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LCD Projector voltage

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Mihai Frimu, Jan 10, 2004.

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  1. Mihai Frimu

    Mihai Frimu Guest


    I have an old sharp LCD and wanted to establish the voltage for the Metal
    Halide lamp.

    Unusual thing happened: When the projector is on without a lamp it make a
    loud repetitive clicking sound for 1-2 seconds and shuts down. I connected a
    digital voltmeter on a 200v scale and the the meter started to click with
    the projector. The meter is now dead... I tried a 40w bulb connected as the
    projector lamp and the bulb burns much brighter than it should, however the
    projector doesn't click with the buld connected.

    1. Anybody knows what the projector does while clicking ? High voltage
    2. Any idea of the voltages used for these projectors ? AC or DC
    3. Maybe my test bulb was much brighter due to 110v DC instead of AC?

    It is a Sharp XV-C10U projector (not that bright)


  2. Initial strike around 20kV to ignite the Arc, hence the dead Meter. Running
    voltage to maintain the Arc, depends on the lamp and projector. Typical
    running voltages are 80-300V A.C. The higher power the lamp the higher the
    running voltage required to maintain the Arc.
  3. Mihai Frimu

    Mihai Frimu Guest

    Thanks for info,

    One question: How would I match a lamp approximately, since the original is
    an arm an a leg, and the projector is not worth it anymore. The original
    lamp is marked 150W Metal Halide but can't find any aditional info such as


  4. Projector lamps are very expensive, as they are not just a bulb, but a
    reflector and bulb combined. Well my Sanyo ones are anyway. You will not
    gain anything by trying to replace it with anything but the correct part.
    Metal Hallide lamps are under extreme pressure when in use, my car lamps are
    rated at 20bar when in use. 2 bar when cold. I can only presume projector
    Hallibe arc lamps are the same too, if not even higher.
  5. Mihai Frimu

    Mihai Frimu Guest

  6. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor Guest

    This sounds familiar having gone through almost exactly the same thing when
    I bought a Toshiba with a duff bulb, it turned out not to be the bulb but
    the starting circuit. Anyway they are expensive because they usually come
    with lots of ironwork and reflectors and stuff but I just replaced the bulb
    by buying one off ebay that looked the same and removed it from all its
    manufacturer specific ironwork and installed it in the Toshiba reflector,
    used an odd arrangement of metal bars, wires and levers to allow me to move
    it when it was installed and on, so that I could "focus" for max brightness
    then fastened it where it worked best using exhaust cement. Very Heath
    Robinson method but it has worked fine now for a couple of years.

    Couple of tips

    The bulbs don't like powering up and turning off but despite what you will
    read they do recover if you leave them on for an hour or so (based on
    experience, not theory of operation)

    Don't touch the bloody thing when its on or starting, it bites.
  7. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest

    Not worth it? Is the projector damaged or something? They say lamps are
    $175-$225, that's cheap, most projector lamps are $250-$400.

    If you decide to replace the projector I'd be happy to take your old one off
    your hands and put a new lamp in it.
  8. Mihai Frimu

    Mihai Frimu Guest

    The situation with the sharp projector:

    Bulb uses a dichroic lens, not a metal reflector. I would have to find a
    bulb + reflector etc.
    This projector was a cheap one, rated at 100 ANSI lumens...Yes you read well
    If I could retrofit it for around 75$ or so OK but otherwise I'd rather
    invest in a newer model.
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