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Mouse Logitech G100s left click not working [very complex]

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by Sikorsky, Oct 26, 2019.

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  1. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    Hello guys, so on my Logitech G100s left click started to double click and I wanted to solder it out and put new microswitch in place.

    I did this many times, changed right click it was working perfectly but left click isn't working at all.

    I tested microswitch itself its working properly.

    My opinion is that there was a break on circuit board, so I scrapped it with scalpel and tried to connect it with one small wire. This didn't worked properly, whats worse even mouse movement itself wasn't working properly after this, I probably connected it wrong and I don't know what to do now. Mouse movement is functioning, right click is working but I don't have left click. Pictures links are below!

    https://ibb.co/m0ZhR7T
    https://ibb.co/Xp9kPwc
    https://ibb.co/3k7ZrbT
    https://ibb.co/ZJK6Ldt
     
  2. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Sikorsky . . . . . . . . .(Luv your choppers )

    Well, I can initially see that you are NOT the one to be replacing the unit being shown in your avatar.

    Check my sections being referenced and use your eyes to confirm . . . . . as you have the board in hand to PRECISELY examine . . . I don't.
    You can see that on the left . . .YELLOW MARK UP . . .of your unit that the YELLOW circuit connections both MECHANICALLY MOUNT that micro/tact switch and electrically make one ends connection to the board ground plane thru its 4 radials.
    Pull out your ohmmeter and place in lowest ohms scale and connect one probe to the center electrical connection of the switches drawn in YELLOW connecting line and trace it on down to the encoder chip, and see which terminal it ends up connecting to . The ohmmeter should tell you with its near zero reading. Its being hidden from MY view by the solder resist coating on the top..
    The connection that is just above it will be the one associateted with your "PROBLEM" RED electrical connection line.
    So o o o o o trace that RED line back to your other RED marked up area and it end up at the center of that switch, just as it was treated on the other side, except for them adding that C1 block monilithic ceramic bypass capacitor C1. Note that I didn't show the RED radials on this switch, because i couldn't see them, but they have to be there . . or at least 1 of them.
    Don't know what's going on at the PINK traingle areas . . . . . but the only connection to the switch center is the RED foil line.
    Look up solder wicks purpose and use and then use it at your excess solder blob areas to end up with the equal amount of solder on a connection as you see around the rest of the untouched areas of the board.
    PLUS . . . . clean all of the EXCESS fluckin flux off the board, with a stiff small brush and some alcohol that you purloined from Granny Goodknockers medicine cabinet. Or, some denatured alcohol from her fondue heater .
    That flux residue looks like OATEYS plumbers flux*** . . . . . try using some rosin based flux.
    If it is *** get it TOTALLY cleaned off, or you won't have any board foil present in that affected area aftter about a year.

    Its being really too much out of focus-es-es-es . . . . .but . . . . .
    Else where, in the bottom left quadrant of the board, looks like you might have used a bare Cu jumper wire on a foil trace bypassing / repair , along with some " melt and drip " soldering.

    So o o o o o o o . . . . .initially. confirm the continuity of that RED lines run and we proceed from there, if that isn't being all of your problem.
    SINCE . . . .
    You iniatilly said . . .
    so on my Logitech G100s left click started to double click
    Transwapping the two switches would go a long ways toward answering that conundrum.
    The trouble would switch sides.


    BOARD PHOTO . . . MARK UP AREAS . . . . . .

    [​IMG]

    73's de Edd . . . . .

    There absolutely, positively, for certain, cannot be a crisis today; as my schedule is already crammed full.



    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2019
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  3. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    Hello!! Thank you for your answers, I didn't know someone would be willing to help me with this one! I was expecting someone would say "Time for new mouse" or something among those lines, but no! I was wrong!

    Now that I was looking at your pictures, I tested yellow line with multimeter and it was indeed on C6 line.
    Red line above didn't had connection on left click. Two pink triangles is what I cut with razor blade, because while i was soldering there the two lines kinda got chopped out... its very fragile..

