Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Light when you don't need it and no light when you do.

Wilber256

Jun 30, 2019
9
Joined
Jun 30, 2019
Messages
9
Hello, I am having trouble trying to troubleshoot security motion detectors on outdoor lights. Is there a somewhat common way to troubleshoot outdoor security lights? If so where can I get my hands on a copy? I have lights that stay on, lights that won't come on, all types of problems. Can I order motion detectors and install one on the board in the one that comes on when first turned on but that's it until the next night. I do I know what to order and from where? Same with the little eye's on the board, I see dozens on eBay and I need one-three and how do I determine which to buy? I am trying to light up around the chicken houses where my Wife can go feed and gather eggs after dark and the lights be auto.

Also, have predators at night killing chickens and I hope to scare them away with lights coming on when they approach the coops and go off as they leave. There are no power problems it is in the lighting controls I can't afford to replace them but have to do something. If she were to step on a snake then I will inherit the egg gathering and feeding responsibility. Some of the lights are a few years old and some are old unused and the new one will not turn off. I do appreciate any and all help y'all can give me.

Thanks
 

Harald Kapp

Moderator
Moderator
Nov 17, 2011
13,743
Joined
Nov 17, 2011
Messages
13,743
Is there a somewhat common way to troubleshoot outdoor security lights?
I'm not aware of a guide dedicated to troubleshooting such lights.

Troubleshooting generally starts by looking at the desired function and comparing it with the actual function. Then work your way through available documentation looking for ways to tweak the existing behavior into the desired behavior. What seems to be a malfunction to you may actually be the desired operation as per design or setup of the sensors/lights. Only if the appliance (sensors/lights) definitely behaves different from the specifications is it time to delve deeper into the matter.

As a first step try to locate manuals for your sensors/lights. You may be able to find the using your favorite serach engine or post the type numbers here and some member may have a copy.
Next verify that the sensors/lights are suitable at all for your intended purposes. For example the on/off operation may be reversible by setting a jumper or a switch.
If the sensors do not gfollow their specifications it is time to troubleshoot by looking deeper into the matter. Opening the devices and looking for obviously defect components is a first step. But let's wait with that until you have had time to check the manuals.
 

Bluejets

Oct 5, 2014
6,939
Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Messages
6,939
Most of the elcheapo sensors will have a daylight adjustment so that lights will only activate at night or after the preset light level adjuster setting.

They also may have a sensitivityadjustment which is self explanatory.

Most include a timeout adjustment which is rather difficult to pin down to any precise ON time but rather somewhere in the ballpark.
Might be wise to note this adjustment seems to be rather logarithmic in nature.

Most will come on when power is first applied and require a settling time of around a minute or so.

Most will be required to be set to "minimum" time on for initial setup which is often referred to as "walktest".
In this mode one can wait for the light to go out, then start a walk test to determine the range of pickup.
In this mode the light only comes on for maybe 5 to 10 seconds. Word of warning though, any movement within range within the time will send a re-trigger.

Most of the elcheapos also will have an auto/manual mode.
Entry to the manual mode is to apply power, and then switch OFF and back ON again within 2 seconds.
As in what can happen during a storm which is why they can be a right PIA.
In this mode they are ON for forever and a day.
Cure is quite simple though, power down for more than 5 seconds, re-apply power and WAIT for the unit settling time.
Beware of the re-trigger though.
It seems whenever one is setting these things, every man and their dog decides to poke their nose in the sensor range to see what you are up to.

As Harald says.....find a manual for your particular device.
 

Wilber256

Jun 30, 2019
9
Joined
Jun 30, 2019
Messages
9
Thanks Bluejets, It appears from your post that the more bells and whistles one has the cheaper it is. I have like 5-6 of these things and one I took off my house that is maybe 10 years old and has never worked unless staying on all night is your cup of tea. I was hoping there is some type of procedure (steps) one follows to troubleshoot these pos’es. Like first check for 120v, second check bulb or vise versa. The check for power to and through photo sensor etc.

