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Marantz SD 1015-R Cassette Motor Replacement

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by MuddywheelsMan, Feb 26, 2012.

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  1. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    Hi Guys,
    Dan here,
    I'm new to the forum so please beare with me :)

    I have a Marantz SD 1015R and was wondering if it was possible to get a generic replacement motor? The current one is a Mitsumi and the deck was made between 1980-2. A electronics repair place near me messed it up.( Put wrong size belts on it caused loads of WOW ! and replaced heads but didn't allign etc.) It is now working properly but the motor runs as soon as the unit is switched on which I'm sure it didn't do previously. I can't identify what Voltage / direction of rotation the motor has and was wondering if anyone could help? as I want to get a replacement / substitute motor as a spare. I've done all the usual surfing but can't find out this info. I am a disabled man who has trouble with his hands so attempting to repair the exsisting motor isn't something I can do.

    Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated,

    Cheers,

    Dan :)
     
  2. mrmodify

    mrmodify

    157
    32
    Feb 13, 2010
    Why do you want to replace the motor?

    Is it the original Motor?

    Does it operate the deck correctly (speed, constant speed)?

    :confused:
     
  3. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    Marantz SD 1015R Motor

    Hi Mr. Modify
    I believe it is the original motor, It is running constant and at correct speed and I have adjusted it. I wanted to know what voltage / direction of rotation it is and where I could by an appropriate spare motor for the deck. As it's over 30 years old and I'm worried it will stop working soon. The label the motor housing have worn away but I can see its a Mitsumi Brand motor. Are these possible to repair should I need to?

    While it is working I believe the motor is at fault because it runs as soon as I turn the deck on and it didn't do this prior to going to my local repair store.

    Any advice you can give would be appreciated,

    Thanks for the reply,

    Dan
     
  4. mrmodify

    mrmodify

    157
    32
    Feb 13, 2010
    I don't think i would worry about the motor. Do some searches on the internet for the M/N of the Marantz. Or you could possible get the info you seek on a schematic.

    I don't know about marantz cassette deck, but I have two high end Pioneer's (CTF-1000 I bought in 1978, and a CTF-1250 I purchased in the early 80"s. The 1000 has an ungodly amount of hours on it. Both have the original motors and are untouched except for belt kits.

    If it works at most I would do if you haven't done already is lube the bushings ( 10w oil on bushings from outside of the motor).

    If you want voltage measure it at the motor leads. I would be pretty sure it is DC.

    I would think you should be able to see rotation with out taking it out just remember which end you viewed it from.

    On the Pioneer's there is a circuit for tape slack takeup. There is a micro switch on either on the top right or top left side of the slot where the cassette is inserted. When the cassette is inserted the micro switch makes conntact and turns the capstain motor on.

    Some units the motor does stay running as long as the power button is on. I did try to search for a schematic or a owner manual for your unit in the US to help you more but did not have any luck.
     
  5. davelectronic

    davelectronic

    1,087
    12
    Dec 13, 2010
    Hi there MuddywheelsMan.
    Those small DC motors run ok like forever, there not pushed hard, RPM is well under the maximum.
    Typically they have sintered bronze bearings, if there is noise a tiny drop of light fine oil only a drop and make sure its thin, clock oil or similar, dont know where you are in the world, here in the uk there is a supplier, but your motor should run happily for years to come. :)
     
  6. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    Marantz SD 1015R

    Hi mr modify,
    Thanks for the info I feel better about my motor now :) I'll have a look on the web over here too. Funnily enough I've just got my hands on a Pioneer CTF 9191 today. It looks awsome going to try it out in a mo but I should think the belts will need replacing though..

    Cheers for your advice,

    All The Best,

    Dan
     
  7. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    Marantz SD1015

    Hi Dave,
    Thanks for the advice :) I'll do some searches and see what I can find,
    I feel better about it thanks to yours and mr modify's comments
    Cheers,
    Dan
     
  8. restorerjohn

    restorerjohn

    7
    0
    May 3, 2012
    The 9191 is a nightmare to get working well, but well worth it all in the end.
    Your FF/REW idler and tyre will be fun and games to get working.
    How did you go with it?
     
  9. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    CTF 9191 REW / FF & VU METER

    Hi restorer john,
    Thanks for replying. You're right the CTF 9191 is fab. Got the deck for nothing fired it up and plays / records beautifully. There seems to be pleanty of strength in rew / ff. However I noticed that as the tape would rewind almost completely onto the supply reel that it would seem to loose grip and not be able to spool the tape completly to the begining. Is this a symptom of the issue you had with the idler etc? I wasn't sure but before reading your post I thought the issue could be down to a slack drive belt or glazed tyre? Also one of my VU Bulbs has died and I would like to replace it but don't know how to access it as I'm very inexperienced in the realm of eletronics as have difficulty doing intricate stuff with my hands. Is it easy to change the bulbs? Also I noticed my pinch roller has been well loved in the past are there any substitutes availible? Or could I gently burnish the surface with some very fine wet and dry to give it a matte finish should the roller fail? Sorry for the barrage of questions !