    The other pink square at bottom left is few years old when I tried to remove cable and it rip out portion from board, so I went for electronic store to repair it.. I would go now too, but its closed and I really wanted to try everything in my power to be able to save it before monday... But one thing I learned from you now that I can trace where electronics are going! And with this I can fix my mouse for sure.. anyways.... I found on youtube exact same mouse and its clean fresh unscratched board! So I will link it here too

    In case you don't open youtube link I will post pictures too.
    https://ibb.co/F4Xrrnd

    So now my question would be, do I connect middle left mouse switch to C11 from one side and to other side of C11? Also from C11 there was no contact to "C5", which made it bit strange... because I thought everything is connected there, asking for more help before I go on and solder two wires here like I draw in picture

    https://ibb.co/KXYpHzC
    I cleaned board best I could with alcohol and tooth brush. And I drew two lines that I would connect onto C11. I'm not even sure what C11 is for, but looking at that youtube video by factory its connected like this (I think). So my belief would be this would give me connection on red Line, what do you think?
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2019
  4. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,805
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    Aug 21, 2015
    upload_2019-10-26_13-53-40.png


    You say . . .
    So now my question would be, do I connect middle left mouse switch to C11 from one side and to other side of C11?
    You can see on his photo that the foil path is leavingthe center of the micro switch and routing to C11 where it makes connection and then continuing its circuitous path down " The RED brick road " . . . .
    The other half of C11 connects to the ground plane foil mass.
    I also marked the RED circle where the radials extend on out to the ground plane.


    C5 is located W a a a a y on down, MANY pins lower than your two involved lines, and is not even being involved with your two circuit paths..
    I can see now that your flux deposit covered up half of C11 and thereby made my C1 read that way.

    I'm not even sure what C11 is for

    It's being used to bypass that RED circuit line to that ground plane.
    Somehow they don't look to be bypassing the YELLOW line, but they are using C32 for bypassing the detector phototransistor outputt, associated with your center roller wheel, that disrupts that optical interruptor pair..
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2019
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  5. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    I'm confused now. So what should I do? I thought two lines on microswitch that its the place where two currents go, but you say its just one current... I tried to connect middle click to C11 and mouse left click didn't worked whats even worse movement of mouse was stuttering or not working at all when I soldered wire from Middle mouse switch to C11..About red circle where the radials extent on out to the ground plane I understand this, but I just hope I didn't cut nothing from these :D ... I don't know what to do now...

    Basically I have to connect one write to C11 and another wire to MASS... Where do I find mass? that is the question

    Edit: I figured out that circuit is going thru light lines and borders of circuit are dark lines
    like in picture below, with this learnt everything is so much easier! (If this is correct of course)
    https://ibb.co/vvvNSWZ
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2019
  6. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    You got it !
     
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  7. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    But as mentioned before on my first message, I tried to do this but it didn't worked at all, what's worse even mouse movement stopped working correctly... I soldered only one wire from middle switch to C11.
     
  8. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    I fixed it.... I watched this video and applied same thing on my mouse, I ended up replacing that C11 SMP component and brushing off into its line and also I brushed off contact on left click so I could ground it... And I put copper wire to connect middle left click contact with C11 SMP. Works like charm...

    Oh and I bought some flux to be able to keep my solder iron tip clean as glass, without this I wouldn't be able to solder SMP component I also cleared off contacts and board, I'm happy, learned a lot with this :) thanks for help a lot!
     
  9. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

    14
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    Oct 26, 2019
    Edit, while cleaning flux I screwed up pink trinangle area, where Data - (white cable is) so mouse is not working at all..
     
  10. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    Aug 21, 2015
    The PINK areas are grounded, so you must have broken your fine copper wire that was needed to be run from the center contact of the micro switch, to the C11 cap ?
    And from that C11 cap, on down the RED line foil trail . . . . . can we consider that the original foil was still good, intact and usable ?
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2019
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  11. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    I managed to solve left click by brushing more on top contact of switch to connect it to ground, then I lost C11 SMP component, so I unsoldered same one from one dead gpu card that I keep in drawer since 2009, never knew what it would be good for but today came the day to use it :p

    After I somehow managed to solder C11 to ground and I made new scratch carefully onto red track.... and I soldered wire and other side of SMP together and then connected wire with middle contact of left switch, it worked like charm, but I didn't clean contacts yet I wanted to test first if its working... It did, but then I screwed up my flux spray sprayed all over the PCB and I was after cleaning with alcohol, and this is where I scratched Data- cable that was soldered before... And I tried to solder it back but mouse still didn't worked, this is where I got checkmated I don't know what else I can do...

