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microwave oven Sharp R-650D

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Rob Mitchell, Feb 3, 2006.

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  1. Rob Mitchell

    Rob Mitchell Guest

    This 2 year old oven failed last week. ALL the appliances in my house
    are dying - central vac, dryer, fridge, wall oven, microwave within 3
    months. Even my alarm clock is threatening to die. The dryer, fridge
    and oven are the same age, but the vac is much older, micro and clock
    much newer. Is there anything that could cause mass appliance death?

    After reading sci.electronics.repair.faq for mwaves, I found that one of
    the relays was about 300 ohms across the contacts when it was off. I
    replaced it with the closest I could find (24VDC coil, 40A AC contacts).

    Now, after re-assembly, the oven looks dead. However, if I open the
    door, the display turns on welcoming me to set the clock. I set the
    clock and then when I close the door, the power goes off, and it's dead.

    Open door, set clock, close door can be repeated. No fuses or breakers
    blow. When the door is open, the light comes on.

    I thought that perhaps the coil resistance might not be a good match.
    The old one was 1.1K and the new one was 650 ohms. So I added 600 ohms
    in series. Now, I hear the relay pull in, and the microwave no longer
    turns off when you close the door. The control panel 'works' but there
    is no energy, the turntable doesn't turn and the fan doesn't come on.

    Without drawings this is like working in the dark.

    What I really need is an OMIF-S-124LM, but delivery is 20 wks and I have
    to buy 50 <groan>. Any suggestions or help very welcome.

    Rob
     
  2. JANA

    JANA Guest

    Remove your modification, and check all the door switches for their proper
    functioning. You may need to get a relay that is more exact in its match to
    the original one. Sharp has a parts order department where original parts
    may be bought. There are also electronics parts suppliers around who handle
    original manufacture parts.

    --

    JANA
    _____


    This 2 year old oven failed last week. ALL the appliances in my house
    are dying - central vac, dryer, fridge, wall oven, microwave within 3
    months. Even my alarm clock is threatening to die. The dryer, fridge
    and oven are the same age, but the vac is much older, micro and clock
    much newer. Is there anything that could cause mass appliance death?

    After reading sci.electronics.repair.faq for mwaves, I found that one of
    the relays was about 300 ohms across the contacts when it was off. I
    replaced it with the closest I could find (24VDC coil, 40A AC contacts).

    Now, after re-assembly, the oven looks dead. However, if I open the
    door, the display turns on welcoming me to set the clock. I set the
    clock and then when I close the door, the power goes off, and it's dead.

    Open door, set clock, close door can be repeated. No fuses or breakers
    blow. When the door is open, the light comes on.

    I thought that perhaps the coil resistance might not be a good match.
    The old one was 1.1K and the new one was 650 ohms. So I added 600 ohms
    in series. Now, I hear the relay pull in, and the microwave no longer
    turns off when you close the door. The control panel 'works' but there
    is no energy, the turntable doesn't turn and the fan doesn't come on.

    Without drawings this is like working in the dark.

    What I really need is an OMIF-S-124LM, but delivery is 20 wks and I have
    to buy 50 <groan>. Any suggestions or help very welcome.

    Rob
     
  3. Guest

    Every microwave I have ever worked on always had a schematic somewhere
    on the inside of the shell/cover or on the bottom or somewhere. If you
    post the details about make, model and serial number people might be
    able to give you suggestions.

    H. R. (Bob) Hofmann
     
  4. Mike Berger

    Mike Berger Guest

    The only thing they all have in common is your power source.
     
  5. Rob Mitchell

    Rob Mitchell Guest

    Every microwave I have ever worked on always had a schematic somewhere
    I've heard this, but not mine. I've been over every inch of the
    cabinet, inside and out, including the bottom.

    Rob
     
  6. Art

    Art Guest

    Check for the price of the control assembly and the safety switches. Replace
    the complete controller. Sharp parts department can look up the part number
    and price. Modifying these things can give you unwanted results.
     
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