Intensity ripple on Tek 465B

[Sam Goldwasser]

I've wondered if low melting point solder like what comes in the ChipQuik
desoldering kit might work on thick-film connections.It wasn't available to
me at Tek.The conductive silver epoxy may be a better idea. Trouble if you
have to resolder the thick-film back into the motherboard.

I don't know but I have both indium solder (93C) and that ChipQuik stuff.
However, if I can identify one cracked joint, the silver Epoxy should take
care of it.

I have no intention of removing the hybrid from the mainboard! Silver
Epoxy on those joints as well if need be.

Alternately,you could fashion a small PCB to fit where the thick film
goes,and solder your resistors to the PCB. I've not tried this,though.

So far the cleaning is holding up. Fingers crossed.

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[JW]

I used a rubber tube to blow on various components in the HV area.

OK, I'm assuming you've found a way to heat the air first. I'm interested
in this setup - could you elaborate?

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

OK, I'm assuming you've found a way to heat the air first. I'm interested
in this setup - could you elaborate?

In this case, it wasn't a matter of heat. It turned out that simply air flow
made the difference since this occurred immediately after power on before anything
had a chance to heat up.

If I had to provide heat, a blow dryer would have been my tool of
choice

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Jim Yanik]

In this case, it wasn't a matter of heat. It turned out that simply
air flow made the difference since this occurred immediately after
power on before anything had a chance to heat up.

If I had to provide heat, a blow dryer would have been my tool of
choice

Note that your breath will have high levels of moisture in it,that could
alter the conductivity of the thick-film elements,especially if the thick-
film is dirty.

I used to use an ordinary hairdryer(folding travel style) at low heat,until
one of the cleaning people stole it.(along with my TI-30 calculator)

a paper cone narrowed the air flow to what I desired.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Note that your breath will have high levels of moisture in it,that could
alter the conductivity of the thick-film elements,especially if the thick-
film is dirty.

Could be part of the effect. Anyhow, it is still stable today.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.