    Left and right clicks are working properly now.... After spending like 10 hours with mouse and watching additional tutorials and everything i finally made it work, but now issue is this area
    https://ibb.co/6JhxV1K
    This is not current state, I tried to repair it... And kinda messed it up.... I will take picture of it how it is now...
    When I plugin mouse, mouse arrow doesn't show and I don't see red infrared light turning on either, basically mouse is dead
    I just hear beep boop USB sounds... :( Such a mistake to touch it with brush after i applied flux. I should apply it only on ones that i was soldering not this one, lession learned to never touch anything thats working already :(

    https://ibb.co/j6wjqQZ
    https://ibb.co/VWNQWRN
    https://ibb.co/JyH4qmD
    https://ibb.co/KmfgJMq
    I found old picture on PC from few years ago, when I was asking how to unsolder these... But you can see factory new Data- Data+ 5v and Grounds hope it will help you to at least see how it was before I screwed everything up..
    https://ibb.co/x1Dcwdf

    Took few pictures hopefully at least one will show it well :/ this is how it looks like currently... Is Data- connected to ground? If it is, that would be easy fix :S I couldn't find what to connect it to
    I tried to find what is Data+ connected to, but I couldn't find any contact either, and I'm sure that one is working properly, so I had no clue where to connect Data-
    Lession learned definitely not to touch what's working... I hope I will be able to repair this with your help..
    Also, thank you for helping me so much already, I hope we gonna pull this off XD
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2019
  12. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    Bump :c
     
  13. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,805
    1,176
    Aug 21, 2015
    Bumpee to Bumpor . . . Come in pls

    WHASSAMATTAH . . .got yer tail rotor in a bind . . . . and yer caught in a fast earthward spin ?
    ? ? ? . . . . . hint . . . . . hint . . . . . (Sikorsky)

    MAGNIFICENT pflux clean up on the board . . . . .

    Lets initially do some analytical LOW ohm testing.

    Your YELLOW area has too large of solder blobs built up at Yellow B and Yellow C.
    If YELLOW C has accidentally connected to the GROUND PLANE surround, it could simulate a continual activation of that switch, even though it has not been pressed down IF that switch is being a SPDT type.
    Also that condition over rides any other switches action . . . . .first come first served . . .until released.

    TEST A . . . . .
    Since your RED A-B-C areas have more normal solder joints lets see if we can test them first.
    Stabbing ohmmeter probes into RED A and RED B should show an open circuit, then if you click that microswitch button, a short circuit should show with the metering . . . thus, all is well . . so far..
    TEST B . . . . .
    To now confirm the microswitch type . . . . ohmmeter probes are placed across RED B to RED C, see if it shows a short and then click the switch to see if it changes to an open circuit.

    RESULTS . . . . .
    If the test of RED A to RED B agrees with the above, all is well with that switch.
    If the test between RED B to RED C agrees with the above then we have a Single Pole Single Throw type of switch configuration.
    If the tests of RED B to RED C agree with the above, we have a Single Pole Double Throw type of switch.
    In which case, the RED B connection normally rests on RED C connection, but upon button activation, it swings over to make contact with RED A connection, for the time of activation.
    If RED B to RED C connection always remains an open circuit, irregardless of switch activation, we have a SPST switch and the RED / YELLOW C connection is of no relevance on either RED or YELLOW switches..
    Sooooooooo the aforementioned YELLOW C solder blob shorting to ground plane would not create a fake switch on condition.

    FURTHER TESTING . . . . .
    Move back to YELLOW A to YELLOW B with the meter probes and that should be readingas an open circuit. Activate the microswith button and a short should develop for the pressed time period.
    Repeating that test with RED A to RED B should give the same results.
    One question now is being relevantt to the the C11 block ceramic surface mount unit.
    I can see the left side being OK with its connection to the massive ground plane at its connection point.
    Then am I correct that the original fine foil trace is good from the 45 deg bend at the top ( within marked in fine GREEN circle) down until it connects to the right half of that cap ?
    Then I see your fine cu wire add on to reach over to the RED C connection..
    From my mere 2D viewing perspective, that right C11 connection seems AWFULLY close to that ground plane mass, just to the right, beside it.
    If there is a connection created it will be equivalent to a closed switch condition.
    A surgical scalpel or #11 Exacto blade in its handle would permit cutting and peeling off, some of the adjunct ground plane for greater clearance / proximity of that right C11 connection.

    AL FIN . . . . .
    Place one meter probe toYELLOW B and look down to your encoder chip and I have that YELLOW foil path maked . . . UP TO . . . the point where it disappears underneath the white silk screen coating / resist. Using the other probe to each of those nearby I.C. pins should show a short to the one that the YELLOW foil is connected to . Keep that probe on that connection and take the prior connection of the other probe to Yellow B and move it up to YELLOW A. Now if that microswitch button is presssed, it should show a short, indicating all is well through the switch to the decoder pin connection, then as the switch is deactivated, an open circuit should be present.

    Repeat the same test sequence for your twin RED switch and its path of the RED marked up section.
    On that one search, at the decoder IC you might suspect that the required pin will be one pin up higher, just judging by the lay of the YELLOW and RED foil paths..

