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Discussion in 'Security Alarms' started by [email protected], Jan 4, 2008.

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  1. Guest

    Hello. I wanted to thank everyone that responded to my original post
    (Alarm questions indoor/outdoor stuff)

    I had a few more questions. When I enter new sensors there is a prompt
    for a report code. I'm assuming this is some kind of special code for
    the monitoring station? Maybe I over looked something in the manual
    for my Lynx system. Could someone please explain this to me.

    I'm already doing the external siren but was wondering if it would be
    a good idea to also run a external speaker? I thought about just
    shutting the speaker off to make the alarm harder to find but I do
    like to hear the needed voice prompts.

    What is the best way to put sensors on windows? I have a new home with
    double hung windows. It looks like the only place a sensor would fit
    is if I glued the receiver onto the movable part of the window and the
    magnet on the side but then it would be slightly visible. I'm not
    even sure if there would be much point to this as someone could just
    break the window (decided against glass breaks) and take the sensor
    off anyway.

    I also decided against key fob use. After trying one out I worry I
    might shut the alarm off on accident after I go out the door so I'm
    just going to stay with the portable keypads.

    My next question is about glass breaks. I had originally planed to put
    them in every room. When I check out topics about them its always just
    a big argument on if they should be used or not.

    My glass patio door is in the kitchen which is also close to where one
    of my stereo speakers sits. If I start telling my girlfriend she can't
    do the dishes and things like that while the alarm is on its not going
    to get used when I'm not home. I don't want to be restricted on what
    movies I watch etc.

    Some posts say to use them only when you are not home. I live by a
    airport and at times the whole house will rattle. The same during
    thunderstorms. I don't want to be away from home and worry a
    thunderstorm might trip my alarm.

    I think I'm going to send back the glass breaks even though I wish
    they would work for me. The system feels incomplete without them.

    What are my alternatives? motion detectors in every room? I have a 32
    pound dog and not sure if I would trust the cheaper wireless ademco
    motion sensor. The 80 pound resistant sensor is something like 120

    So it looks like I might just have to buy a separate power supply with
    backup and hardwire some motions. But then I will still need the 5816
    transmitter. I'm starting to wish I had gone with one of the better

    thanks for reading
  2. JoeRaisin

    JoeRaisin Guest

    Your last paragraph may tell the tale. It sounds like you are shooting
    for a steak dinner but have only purchased hamburger.

    Your panel is okay for temporary or portable applications (I gave one to
    my niece when she went away to college) but there comes a time when you
    stop throwing good money after bad. Use what you got until you can save
    up enough for a Vista 20 or First Alert FA168 (same technology as yours
    so the wireless you have will be compatible) and in the meantime get
    some education on fishing wires and other concealment techniques and run
    as much wire as you can in preparation for the final permanent system.

    As for the glass breaks, there are sensitivity adjustments you can make
    that 'might' help with the airplane noise. I always program any GB's
    near a kitchen or such as an interior zone so it won't be active when
    you are home, I'm not sure if the Lynx will do 'night stay' but if it
    does you can program that zone to be active when you go to bed.
  3. Guest

    I decided to try out one of the glass breaks last night. I left it on
    max sensitivity while watching movies with the stereo turned up to a
    fair volume. Working ok for me so far.

    I gave it the test by banging on the patio door and shaking my keys
    and was able to set it off once with that method. What did easily set
    it off for me was when I moved it and sat it on the table. I realize
    they are normally not moved but if a vibration like that can set it
    off I'm worried about thunderstorms.

    My lynx does not have a night stay option. As I learn more about
    alarms I will take your advice and upgrade to the vista 20. Is
    programming fairly similar? Its a great relief to know that all these
    expensive wireless sensors will be compatible.
    Family would be very happy to receive my lynx when I do upgrade so its
    not exactly a waste of money either.

    I was still wondering what are the report codes for when adding

    My system should be ready for monitoring in about 2 weeks once my
    phone line is installed and I'm happy with the glass breaks. Are there
    any ways to conceal the phone box? I thought about planting a few
    bushes in front of it. We have underground lines in our area. Another
    future project will be to install some kind of buzzer if the phone
    line is cut.