I have learned that these things are not common to each other in respect to voltage and operation. I would order a motion sensor and replace it on the board but none are alike in looks, voltage(?) etc. so I haven’t a clue on what to order and from where.
Same with the photo sensor. If it’s not working proper then would one just check for continuity and ignor voltage as replacement eyes are different voltages.

I want one on each side on the pole (north & south) so to cover 360 degrees if I don’t wherever I don’t cover is where the critters will come through and have chicken for supper.
At some point I will put a 120v outlet downstream so to have the motion detectors play a little R&R for the critters along with the lights. Thanks for your help.
 

Bluejets

Oct 5, 2014
6,939
Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Messages
6,939
Some of your comments are a little difficult to follow however as an example there are these on Ebay and possibly elsewhere as well.
They can be used in any AC mains voltage range from 90 to 220v so that should cure one of your problems.

I doubt they will cover 180 degrees even though it is quoted. One thing to be aware of is these sensors detect successfully, movement across the lens NOT into the lens.

Connection is fairly straightforward i.e. Line and Neutral and a switch wire for the load.
As I imagine you are unfamiliar with mains I suggest you get in touch with a local lecky ( yes REALLY)

Anyhow here is just one example below in the link.
If your units have been around for 10 years or more I would not even consider trying to work with them.
The new ones such as below are cheap and reasonably reliable these days.

As an added bonus they will have an instruction manual included as Harald says.

Additional details on the web site link.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Outdoor...hash=item48c6e8fce8:m:mN-LJ88ma-NGNkjeCPD_WGQ

PIR.jpg
 

Wilber256

Jun 30, 2019
9
Joined
Jun 30, 2019
Messages
9
Thanks, Bluejets, I know I sound stupid and not knowledgeable about legtricity but I do have a little knowledge bout it other than it will shock he** out of ya and they will turn it off if you don't pay your bill. I was a HVACR/Electrical/ Plumbing contractor for over 40 years until my disabling back injury in May 2005. Now, legtronics is a different story, I don't know jack about electronics. I always wanted to learn but never had the time and our local Community College taught some courses at night but they were designed for the advanced students to help them finish their degree early or for students that were having trouble with subjects in their daily classes. So I really never could start at the beginning as I needed to so I did not take any courses. All I ever did was lamp and install em.

I saw those heads on eBay and was scared of them but the good ones(?) are way too expensive for me surviving on a little disability check and my wife's little retirement check. That is the reason I wanted to replace the board mounted motion sensor and eye if that is where the problem appears to be. But not knowing how to troubleshoot these things I may be wasting money, not much but some. I suppose the most efficient and least troublesome solution will be to replace the heads with these Chinese specials especially before they go up to cover the import tax. A couple of fixtures do not have provisions for the 1/2 in. knock out the lamp holders and head are smaller and snap-in. But a uni bit can ream those out. I am going to ebay and order a couple to start with some are less than $4 and probably as good as the $5-$12 ones. Thanks to all for your help.
 

Bluejets

Oct 5, 2014
6,939
Joined
Oct 5, 2014
Messages
6,939
Good that you found some direction to work with.

However when I refer to elcheapo, it does include anything in the range you've mentioned.

Good ones in Aus are the Clipsal range and start around Au$120.00.
That said, you can expect some service from the elcheapo's otherwise they would have disappeared years ago.
One drawback is , as I mentioned, their manual/auto mode selection process which just happens to be the same as what happens in a thunderstorm. :eek:

Cost of parts for any would not even create a thought for a need to repair in the cheap range.
Even with the Clipsal, not many here know how to repair them or simply cannot be bothered.
I have done a couple as their internal circuit voltage reduction is done via a mains rated capacitor that seems for the most part to be what normally fails. Even then it is rare for them to fail and usually it is the front lens which deteriorates after 10-15 years.
 
Last edited:
Top