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Motion sensor lights.

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by [email protected], Dec 23, 2008.

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  1. Guest

    The kind that have two lights.Is there a simple way to fix it up so that
    it will sound off a buzzer or a muffled horn inside my house?
    cuhulin
     
  2. hr(bob)

    hr(bob) Guest

    Radio Shack sells various buzzers, also your local hardware store
    should have a buzzer in trhe doorbell area. You just have to wire up
    the power supply for the buzzer to the circuit that turns on the
    lights.
     
  3. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest


    Unfortunately these usually operate at mains voltage, no isolation
    transformer, like the electronics in a lamp dimmer.
    You would need some sort of relay or small transformer added in to isolate
    for a buzzer etc.
     
  4. Guest

    OK, Thank you for your input.
    cuhulin
     
  5. JeffM

    JeffM Guest

    If it's *in addition* to the bulbs lighting,
    a separate photosensitive system could run the noise maker.
     
  6. Here you can buy a unit that runs on AA batteries and has a noise maker.
    You could open it up, remove/disconnect the speaker and run a set of wires to
    a remote speaker and a "wall wart" for power.

    Geoff.
     
  7. bz

    bz Guest

    Simple? No. But almost simple. Put a current transformer in series with the
    outdoor lights.
    Use the secondary of the current transformer to drive a sonalert buzzer.

    You may need to find out how much current your outdoor light draws, and
    wind your own transformer.

    You may also need to put a diode and or a zener across the transducer to
    protect it from too much voltage.




    --
    bz

    please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
    infinite set.

    remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
     
  8. Ian Jackson

    Ian Jackson Guest

    Too complicated.

    Most stand-alone motion sensors have a 4-way strip 'chocolate block'
    power connector. These enable you to connect:
    Neutral (common power in and power out to light).
    Ground/earth (common power in and power out to light).
    Live In (power in from switch).
    Live Out (switched by sensor relay, and out to light).
    [Note: If you want to override the sensor, and have the light always
    'on' when the power switch is 'on', you connect another switch between
    the Live In and Live Out connections.]
    To connect a warning buzzer (or any other device) as a 'slave' of the
    light, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live Out
    connections (ie in parallel with the feed to the light). This can be
    connected to a normal AC power receptacle/socket, then use a suitable
    cheap wall-wart DC power supply to power the buzzer. This will buzz
    whenever the light is lit.

    Note that many newer motion detectors have don't need the additional
    switch for the override function. This is cunningly provided by
    switching 'on'-'off'-'on' within 2 seconds. If you do this, the light
    stays on. To restore the sensor function, you switch 'off', wait about
    10 seconds, and then switch 'on'. However, the principle is the same. As
    described above, simply take a power feed back from the Neutral and Live
    Out connections.

    I've never actually done this, but it just HAS to work!
     
  9. 1D10T

    1D10T Guest

    Exactly as I've done it, several times. The system is mounted under an eave
    on my detached workshop, and the buzzer is under an eave near my back door,
    mounted on a 1/4" plywood 'sounding board', so that I'm aware of activity.
    The worst part of the project was aiming the sensor to avoid false alarms,
    as the front sidewalk is kinda close.
     
  10. jakdedert

    jakdedert Guest

    All doable with off-the-shelf X10 hardware...plug it in and play. They
    have motion sensor outdoor lights which send an X10 signal when
    triggered. That signal can enable any one of dozens of modules,
    including a sounding unit which simply plugs into any convenient outlet.
    Other modules plug into the wall and provide a switched outlet
    controlled by the same signal--by which any sort of sounder, light or
    any other 120v device can be triggered. An unlimited number of modules
    can be simultaneously switched.

    AIRC, one even includes a wired or wireless TV camera.

    Someone steps on the porch; voila'! a dedicated video monitor comes on
    at the same time as the light on the porch, showing the caller (or
    intruder, as it were) at the same time a beeper sounds. The video
    signal can be routed to a computer and trigger an email alert, with
    recorded video...or viewed live from any web-connected computer.

    jak
     
  11. David Powell

    David Powell Guest

    Dunno, that sort of lamp is usually mounted outdoors, in a high and
    inaccessible position. Stick the ct indoors, at the feed end of the
    supply cable, save on weatherproofed glands, cable, etc. I do it that
    way, any old tiny mains transformer with a 1V ish tap on the secondary
    will do. Or wind a couple of turns over the bobbin and slot between
    bobbin and core. Feeds a 12V postage stamp sized relay, so two sets
    of isolation to keep that nasty, spikey 240VAC stuff away from my ttl.

    Usual caveat forthe unwary when playing with cts, watch out for high
    voltage if you open circuit the secondary winding.
    Lucky you! Take a look at the modern ones, value engineered until the
    last penny is shaved off the kit.
    Not if the bulb is broken, I've a couple of dozen or so security
    lights on my warehouses, that log onto an pee-cee alarm system, so get
    a broken bulb alert.
    It does, that's a feature! Light is on for some tens of seconds after
    power-on, gives confirmation to user, provided he can see the lamp.
    My lights are powered on when the alarm system is set, so illumination
    to exit the property, and a log of unlit ones.

    Regards

    David P.
     
  12. Ian Jackson

    Ian Jackson Guest

    I'm glad to know that I'm not talking total bollocks (which, I must
    confess, I occasionally do). Apart from carefully pointing the sensor in
    the correct direction, the usual method of restricting the 'field of
    vision' of the sensor is to stick some pieces of preferably black PVC
    tape on the critical places on the 'lens'. It does seem to work.
     
  13. Ian Jackson

    Ian Jackson Guest

    True, true. Oh course, if you're using a stand-alone sensor (which is
    what I was really talking about), this can be mounted relatively low
    down (where it will be more selective in what triggers it), with the
    light being mounted higher in order to give a wider coverage of
    illumination.
    There are not many transformers with a 1V tap on the secondary.
    Yes, you'll probably need to do this. Of course, you'll probably need to
    do a bit of experimenting to determine the number of turns required.
    Indeed. The current transformer is a good idea, but is much more of a
    home-construction project than a bit of simple DIY. Of course, if the
    light bulb blows, you won't get any alarm. However, you would usually
    notice if the light wasn't working.
    My experience with these things is limited, but surely there is always
    some form of connection block? You can't get much cheaper than a bit of
    'chocolate block'.
    A blown (and therefore unlit) bulb won't stop the alarm (as I described)
    from working. The 'alarm' voltage will still be fed to the wall-wart
    transformer. Of course, except for not lighting up, you won't get any
    indication that the bulb is not working. For a completely
    'comprehensive' system, would need to use a combination of current
    sensing and voltage sensing.
    Thank heavens for that!
     
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