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Insulation for the house.

Discussion in 'Home Power and Microgeneration' started by Ed Sebesta, Dec 25, 2006.

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  1. Ed Sebesta

    Ed Sebesta Guest

    I am looking at insulation for the house. I want to insulate to get the
    maximum insulation of the house. The house was built in 1920, and is shiplap
    construction. That is all wood instead of sheet rock. The walls are 1"X8"
    boards nailed to the 2X4s.

    Walls

    I see there is celluosic blow ins. I think they could rot, and they worry
    about corrosion from the flame retardants.

    There is fiber glass and mineral wool, which doesn't seem too bad, but not
    real super either.

    There are foams, but they usually don't mention that they put a ton of water
    into your walls. With cemetitious foams, how do they expand and contract
    with your house and the seasons.

    Attic

    I am thinking of polyisocyanurate boards, but how do I seal the edges to the
    joists so there is no leak around. Is there some guide on the internet on
    the very best insulation, and not what is cheap or what some industry
    association wants to promote. I want super insulation. I want to insulate
    this house for the future.

    Ed
     
  2. Guest

    Hi Ed,

    In regards to your attic, is the wiring up to code? I owna house
    built in the 1930s and was considering upgrading the insulation (rock
    wool) with blown insulation. However, when I had a contractor come out
    to give me an estimate on performing this work I learned that I'd have
    to upgrade my knob-and-tube wiring to code. If I didn't, I ran the
    risk of those buried wires overheating and shorting out. Estimates for
    the rewiring ran upwards of $2500 and, unless I planned on living in
    this house for the next 20 years, would never pay for itself.

    Brad
     
  3. Ed Sebesta

    Ed Sebesta Guest

    Yes,
    The house is completely rewired and per code.
     
  4. Ed Sebesta

    Ed Sebesta Guest

    Not a really helpful posting.

     
  5. Actually, it is, because it is the simplest, most cost effective way
    to insulate that house.
    Second best is to remove the inner wall covering and spray urethate
    foam on the inside of the outer sheathing, then redo the inside walls.
    4" of urethane is roughly as good as 6 of fiberglass or rockwool.
    Next best is rockwook cavity fill. Rockwool does not absorb water, and
    does not settle if it does get wet. Also, it does not support mold.
     
  6. You

    You Guest

    Burn the house to the ground and start over, it will be cheaper, more
    insulated, and done right, in the first place...........
     
  7. Ed Sebesta

    Ed Sebesta Guest

    You absolutely don't know what you are talking about.

    Ed
     
  8. Ed Sebesta

    Ed Sebesta Guest

    Your advice is typical for this group. I don't plan to return to the group
    again.
     
  9. LOL. Sometimes money isn't the real issue. I wouldn't dream of living in a
    house with knob & tube wiring - $2500 would give me a much better chance of
    actually _living_ in that house for the next 20 years. The stuff was state
    of the art once, but they didn't put the loads on it that you do - whether
    you insulate or not, those wires have a pretty good chance of overheating.
     
  10. Goodbye, and good riddance.

    sdb
     
  11. I can't help thinking he won't be returning to _any_ Usenet groups. Pretty
    poor attitude to survive long even in a polite group like this.
     
  12. About what?
    Knob and tube is NOT grounded. That is absolute truth.
    Insurance companies in many locales will NOT insure a house with knob
    and tube wiring. That is indisputable fact.
    Knob and tube wiring is also generally undesized. This is also FACT as
    the house was generally only wired for a total of 60 amps MAXIMUM.
    Many were far less, and the standard knob and tube system was a set of
    2 wires running end to end with circuits tapped in.

    As for causing fires - it is reputed to be a problem, but with the
    spacing of the conductors (generally over six inches) shorts are
    almost unheard of, and properly done connections will last a lifetime
    (mechanically twisted, soldered and taped). However, it IS easy for
    someone to do things wrong and end up with a "hot joint".
     
  13. I could have sworn you'd promised to leave us. As long as you're going to
    stay, try listening to a few people here - many of them actually know a
    great deal. We do realize that you have already said you don't have knob &
    tube wiring - but its in the nature of Usenet that just because you start a
    thread doesn't mean you own it, and Brad raised the issue of K&T wiring
    which makes it fair game.
    Yeah, and properly done, Aluminum wiring is safe too :-( (though, I guess
    it's the nature of Aluminum that it wouldn't stay safe as long as K&T can
    and has). As long as the K&T wiring remains a completely separate part of
    the home's system, it's probably OK. If anybody has ever tapped into it
    since it was first installed, or if anybody has ever damaged an insulator,
    I'd be worried.
     
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