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layout ir2110

Discussion in 'Electronic Design' started by [email protected], Aug 17, 2006.

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  1. Guest

    Hi, i'm making the board for an inverter, the specifications are
    voltage rail 300V and maximum current of 40A (the current in fact will
    be lower maybe 20A), here you can see the first rough copy of the
    layout http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/8744/ir2110fh8.jpg, in the
    left you can see the tracks and in the right the components, there is a
    hcpl2530 and an ir2113, the rest of components are capacitors,
    resistors and diodes, the layout is not finished so don't care about
    the thin tracks that you can see in the lm7815. So my question is what
    do you think about the layout? is gonna work?, what can i improve.?....

    I have read in some places that i need a really big copper plane for my
    gnd, but i'm not sure what really big means, i have readen the an 978
    and in the figure 7, connects the rectifier board via twisted wire to
    the power circuit board which has a power line plane and a gnd plane,
    so this mean that have i to put a board with a gnd plane and with a
    power line plane and then connect this board to the board with the
    igbt's?, i hope that everybody undestand what i say.

    There will be a board only with the igbt's and i will connect this
    board to the board with the ir2113 with a wire, any special cares
    should i have to connect the gate of the igbt's with the ir2113?.
    Thanks so much in advance.
     
  2. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    Talk to your board vendor. Get the thickest copper you can get.

    Good Luck!
    Rich
     
  3. We could give you a good price on Sir Ian Blair.
     
  4. Very good.


    Best regards,
    Spehro Pefhany
     
  5. wrote...
    Your design makes little sense, and it appears you misunderstand
    the issues surrounding driving the high gate capacitances of large
    IGBTs and MOSFETs, dealing with 2A gate-drive currents, and the
    little matter of wiring inductance around the gate-current path.

    Specifically, you generate and route to a 2-pin connector one each
    high-side and low-side gate-drive signals, but with no return paths
    for each one. Consider, for example, driving a large IGBT module.
    Each IGBT, both high-side and low-side, needs its own twisted-pair
    wire carrying a gate drive and a return-current emitter connection.
    That means pins 5-7 for the high side IGBT gate and emitter, and
    pins 1-2 for the low side IGBT gate and emitter need to be brought
    to the connector, which then has to have four pins rather than two
    as you are using. Do you see the huge error you have made there?

    In the world of high voltages and high currents, you must become
    aware of every current path and every nanosecond, and live with the
    formula V = L dI/dt, which for example, tells you that switching
    40A in 0.4us means you'll develop a disastrous voltage spike of
    100 volts! in a small 1uH of inductive wiring. It tells you that
    even if you get your inductance down to a minuscule 50nH, you'll
    still have a mean 5-volt spike to deal with. That's why, e.g.,
    the ir2113's COM pin (the return for the low-side IGBT, carefully
    connected to the IGBT's emitter with twisted-wiring to reduce the
    inductance), is generally not connected straight to ground, as you
    have done. In fact, the ir2113 was painfully designed to allow up
    to +/-5V offset between the Vss and COM pins for this purpose. A
    direct connection means some of the high 200A/us dI/dt gate-drive
    currents will flow through the ground wiring. That's bad.

    I could go on with other very important issues, but my wife tells
    me I have to stop now, get out the Saws-All, and rip open the wall
    behind our guest-room shower to see why it's leaking down into the
    gaping hole left in the kitchen ceiling by the plumber who charged
    us $250 to rip open said hole, and who couldn't find anything wrong
    after a few minutes cursory looking, and who left, taking his $250
    and leaving us with an ugly hole. They don't do ceilings, he said.
     
  6. He's missed a trick. They usually have 'relatives' who will put right
    the chaos they cause. For enough $$$.
     
  7. Jim Thompson

    Jim Thompson Guest

    My homeowners insurance won't pay for plumbing repairs, but does pay
    for damage caused by leaks... including the hole left by the plumber.

    But they did pay for a plumbing re-route when a pipe broke under a
    concrete floor, since the re-route cost was far less than replacing
    the ceramic tile throughout the whole house... style no longer
    available.

