lead free solder

What happens if you use regular solder on something that was originally lead-free,
or you get the lead free solder on a regular iron?

I understand manufacturers keep separate lines as mixing the two is bad, but what
about in the repair world?

Does lead free solder mess up good quality tips or anything like that?

 

CL-

One problem occurs if you use leaded solder on surface-mounted
components. Lead amalgamates with the silver that is "fired" onto these
components, ruining their electrical connection.

I've read that a lead-contaminated solder iron can cause the problem
even if lead-free solder is used. I've never heard of the opposite case
with lead-free solder.

To be safe, I keep two sets of equipment.

Fred

 

Luckily, here in the US you can buy and use any type of solder ever made.
The issue which I've avoided but can't be ignored is that there's lots of
that RoHS crap floating around and I will at some point have to deal with
it.

A friend that's starting out in electronics and building some basic kits
wants to use a soldering iron.

I'm not clear on if I should just grab a spare and hand them a roll of
60/40, or get new tips for them and let them start "fresh" with some
lead-free sample packs from trade shows. It's all through the hole stuff,
and probably doesn't matter at al for what they're doing now.

Also are there any foolproof method of telling if lower production type
items are traditional or lead-free?

Boo

 

Huh? What the devil are you talking about?

 

This is not new. Tektronix used to include a bit of silver bearing
solder with their scopes so you wouldn't ruin the plated ceramic
terminal strips if you changed out parts.

Jeff

 

I guess I have another question based off what you're saying.

Aside from silver plated or specialty parts in an old scope, is there any harm done
in using real solder in a RoHS device?

Here's an example.

a resistor mounted through-hole has a bad joint. Normal repair just reheat the joint
and add more solder. No problem.

Say it's Rohs assembly this time around. Will regular 60/40 even melt and fuse with
the lead free stuff, or you do you need to remove the tin stuff and then resolder
from scratch, or is it really just best to resolder with lead free solder?

I've not tested it, because I really don't want to botch up my tips, sponges all
that stuff.

Interesting. I may need to tear apart some equipment I have and compare. It's
alleged the the new version is rohs while the last one are conventional.

 

So adding tin/lead solder to a silver component terminal turns the
connection into what, a non-conductive roofing shingle or something? I'm
pretty sure I would have heard from a customer or two if the thousands
of RoHS components I've soldered with 63/37 weren't conducting
electricity.

 

Well this sounds like good news. Thanks for pointing out the solder wick.
I don't generally use the stuff, but it's does a good job of removing as
much old solder as possible.

 

99% of the time, there's plenty of solder already there. So add FLUX and
reheat the joint. Same procedure for lead-free, of course.

 

It is not possible to do "long term" experiments , you have to do
accelerated aging and hope it is comparable. Now one way to accelereate
aging effects of solder integrity is to subject boards to vibration and
cycles of heating and cooling, er come to think of it ......

 

I'm just curious, how would this "threat of law" scenario play out?
Assume some authority finds out that you've got a roll of 63/37 stashed
under the floorboards, (or a bin of old leaded components) and you pull
it out on occasion for an illegal repair. Would the cops come? Throw you
in the slammer? Would you be facing jail time, a fine, revocation of
your business license?

I'm reminded of my business neighbor a number of years back, who had a
600 watt amplifier on his CB radio. (Legally, CBs are limited to 4
watts, IIRC) I called the FCC, gave him his name and address. They said,
"Sorry, we don't enforce that law. It's too costly."

I'm guessing you're in an analogous situation, and that short of hanging
a giant neon sign over your shop that says "**** RoHS, we still use
lead," you'd never be bothered. But, my guesses are often wrong ...

 

The usual procedure with laws like this is to find one small operator
who has made a mistake and smash him to pieces with the maximum of
publicity. It is supposed to frighten the others and is a lot cheaper
than chasing them as individuals.

It would have been a lot better if the manufacturers in other countries
had got together and told the EU that they were going to continue to use
lead in their solder. If Europe didn't like it, they could do without
the products. (Did I hear somewhere that this was exactly what the Swiss
watchmaking industry did - or did I imagine it?)

 

Smitty Two Inscribed thus:

Thats about the size of it ! ;-)

 

Wow, that is an awful story. Anyone working on the movie yet?

 

haha. make sure that neon sign has leaded glass, is pumped full of mercury
and uses a non GFCI transformer with a really low power factor.