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Installing PEX tubing

Discussion in 'Home Power and Microgeneration' started by Jeremiah D. Seitz, Mar 2, 2007.

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  1. Hi,

    I'm looking to replace my radiators with PEX tubing, but I was
    wondering if I had to replace the whole system at once, or I could do
    it zone by zone. Is there any reason the two types of systems can't
    exist on the same 'circuit'? Pressure requirements, etc?

    Thanks in advance,

    J.
    Jeremiah D. Seitz
    Omega Techware
    http://www.omegatechware.net
     
  2. The floors *are* wood, so your suggestion would probably be necessary.
    You've made my evening. Thank you!
    J.
    Jeremiah D. Seitz
    Omega Techware
    http://www.omegatechware.net
     
  3. Guest

    You might put fin-tube under a basement ceiling...

    Nick
     
  4. James Storm

    James Storm Guest

    Are you asking about replumbing your existing above floor "radiators"?
    Pex I think comes in various grades. Pick the one suitable for heating
    water and has an oxygen barrier built in to protect iron and steel
    parts. Even closed systems under pressure were getting excesss oxygen
    through the pex pipe.
    James
     
  5. Is that the copper pipe with aluminum fins, used for (older) baseboard
    heating, or something specific to a PEX setup?
    Thanks,

    J.
    Jeremiah D. Seitz
    Omega Techware
    http://www.omegatechware.net
     
  6. Pretty much. I wanted to test one or two rooms before going the whole
    nine yards.

    I think I understand what you mean about the diffusion barrier. I'm
    pretty sure that the only iron/steel in the system is the radiators
    themselves, but I'll have to check that to be sure.

    As it stands, we've got to bleed our system 1-2 times when starting
    the system in the fall, and another 2-3 times over the winter. Sounds
    like replacing the whole thing is the way to go.
    Thank you,

    J.
    Jeremiah D. Seitz
    Omega Techware
    http://www.omegatechware.net
     
  7. Understood. The grain of salt is firmly in hand at all times. I still
    appreciate all responses. Sometimes a consensus isn't as good as a
    debate when trying to find the facts. :)
    Actually, they're the older 'standup' type - blazing hot close to them
    and icy on the other side of the room. So, the operating temperatures
    are definitely not compatible, in other words?

    UPDATE: According to Radiantec, their 1/2" and 3/8" tubing can handle
    temps up to 180 degrees at 100 PSI. Not sure if I want to go that
    route, though.
    I did scout out some info last year, mainly the Radiantec site, and
    learned quite a bit just from their materials. Unfortunately, I don't
    recall reading anything about a piecemeal installation like in my
    original question.

    To be honest, I should have rephrased my question better. I was
    wondering if anyone here had actually done it. I was hoping to be able
    to test the concept with one room, then make a decision based on the
    results.
    Thankee!

    J.
    Jeremiah D. Seitz
    Omega Techware
    http://www.omegatechware.net
     
  8. Guest

    Copper with fins. Argo Industries sells it for about $2/ft, with a water-air
    thermal conductance of about 5 Btu/h-F-ft. It could work very well if warm air
    rises up through an interior wall and exits near the ceiling and return air
    falls back into the basement via floor registers near outside walls.

    Nick
     
  9. HVAC Guy

    HVAC Guy Guest

    Isin't PEX made by taking aluminum pipe and lining it inside with a
    layer of plastic as well as encasing it in a similar layer of plastic
    on the outside?

    If so, then it would make a very poor heat radiator, given that the
    plastic acts as a thermal insulator.

    Yes?
     
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