    Leaking showers are almost always due to a leaking "pan". In old
    homes in Massachusetts this is likely lead... Will RoHS get you ?:)

    In Arizona they typically use a thick plastic membrane shoved into the
    mortar, then mortared over when setting the tiles.

    Molded plastic showers don't have "pans"... the bottom IS the "pan".

    ...Jim Thompson
     
  8. In message <>, dated Sat, 26
    That's normal in England, too. I was a bit surprised; my friends were
    able to claim for eaves repairs due to a leak.
    The original gas pipe is embedded in the concrete raft on which my house
    is built. It leaked very slightly in frosty weather and the gas
    collected in the bathroom. I now have a pipe safely outside the house!
    Yes; lead pipe has been out of the UK plumbing world for several years,
    and lead-free solder has been in use for about 4 years, I think.
    We have that under whole buildings - DPM - damp-proof membrane.
    Indeed, until you drop something heavy on it. Like the wrench you need
    to fix the shower-head!
     
  9. Jim Thompson wrote...
    Actually, he did make such a suggestion, which I ignored.
    Interesting, but doesn't hitting up your insurance for these little
    things put you in jeopardy of a bit higher rate that can overwhelm
    your savings over a period of years? I've never been one to make
    insurance claims.
    I should have mentioned this is a shower head on a full-size tub.
    The tube is porcelain, not plastic, and can't leak, although the
    caulking could if defective. Fortunately a new series of tests
    found the long-standing problem before I cut open the wall: water
    dribbling around the tile and shower curtain, down the side of the
    tub onto the floor, along under the tub/washer-closet wall, to the
    hole in the floor for the washing-machine 120V conduit. Problem
    properly identified, solution at hand.
    Hopefully they do something similar here.
     
  10. Jim Thompson

    Jim Thompson Guest

    Well... This one totaled around $4K... as opposed to $15K-20K to
    replace all the floor tile.

    ...Jim Thompson
     
  11. krw

    krw Guest

    Sure, if the leak was due to a storm. I had 20+ year old shingles
    torn up, some metal ripped off, and a large tree taken down in a
    storm. My insurance paid without a flinch (made money on the deal
    too).
    "raft" = "slab"? We were looking at homes on slabs. No way, I
    want a basement, even though they want $35K more.
    Lead pipe? Four years? I don't think it's been allowed in the US
    for fifty. Your RoHS police have some cleanup to do! ;-)
    Bisqueen is the brand name here. It's a .006" layer of plastic put
    under concrete floors for a vapor barrier. It also add significant
    strength to the concrete.
    Well, don't do that. BTW, why do you need a heavy wrench to fix a
    shower head. They pretty much hand-tighten (with Teflon tape in
    the threads).
     
  12. krw

    krw Guest

    Small things, yes. Enough small things and you can be canceled;
    not good. Homeowner's (like life ;) insurance is certainly not
    something you want to collect on, but it's there for disasters.
    I have a similar problem and noticed it by the sheetrock in the
    bedroom underneath looking funky (wet). I ripped open the
    sheetrock expecting to find a disaster like the I found in the 1/2
    bath upstairs[*]. No rot, nothing. The only thing I can figure is
    the grout and/or caulking around the tub have failed (the only
    water seen was off the rim of the tub when my wife was showering).
    I'm in process of cutting out the grout from around the tub (what a
    PITA) and tiling the rest of the bathroom.

    [*] The upstairs 1/2 bath looked fine until I took up the vinyl
    floor. There was no sub-floor under the vanity. There was a leak
    that the previous owners had tried to hide with another layer of
    plywood and a dam of aluminum flashing and calk under the
    baseboards. Evidently they thought the leak was from the sink.
    Nope, there was a pin-hole in a pipe in the wall (a nail had been
    dropped inside and rotted through). THere wasn't enough water to
    show in the sheetrock in the kitchen below, but enough to rot out
    the sub-floor.
    Find out. BTW, alt.home.repair is a good group to ask such
    questions.
     
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