    Hint of the month . . . . .
    On correcting your over exuberant solder blob deposits and if you neither have a solder sucker nor So(l)der Wick***
    Hold the board up high in the air with the overladen solder joints facing the floor.
    Get your iron ready with it freshly tinned so that it looks like it is chrome plated and then tap it once to dislodge any excess solder.
    Move its tip upward to meet and heat a fat solder blob and as it heats the excess solder will run down and deposit on your tip.
    With experience you can carry off just the right amount of excss solder, or you can drain most all of it off and then depend upon a later reflow soldering with a stopping at just the right amount being added then.
    In either case, you need to reflow the solder on those joints after the board is inverted, over to its normal working position.
    *** You'se Limeys just might be using " Wycke ", instead.

    BOARD REFERENCING . . . . .


    [​IMG]

    https://i.ibb.co/rspV4Ln/Optical-Mouse-Circuit-Trail-II.jpg

    Thaaaaaaassssssit . . . . .


    73's de Edd . . . . .

    I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous.


    .
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2019
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  14. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    But but... problem is there in this part, Mouse was working until I moved that soldered wire..... and now as you can see it looks like bomb fell on it. I don't know where to connect this Data- Pin on board .... [​IMG]
    https://ibb.co/s5GpX4Q

    as you can see before it had wire connecting it... but now that wire fell down and i tried to scrape with screwdriver to seek for connection there but I couldn't find where to connect it to....
    As I say Mouse was fully functional with clicks, both clicks are working perfectly..
    Only issue is this Data- part, because of it mouse cursor don't even appear on screen when I plug mouse in
     
  15. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    Bumpee to Bumpor XD
     
  16. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    So I guess noone knows to solve this issue gg lol
     
  17. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,805
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    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Sikorsky . . . . .

    INITIAL OBSERVATIONS . . . .

    On your best relevant photo, I was only able to make out much other than the scraped area that you created, thus, confirming that there wasn't being any foil path hidden underneath the WHITE silk screen resist ink in that immediate area..
    My now, just acquired, reference photo for better viewing of a units foil traces, was being in focus at the center of the photo, but off to the side its a bit blurred. The auto aspect of the persons camera had opened it up to F5.6 due to low lighting level and therefore depth of field focus suffered, being off center.

    I digitally dithered and mean averaged the info into a higher pixel count image in order to get the enhanced inset display at the very top photo enhancement. There, I can then see that there is a surface mount 000 ohm resistor / jumper used to jump transfer +5 Vdc power across, at the top path of the mouses power supply line.

    Also down at the RED lines +5Vdc input there is an R3 . . . 2R2 ohm . . . leaded resistor that then immediately gets bypassed to ground with a C9 monolithic block ceramic SM cap of probably a 0.1 ufd value.
    That series resistor is assuredly being there to protect the DC USB supply of the host computer in case of a dead short occuring in the mouse power circuitry. That would hold loading down by a short to only ~1/2 amp.

    INTERCONNECTIONS . . . . REFERENCING . . . . .

    [​IMG]



    The first photo ONE reveals the use of 5 connections, with their color coding and layout .

    BLACK Heat shrink covered wire . . .should go to the ground plane.

    BLACK insulated wire is power negative and should also go to that ground plane

    RED insulated wire is being the +5 Vdc line that passes thru a 2.2 ohm resistor, and gets bypassed to ground with ceramic cap C9 and then passes down a foil path downward.

    The first two BLACK shield and ground connections should be a given, with them not having been tampered with.

    Lets trace out the RED pin,next, by having no power to the unit and initially ohmming out from the RED connector pin to the left side of that R3 . . .2.2 ohm SM resistor and then read the other side of the resistor where you should read that 2.2 ohms of added resistance. A foil trace from there, slants down to the left to connect to the left side of a 0.1 ufd SM ceramic capacitor for bypassing the power line to ground with its other half connecting to the ground plane.
    My VIOLET rectangles signify that there is adequate dead space between the left side of C9 and the adjunct WHITE pin to its left.
    This is also marked on your photo to the right, where you had scraped off some white silk screen ink / resist . That further confirmed it.
    The power path foil then passes further down and takes a turn to the right to connect to the round foil land of a resistor ( Zero ohms jumper - JP2) .
    This is being a branch out point where the RED foil path connects power to the RED foil path that further extends on at a downward slope to the right to supply power to that board area down there.
    The other path is the BLUE square connection of that earlier marked BLUE rectangle JP2 / 0 ohm resistor that passes upward to be the connection to that round foil circle at the opposite end. That then has power going upward / left on a foil path to connect to a R34- 000 ohm SM jumper and the RED foil path then extending on up above R34. That foil path gets power to the top of the circuit board.
    Confirm that all of that is allright, with no grounding out.
    That now leaves the two, side by side, fine YELLOW lines coming up from the bottom right corner from the encoder chip.
    Tracing those foil pairs, upwards and to the left, finds the top one mating into R1 and the bottom one into R2. Being like value resistors with the left sides of the resistors connectig into companion C4 and C3 for bypassing of those data lines to ground.

