N
noname
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Hi. I hope someone here can help me. My father gave me an old submersible
pump. A Gorman Rupp subpump. It's probably over 50 years old and it doesn't
work anymore. I want to test and repair it if possible.
It's a pump with no dry kill switch attached right next to the pump like we
are seeing on the newer model ( no flowtation on/off swicht. It also a pump
with a big disconnect box, in witch there are old electronic/electric
parts: there is a electrical breaker , a relay , and a capacitor.
This pump runs on 115vlt, 1 ph. It's a 2 hp pump and 28 amp
I don't have much knowledge in electricity or electronic , but I would
really like to see if this pump can work again. I know if was working fine
when I was a kid. My father stored the pump and the switch box in an
underground pit for many years and now it's all corroded and it's not
working
Ok here is a picture of the pump:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a231/herbeapuce/ThePump.jpg
Now below is the picture of the switch box : Now in this switch box, the
electricity comes in from the left side of the box , it goes into a relay
and a capacitor , and comes out to the pump from the right side of the box.
One thing that may trick you is regarding the electricity coming in, I know
that usually one use the black and white wire for this but What they did
here is used the black as live and the red as neutral. The white wire seen
bended down is actually spare and not connected in any way.
Also I'm no electrician and I'm not used to see a double breaker connected
to a neutral.. ( remember what you are seeing is 115 vlt, not 220 vlt.) why
is that?
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a231/herbeapuce/theswitchbox.jpg
And here is the picture of the electrical diagram: this I'm sure will
explain all the mistary of this pump, but unfortunately I can't understand
or read this..
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a231/herbeapuce/Diagram.jpg
now for the questions..
How can I test the pump to know if it's fixable? I will tell you what I
checked already: I check the breakers with my tester and they do not work
anymore. So what I did was bypassing the breaker to see if the rest of the
electronics work, and they don't. ( it's either the relay or the capacitor ,
or both that don't work imo.)
So what I did after this is connecting the 115vlt right on the pump's
black and white wire ( I believe the red wire has to do with the capacitor,
that's why I didn't check??? ) my 115 vlt was coming from a 15 amp braker .
I saw a big spark when the live wire touched the black pump's wire , so I
terminated the test right away as I thought It would trigger my home breaker
( remember my pump pulls 28 amps..)
Would it make sense to hooked the pump into my oven plug ( 40amps). By
hooking I mean bypassing all the electronics and connecting to the white and
black wire of the pump itseft? Or no sense because if the relay and
capacitor are not working, he pump won't start anyway?
In order to buy new parts for the switch box, can someone with a brain give
me some specs for a relay, a capacitor, and the discharge resistor (
connected to the capacitor, see diagram )
Also do one know if this pump is equipped with a kill switch if it ever
runs dry? Can you guess it has or not form the diagram?
Thanks for our time
Thanks for you help
you can reach me at [email protected]
Stef.
pump. A Gorman Rupp subpump. It's probably over 50 years old and it doesn't
work anymore. I want to test and repair it if possible.
It's a pump with no dry kill switch attached right next to the pump like we
are seeing on the newer model ( no flowtation on/off swicht. It also a pump
with a big disconnect box, in witch there are old electronic/electric
parts: there is a electrical breaker , a relay , and a capacitor.
This pump runs on 115vlt, 1 ph. It's a 2 hp pump and 28 amp
I don't have much knowledge in electricity or electronic , but I would
really like to see if this pump can work again. I know if was working fine
when I was a kid. My father stored the pump and the switch box in an
underground pit for many years and now it's all corroded and it's not
working
Ok here is a picture of the pump:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a231/herbeapuce/ThePump.jpg
Now below is the picture of the switch box : Now in this switch box, the
electricity comes in from the left side of the box , it goes into a relay
and a capacitor , and comes out to the pump from the right side of the box.
One thing that may trick you is regarding the electricity coming in, I know
that usually one use the black and white wire for this but What they did
here is used the black as live and the red as neutral. The white wire seen
bended down is actually spare and not connected in any way.
Also I'm no electrician and I'm not used to see a double breaker connected
to a neutral.. ( remember what you are seeing is 115 vlt, not 220 vlt.) why
is that?
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a231/herbeapuce/theswitchbox.jpg
And here is the picture of the electrical diagram: this I'm sure will
explain all the mistary of this pump, but unfortunately I can't understand
or read this..
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a231/herbeapuce/Diagram.jpg
now for the questions..
How can I test the pump to know if it's fixable? I will tell you what I
checked already: I check the breakers with my tester and they do not work
anymore. So what I did was bypassing the breaker to see if the rest of the
electronics work, and they don't. ( it's either the relay or the capacitor ,
or both that don't work imo.)
So what I did after this is connecting the 115vlt right on the pump's
black and white wire ( I believe the red wire has to do with the capacitor,
that's why I didn't check??? ) my 115 vlt was coming from a 15 amp braker .
I saw a big spark when the live wire touched the black pump's wire , so I
terminated the test right away as I thought It would trigger my home breaker
( remember my pump pulls 28 amps..)
Would it make sense to hooked the pump into my oven plug ( 40amps). By
hooking I mean bypassing all the electronics and connecting to the white and
black wire of the pump itseft? Or no sense because if the relay and
capacitor are not working, he pump won't start anyway?
In order to buy new parts for the switch box, can someone with a brain give
me some specs for a relay, a capacitor, and the discharge resistor (
connected to the capacitor, see diagram )
Also do one know if this pump is equipped with a kill switch if it ever
runs dry? Can you guess it has or not form the diagram?
Thanks for our time
Thanks for you help
you can reach me at [email protected]
Stef.