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Labelling Prototypes

I

Ian Bell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Then, a local decorative engraver would be the choice for that.

I already tried that - unfortunately none of them can handle a 3U high
19inch panel.

Cheers

Ian
 
S

StickThatInYourPipeAndSmokeIt

Jan 1, 1970
0
I already tried that - unfortunately none of them can handle a 3U high
19inch panel.

Then they would only qualify as decorative engraver wanna bes.

Try a good gunsmith. They can usually refer you to the right guy if
they do not perform such things themselves.
 
R

Ralph Barone

Jan 1, 1970
0
mpm said:
BTW, if anyone in the US would like a really great deal on some small
metal NEMA-4 enclosures (Hammond EJ-863's and nearby sizes), I can be
talked into giving a VERY good deal.
Brand spanking new. Never opened.

Many of our local trophy shops now have laser engravers. Give them any
printable file (Visio works well and knows about absolute dimensions)
and they will laser etch that into any material you like.
 
S

Spehro Pefhany

Jan 1, 1970
0
My shop makes custom scientific instruments, which means a new and
different front panel every few days. My go-to method is to use a 4"
wide vinyl label printer called the DuraLabel 4TTP, loaded with
brushed aluminum stock and chemical resistant ink. The result looks
awesome, and easily passes the fingernail test. In fact, it's durable
enough that I sometimes put the label on _before_ punching the holes.
Which brings me to the downsides. First, the calibration in the
horizontal direction is only good to a few percent. This may not seem
like much of a problem, until you notice that the label for your 19"
panel is 19.5" long. Or more. Or less. It's tricky to get holes to
line up, which is why I sometimes have to apply the label before I
punch. Second, the brushed aluminum label is only available in 4"
widths, which is great for 2U enclosures, but won't cover 3U. Also,
it can be hard to convince the salesman that brushed aluminum stock (P/
N 84-50) exists. All in all, though, I'd be in a heap of trouble
without it.
-Jim MacA.

Neat looking. Do you coat the panel afterward?
 
N

Nemo

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ian Bell asks
What do you guys use for labelling prototypes?

The key thing about labelling prototypes is that it must be done in such
a manner that Sales are unwilling to sell your working reference unit!

I thought my last project's "golden reference sample" was safe when it
came back from the test lab with dents all over it from impact tests.
However, to meet a sales deadline one of the managers prised it out of
my claws, had the dents hammered out, retouched the paint, and sent it a
quarter of the way round the globe.

I'll need to weld something unsightly onto the case next time, scratch
it up good and proper, drill a few "ventilation" holes in a carefully
non-straight line, and add a spurious heatsink to ensure it won't fit in
a normal box!
 
G

Grant

Jan 1, 1970
0
We make nice looking labels with an inkjet color printer and some sort
of adhesive paper stuff. They're good enough to use for product
photos, or to put on eval loaners for customers to play with. For
production, we just send the same file to a label company.

These photos used fake labels:

http://www.highlandtechnology.com/DSS/T750DS.html

http://www.highlandtechnology.com/DSS/P730DS.html

You can even include little translucent windows for LED indications.
They are a little denser on the paper protos than the real polycarb
labels.

Do you put clear adhesive plastic (like Contact) over the paper?
Might be able to use cutouts for LEDs then.

Grant.
 
I

Ian Bell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Then they would only qualify as decorative engraver wanna bes.

Try a good gunsmith. They can usually refer you to the right guy if
they do not perform such things themselves.


Remember I am in the UK. Gunsmiths are not common.

Cheers

ian
 
I

Ian Bell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Many of our local trophy shops now have laser engravers. Give them any
printable file (Visio works well and knows about absolute dimensions)
and they will laser etch that into any material you like.


Yes, I already tried that but none I can find can hand a 3U 19inch panel.

Cheers

ian
 
J

JosephKK

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for all the ideas. To answer some of the questions and add some info:

Yes, it is a one off

Yes it needs to look professional. For quantities I would normally get
it silk screen printed.

I am in the UK

I think the Avery and Brady clear label ideas are the same as the
transparent film I already have. Only problem with that is I find the
ink jet printing is not very dense so the label is hard to see against
the (nearly black) panel paint (and yes I am using bright colours).

The black background with the inkjet is killing you. It is a CYMK
(subtractive) color space that works best on white backgrounds. Try
color laser (opaque pigmented polyester powder, like powder coating
processes) to clear film instead.
 
I

Ian Bell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thsanks once again for all the replies and the numerous suggestions.

I am now considering engraving because there seems to be a number of
devices that will do PCB milling and front panel engraving and one that
even does front panel cut outs too. Such a device would allow me to do
all my prototype PCBs, front panels and cut outs on one device.

So, currently I am looking at the LPKF Protomate series, either the S42
of the S62. Anyone used these and what kind of price are they?

Cheers

Ian
 
A

AM

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thsanks once again for all the replies and the numerous suggestions.

I am now considering engraving because there seems to be a number of
devices that will do PCB milling and front panel engraving and one that
even does front panel cut outs too. Such a device would allow me to do
all my prototype PCBs, front panels and cut outs on one device.

So, currently I am looking at the LPKF Protomate series, either the S42
of the S62. Anyone used these and what kind of price are they?

Cheers

Ian

dubya dubya dubya dot dremel tewl dot calm
 
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