    NOW . . . . your two data connection points will be the BOLD A and B junctions.
    See if there is a foil path sgoing traight down from GREEN pin via the YELLOW path to BOLD A junction.
    An ohmming out will reveal such a connection.
    If so, all of that connective foil path is original and intact.

    The sole floating connection now would be from WHITE pin and down to the BOLD B junction.
    AND on my provided photo I can plainly make out a thin foil trace that is where my short BROWN mark in is.
    Seems like the trace would originate at the WHITE pin and drop down and pass thru the dead space between the end caps of the C4 and C3 ceramic capacitors and then re-route sharply to the right, to connect into the C3 / R2 junction.
    BUT this trace is being MOSTLY hidden by the WHITE ink overlay at the start of the trace.
    By your photo over to the right, it seems like my LIME GREEN line is where you added in a piece of CAT-5 wire to make a soldered trace interconnect.
    I would also use a short length of WHITE insulated CAT-5 wire, with a fashioned bare copper end loop around the WHITE pin and dress hat wire to the left to make a right angle bend downwards in it, to then route down and make another right angle bend into the BOLD B junction with a bared wire tip.

    If you initially found a WHITE pin to BOLD A direct connection, that should be answering about BOLD B's connective situation.

    Thaaaaaaassssssit . . . . .


    73's de Edd . . . . .


    CHRISTMAS is nearing . . . . Now . . . I ask you . . . . What other time of the year do you find
    yourself sitting in front of a dead tree and eating candy out of your socks ?

    .
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 10, 2019
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  18. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,805
    1,176
    Aug 21, 2015
    " Also down at the RED lines +5Vdc input there is an R3 . . . 2R2 ohm . . . ( leaded ) SM resistor that . . . . . ."


    Additionally . . . . .

    " AND
    on my provided photo I can plainly make out a thin foil trace that is where my short BROWN mark in is."
    Digital processing induced a color shift,such that the resultant BROWN, came out transitioned into a short and wide RED mark in.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019
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  19. Sikorsky

    Sikorsky

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    Oct 26, 2019
    I checked this everything is connected as you told, but when I test it says 500 on ground while doing continuity test, meanwhile on Ohm test it shows 1, no continuity, so I guess that's okay.



    This part was okay too

    There is no connection between GREEN pin to BOLD A and GREEN pin to BOLD B, ohm meter shows 1 its open circuit, no connection at all


    There is no connection between WHITE PIN to C4, C3, R1, R2... No connection at all with white pin, same as no connection at all with green PIN.

    Only connection is further C4 right with R1 left
    C3 right with R2 left
    _______________________________________

    So issue is that White and Green pins are not connected to R1, R2, C4, C3,
    Without having these DATA+ and DATA- connected, mouse doesn't work...

    We found where problem is, now what do I do next, what to solder onto what?



    Can you post me photo of where to solder wire from WHITE Pin onto where?
    And Green PIN onto where? Not sure if it goes to R1, R2, C4, C3 also both of them have left and right connections, not sure where at all...
     
  20. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,805
    1,176
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Sikorsky . . . . .


    You say . . .

    There is no connection between GREEN pin to BOLD A and GREEN pin to BOLD B, ohm meter shows 1 its open circuit, no connection at all

    There is no connection between WHITE PIN to C4, C3, R1, R2... No connection at all with white pin, same as no connection at all with green PIN.

    So go to that very small BROWN (RED) run of foil that I marked up on the drawing and place one meter probe in its center and rotate to be sure that contact with the copper is made by piercing any insulative resist covering .
    Use the other meter probe to confirm if any continuity is made to the four above points.

    If just one connection is confirmed, then I believe that a gentle scraping off of the white resist paint will let you find the original foil paths hidden underneath the paint up close to the left side of the 5 pin connector..
    That then confirms as being as . . . . .


    You are saying . . .

    And Green PIN onto where? Not sure if it goes to R1, R2, C4, C3 also both of them have left and right connections, not sure where at all...

    Your connecting point will be at my mentioned A and B points with the interconnecting GREEN and White wires from the 5 pin connector.


    73's de Edd . . . . .


    A workspace cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.



    .
     
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