I have a DCS WOS230 wall oven. During humid weather, the oven display will show a F7 error and there is a continuous beeping from the controller. The F7 error is a "continuously depressed key" error.
I have unplugged the keypad ribbon cable from the controller and reapplied power to the oven. There is no error generated in this case. This eliminates the controller as the problem, and isolates the problem to the membrane keypad.
I bought the oven used/scratch and dent, so it there is no warranty.
I haven't been able to identify which key is at fault, but since a replacement (only sold as a keypad, controller, and clock module) is about $450 I would like to try to figure it out and fix it if possible.
The oven is fairly new, and there is not much wear on the keypad. I think that the top membrane layer must have gotten stretched in installation or something, and causes a short.
Does anyone have any experience peeling a membrane keypad apart and repairing a short?
Is a membrane keypad generally equivalent to a bunch of momentarily depressed switches?
Can I check continuity across the ribbon cable pins with different keypad buttons pressed to find out which buttons correspond to which ribbon cable pins? I don't have any idea what the pin out is for the ribbon cable, and I don't even know if there is a single ribbon cable pin for each button, or if the cable is double sided...
I am tempted to make my own control panel, since it's basically just about 15 momentarily-on buttons and a keypad. Then I could arrange them in a more logical manner, and attach the clock/controller behind a panel cutout.
Thanks for any comments or assistance!
Dave
I have unplugged the keypad ribbon cable from the controller and reapplied power to the oven. There is no error generated in this case. This eliminates the controller as the problem, and isolates the problem to the membrane keypad.
I bought the oven used/scratch and dent, so it there is no warranty.
I haven't been able to identify which key is at fault, but since a replacement (only sold as a keypad, controller, and clock module) is about $450 I would like to try to figure it out and fix it if possible.
The oven is fairly new, and there is not much wear on the keypad. I think that the top membrane layer must have gotten stretched in installation or something, and causes a short.
Does anyone have any experience peeling a membrane keypad apart and repairing a short?
Is a membrane keypad generally equivalent to a bunch of momentarily depressed switches?
Can I check continuity across the ribbon cable pins with different keypad buttons pressed to find out which buttons correspond to which ribbon cable pins? I don't have any idea what the pin out is for the ribbon cable, and I don't even know if there is a single ribbon cable pin for each button, or if the cable is double sided...
I am tempted to make my own control panel, since it's basically just about 15 momentarily-on buttons and a keypad. Then I could arrange them in a more logical manner, and attach the clock/controller behind a panel cutout.
Thanks for any comments or assistance!
Dave