

    mikeydude Guest

    Thanks for your reply.
    I was not asking for an illegal copy of the schematic.
    I will buy a schematic if that is necessary.
    In reality, all I need is someone that has a schematic to help me identify a
    few parts.
    Everything checks out except R804 and D851

    Thanks,
    Mike
     
  4. Graham W

    Graham W Guest

    D851 is certainly not a diode and almost certainly not broken,
    you'll be glad to hear! It is a PTC thermistor to control the de-gauss
    current through the de-gauss coils. However, there are usually three
    legs to this device so check again to see if there's another connection.

    What are the two rectangular things you have drawn - one has RL010
    in it and the other a diode symbol? Are there further circuit connections
    to those two which you haven't indicated?
     
  5. mikeydude

    mikeydude Guest

    Thanks for your post.
    I was concerned about D851. I'm glad to hear it is a thermistor.
    I unsoldered it from the board, so I'm sure there are only two leads coming
    from it.
    There are some markings on it, and I remember 050K being one of them, if
    that's any help.

    As far as your questions:
    RL010 is a relay which turns the main power on/off. (I only traced out the
    leads connected to the circuit in question.)

    D1001 - I'm pretty sure it is a rectifier which feeds another (lower
    voltage?) circuit. It looks like a small IC with 4 legs.
    The symbol I drew is from the PCB diagram. (I started to trace out the rest
    of that circuit too, since the PCB had been hot there, but I didn't since
    the components checked out ok).

    Really then, the only ID I need now is for R804. It was too badly burned to
    ID.
    It looks like a 1/2 watt resistor.
    R802 is also bad, but it is a power resistor - 180ohm, 3watt.

    Thanks,
    -Mike
    (P.S. I checked out your website. We have a lot of similar interests!)
     
  6. Franc Zabkar

    Franc Zabkar Guest

    PTCs come in 3-pin and 2-pin versions.

    See http://www.wagner.net.au/Catalogue/03_02.pdf

    - Franc Zabkar
     
  7. Franc Zabkar

    Franc Zabkar Guest

    An STR30130 datasheet is available from http://alldatasheet.com and
    from http://www.nteinc.com/specs/1700to1799/NTE1776.html.

    Before worrying about your resistors, I would test the regulator. Pins
    2,3,4 are the B,C,E of an NPN Darlington pair. A DMM diode test should
    show two diode drops between pins 2 and 3, and between pins 2 and 4.
    Pins 3 and 4 should test open in one direction and as a diode in the
    reverse direction. The resistances in the application circuit are R802
    = 2.2 ohm, R804 = 12K.

    Are you sure you have drawn R806 and R807 correctly? AFAICT, pin 1
    should connect to ground.

    - Franc Zabkar
     
  8. mikeydude

    mikeydude Guest

    Where to start...
    First, thanks for the post and the link to the datasheets.
    Second... the reply.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    --------------------------------------------------------
    R802 is a power resistor with the value printed on it. 5.6 ohm, 3 watt.
    R804 is burned and unreadable, but it has a value of 11.36k ohms, so I
    replaced it with a 12k resistor after reading your post.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    connect to ground.

    One side of R806 (220k) should connect directly to pin 2 of the regulator,
    the other side of the resistor is to ground.
    R807 is correctly drawn. It is a fairly low resistance (39 ohms). Pretty
    sure the value is correct. The colors read: orn/wht/blk/gold/wht.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    ---------------------------------------------------------
    Testing between pins 2 & 3, it reads like a diode with the cathode on pin 3.
    This seems correct from what I see in the datasheet. Shouldn't this show
    up under test as a single base-collector junction?
    It looks like both collectors of the Darlington pair are connected.
    Testing between pins 3 & 4 also reads like a diode with the cathode on pin
    3. Seems ok.
    Testing between pins 2 & 4 reads like a diode, but with higher resistance.
    Consistant with a two diode drop, I would think.

    Appreciate the help,
    -Mike
     
  9. Franc Zabkar

    Franc Zabkar Guest

    Yes, you're right. Sorry, brain fart.
    It seems that you may be lucky and that your regulator has survived.
    Perhaps R802 protected it. I'd be checking the load (HOT, FBT) for
    shorts.


    - Franc Zabkar
     
  10. mikeydude

    mikeydude Guest


    I will check the load.

    Thanks, Franc!
    And thanks to all who helped!

    -Mike
     
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