LCD Projector voltage

[Mihai Frimu]

Hello,

I have an old sharp LCD and wanted to establish the voltage for the Metal
Halide lamp.

Unusual thing happened: When the projector is on without a lamp it make a
loud repetitive clicking sound for 1-2 seconds and shuts down. I connected a
digital voltmeter on a 200v scale and the the meter started to click with
the projector. The meter is now dead... I tried a 40w bulb connected as the
projector lamp and the bulb burns much brighter than it should, however the
projector doesn't click with the buld connected.

1. Anybody knows what the projector does while clicking ? High voltage
spikes?
2. Any idea of the voltages used for these projectors ? AC or DC
3. Maybe my test bulb was much brighter due to 110v DC instead of AC?

It is a Sharp XV-C10U projector (not that bright)

Thanks,

Mihai

 

[Paul Landregan]

Hello,

I have an old sharp LCD and wanted to establish the voltage for the Metal
Halide lamp.

Unusual thing happened: When the projector is on without a lamp it make a
loud repetitive clicking sound for 1-2 seconds and shuts down. I connected a
digital voltmeter on a 200v scale and the the meter started to click with
the projector. The meter is now dead... I tried a 40w bulb connected as the
projector lamp and the bulb burns much brighter than it should, however the
projector doesn't click with the buld connected.

1. Anybody knows what the projector does while clicking ? High voltage
spikes?
2. Any idea of the voltages used for these projectors ? AC or DC
3. Maybe my test bulb was much brighter due to 110v DC instead of AC?

It is a Sharp XV-C10U projector (not that bright)

Thanks,

Mihai

Initial strike around 20kV to ignite the Arc, hence the dead Meter. Running
voltage to maintain the Arc, depends on the lamp and projector. Typical
running voltages are 80-300V A.C. The higher power the lamp the higher the
running voltage required to maintain the Arc.

 

[Mihai Frimu]

Thanks for info,

One question: How would I match a lamp approximately, since the original is
an arm an a leg, and the projector is not worth it anymore. The original
lamp is marked 150W Metal Halide but can't find any aditional info such as
voltage...

Mihai

 

[Paul Landregan]

Thanks for info,

One question: How would I match a lamp approximately, since the original is
an arm an a leg, and the projector is not worth it anymore. The original
lamp is marked 150W Metal Halide but can't find any aditional info such as
voltage...

Mihai

make

Projector lamps are very expensive, as they are not just a bulb, but a
reflector and bulb combined. Well my Sanyo ones are anyway. You will not
gain anything by trying to replace it with anything but the correct part.
Metal Hallide lamps are under extreme pressure when in use, my car lamps are
rated at 20bar when in use. 2 bar when cold. I can only presume projector
Hallibe arc lamps are the same too, if not even higher.

 

[Mihai Frimu]

Thanks,

Found extensive info on diaudio.com :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...eadid=4445&perpage=15&highlight=&pagenumber=5

Also a place that refurbishes the lamp assemblies:
http://www.jopprugroup.com/plamp.htm

All in all, not really worth it for my old Sharp...

Mihai

 

[Mjolinor]

Hello,

I have an old sharp LCD and wanted to establish the voltage for the Metal
Halide lamp.

Unusual thing happened: When the projector is on without a lamp it make a
loud repetitive clicking sound for 1-2 seconds and shuts down. I connected a
digital voltmeter on a 200v scale and the the meter started to click with
the projector. The meter is now dead... I tried a 40w bulb connected as the
projector lamp and the bulb burns much brighter than it should, however the
projector doesn't click with the buld connected.

1. Anybody knows what the projector does while clicking ? High voltage
spikes?
2. Any idea of the voltages used for these projectors ? AC or DC
3. Maybe my test bulb was much brighter due to 110v DC instead of AC?

It is a Sharp XV-C10U projector (not that bright)

Thanks,

Mihai

This sounds familiar having gone through almost exactly the same thing when
I bought a Toshiba with a duff bulb, it turned out not to be the bulb but
the starting circuit. Anyway they are expensive because they usually come
with lots of ironwork and reflectors and stuff but I just replaced the bulb
by buying one off ebay that looked the same and removed it from all its
manufacturer specific ironwork and installed it in the Toshiba reflector,
used an odd arrangement of metal bars, wires and levers to allow me to move
it when it was installed and on, so that I could "focus" for max brightness
then fastened it where it worked best using exhaust cement. Very Heath
Robinson method but it has worked fine now for a couple of years.

Couple of tips

The bulbs don't like powering up and turning off but despite what you will
read they do recover if you leave them on for an hour or so (based on
experience, not theory of operation)

Don't touch the bloody thing when its on or starting, it bites.

 

[James Sweet]

Thanks,

Found extensive info on diaudio.com :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...eadid=4445&perpage=15&highlight=&pagenumber=5

Also a place that refurbishes the lamp assemblies:
http://www.jopprugroup.com/plamp.htm

All in all, not really worth it for my old Sharp...

Mihai

Not worth it? Is the projector damaged or something? They say lamps are
$175-$225, that's cheap, most projector lamps are $250-$400.

If you decide to replace the projector I'd be happy to take your old one off
your hands and put a new lamp in it.

 

[Mihai Frimu]

The situation with the sharp projector:

Bulb uses a dichroic lens, not a metal reflector. I would have to find a
bulb + reflector etc.
This projector was a cheap one, rated at 100 ANSI lumens...Yes you read well
100!!!!
If I could retrofit it for around 75$ or so OK but otherwise I'd rather
invest in a newer model.