    If the alarm is tripped and the police come out how do they respond?
    I'm assuming they do some sort of walk around and check for forced
    entry. If everything appears safe and sound will they still break into
    your house to verify? I will be using alarm relay. I was also hoping
    that after calling the police the alarm company would contact me.

    thanks again for taking the time to respond. I'm actually having a lot
    of fun while trying to make my home safer.
  4. G. Morgan

    G. Morgan Guest

    Leave them blank for now. When you get monitored fill in any value
    (10 is what I do) to activate that zone for contact ID reporting.
  5. Thunder can set them off if it's especially strong or if the
    glassbreak is too sensitive. However, the physical vibration you
    delivered by moving the device was probably many times the amount it
    would sustain when there's lightning outside. I'veused glassbreaks
    for many years on my own installations. The IntelliSense (Honeywell)
    models perform as well as or better than others I tried. In
    Connecticut thunderstorms weren't as frequent as they are in Sarasota
    (daily during summer) but we got our fair share of them. We
    monitored hundreds of systems, most of them with glassbreaks. When a
    major T-storm came through we'd typically get a half dozen false
    signals from whatever town was getting the brunt of the storm.
    That's not a bad idea but do spend some time getting accustomed to
    what you already have before you spend more money on an upgrade.
    I haven't programmed a Lynx but the Vista-20 is fairly easy.
    Sounds good but take your time so you know exactly what you want/need
    before you change it out.
    If you use a central monitoring facility you can program what codes
    are sent for the different types of alarm. Most central stations
    accept Ademco Contact ID (aka CID or Point ID) which has predefined
    codes so you don't need to worry about that until you select a
    monitoring center. If/when you get it monitored you might want to
    inquire if the company will set the parameters for you. They'll
    probably do it for free to get your business. Just make sure they
    agree NOT to lock you out of programming. Some of them do that and
    then refuse to give you the code even after you've fulfilled your
    obligations to them.
    There are a number of ways to protect the phone line protector (aka
    the "demarc"). You can cover it with a heavy-gauge metal box and
    cover the wire with a U shaped protector made by VoiceLok. That's a
    simple and relatively effective but somewhat expensive solution. If
    the phone line is aerial you can lower the strain relief a bit,
    reroute the drop wire in conduit and relocate the protector inside
    the house if there's a good spot inside the wall.

    If it's a buried cable and you have a basement you can dig around it
    and run it through the wall a few inches below grade. If you do that
    insert a short piece of galvanised conduit in the hole and run the
    cable through it so it's not in direct contact with the cement. The
    cable material *might* be impervious to cement but I prefer to err on
    the side of caution.

    If it's buried but there's no basement, relocate the protector inside
    the wall (make it a little lower so you have anough cable to reach)
    and run it in conduit from below grade. Make a 2' square frame of
    1x6 lumber around the conduit flush with the ground. Fill it with 2"
    of sand and 4" of cement, remove the frame and your phone line will
    be fairly secure.

    Note: All of the above stuff is against phone company tarrifs which
    say that only they can mess with the drop. However, once it's done
    they never do anything about it (although they can and Olson, Morgan
    or one of the others here will tell you stories about some fictional
    customer whose phone was cut off and/or he got sued by Mark Sableman
    for doing this. :))
    It varies from town to town and often even from one officer to the
    next. Just like anyone else, some police are dilligent and helpful.
    Others are ... well, not. I've heard police actually hanging around
    to help an elderly customer understand his alarm. I've also seen
    cases where they left the premises without fully investigating even
    though there was a clearly broken window and the thief was still
    The procedure is usually the reverse. First they call the premises.
    Then, if there's no answer, they call the police. Finally, they
    start calling the list of responsible parties (the "keyholders").
    No problem. Feel free to ask more. After all, the newsgroup is for
    sharing information about security systems.


    Robert L Bass

    Bass Home Electronics
    4883 Fallcrest Circle
    Sarasota · Florida · 34233
    Sales & Tech Support 941-925-8650
    Customer Service 941-232-0791
    Fax 941-870-3252
  6. JoeRaisin

    JoeRaisin Guest

    It is basically the same platform, with the exception of some different
    fields, programming is the same. User operation is identical as well.
    The others had got it. As long as the first digit isn't a zero that
    zone will be sent to the central station in the event of an alarm. So
    when you do get monitoring ensure ALL zones get that first digit changed
    or your system could be in alarm and central station won't get the signal.
    Get the demarc off the outside of the house and you won't have to worry
    about it. You can also get a cellular back up. Alarmnet is compatible
    with your line of equipment and can send individual alarm signals just
    like the land line. Just make sure your replacement panel is ECP
    capable. It'll work without it but not nearly as smooth.
    You will want to discuss this with your monitoring company. Make sure
    you understand precisely what their response will be for each type of
    alarm they receive.
    Good Luck
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