    When did you get your 9191 then? I'm only 20 so am a bit of a newbie to the vintage world ! Regards Dan :)
     
  10. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    Hi restorer john,
    Thanks for replying. You're right the CTF 9191 is fab. Got the deck for nothing fired it up and plays / records beautifully. There seems to be pleanty of strength in rew / ff. However I noticed that as the tape would rewind almost completely onto the supply reel that it would seem to loose grip and not be able to spool the tape completly to the begining. Is this a symptom of the issue you had with the idler etc? I wasn't sure but before reading your post I thought the issue could be down to a slack drive belt or glazed tyre? Also one of my VU Bulbs has died and I would like to replace it but don't know how to access it as I'm very inexperienced in the realm of eletronics as have difficulty doing intricate stuff with my hands. Is it easy to change the bulbs? Also I noticed my pinch roller has been well loved in the past are there any substitutes availible? Or could I gently burnish the surface with some very fine wet and dry to give it a matte finish should the roller fail? Sorry for the barrage of questions !

    When did you get your 9191 then? I'm only 20 so am a bit of a newbie to the vintage world ! Regards Dan
     
  11. restorerjohn

    restorerjohn

    7
    0
    May 3, 2012
    Hey Dan, you are spot on, the idler is most likely glazed, but I have found they primarily shrink due to the rubber drying out and become hard and smaller. The problem with the 9191 and many other decks is that, no matter what you do in terms of lubrication, spring tension, burnishing, whatever, the idler is the root cause of essentially all the poor rew/ff issues and yes, it manifests itself in the last few metres of tape as the reel speed slows right down on the driven hub. I will let you in on a little secret I have used: belt dressing. Yes, the belt dressing used for fanbelts on cars. You get a cotton bud (q-tip) and put a tiny amount on the tyre only (obviously after you have cleaned the idler and the tyre). It is amazing and will solve your skidding issue.

    As for the bulbs etc, the 9191 is easy, pull off the knobs, unscrew the top and bottom of the aluminium front panel and remove the escutcheon (panel). the bulbs will be visible and easily removed (IIRC) and the idler is easy to attack.
    It has been a while on the 9191 for me.
    John
     
  12. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    CTF9191 Continues

    Hi John,
    Thanks for your tips I'm glad I was on the right track and will have a go with fan belt dressing in the future. I would so I'd never have thought of that. I plucked up the courage before getting your reply and went and the hood of the deck with my grandad who used to be a fibre optic engineer.. Upon removing the fascia and casing I could see the bulbs but am not really able to use a soldering iron so he was going to replace the lamps when I located the correct ones. However upon reassembing the unit I have been unable to put the top right fascia screw back in place so currently it is not entirely flush. However when I switch the machine on had a bit of a dissapointkment as now the meter lamp that was working has now gone out too. The well light still comes on and deck still plays but it knocked my confidence a bit. In view of this I spoke to a little indie electronics store near me who thought that a repair of the deck would cost around £40.00 and I thought this wasn't too expensive so I'd give it a try. The trouble is I have very shaky hands so am not very good with the intricate tasks like soldering yet. Can you suggest a lower end deck that might be a good place to start working on myself? Is this the best way to get a good grounding? Thanks for the advice I'll definately use the dressing tip and I'll post my results.
    Best Wishes Dan :)
     
  13. restorerjohn

    restorerjohn

    7
    0
    May 3, 2012
    The globes are extremely fragile at this age (the deck was made in 1974 IIRC). You only have to bump the deck and the filament will break. Don't think it was your fault, it would have happened anyway! It's actually good they are both dead, as you can never match the brightness of old and new anyway and they'd both be replaced in any case.
    I's stick with the 9191 to learn on. It cost you nothing, it's big and strong and has very little plastic to snap. Cheaper decks are smaller, more fiddly and less likely to be fixable easily.
    I have a 9191 service manual (5.17MB pdf) if you want it emailed- send me a PM with your return email address if you want.
     
  14. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    Marantz Motor

    Hey John,
    Thanks for the email I feel better about the lamps now :), If you could send me the service manual that would be great, sorry for the late reply, I haven't been on for a while,
    Cheers,
    Dan
     
  15. MuddywheelsMan

    MuddywheelsMan

    11
    0
    Feb 26, 2012
    Hi John,
    It won't let me fire a private msg to you am not sure why this is? I'll have another go later on...

    Do you still use decks? If so do you have a favorite??
     
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