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LED lit cabinets

Harald Kapp

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Nov 17, 2011
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I see, I think I know what u mean.
I think we don't know what you mean.
Your liking unconventional expressions aside: Can't you see that your not using the standard terms of the trade confuses everyone, including you? I've told you before and I repeat: stick to common terminology!
 

Harald Kapp

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I was thinking I would drive it with something like this
This unit is not suitable. This unit is an open frame construction, high voltage terminals are accessible to the touch. The unit is meant to be built into a separate housing where all connections can be removed from accessibility. You need an indoor LED driver (something like this, but matching the requirements of your lighting in terms of power).
As @bertus said in post #9: switch only the output side. Using your picture this will look like so:
upload_2021-2-23_6-59-41.png

The main switch allows you to turn off everything. Probably not required (depending on the regulation where you live), but useful to save some energy e.g. when on vacation. Or simply pull the plug.
 

ratstar

Aug 20, 2018
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The main switch allows you to turn off everything. Probably not required (depending on the regulation where you live), but useful to save some energy e.g. when on vacation. Or simply pull the plug.

That looks like the kickstart wire. =)
 

Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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I will tie it straight in to the main power line. It won't be plugged in to an outlet.
This is why you need to be able to isolate the cabinet lights.
A fixed (hard wired) circuit needs its own isolation switch and fuse (UK).
I would be tempted to put the switch at the entrance to the room next to the room light switch.
Then switch the low voltage side at the cabinets as Bertus and Harald explained.
When you leave the room, you turn the light switches off as normal.

Martin
 
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