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Induction cooktop

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by Prudence90, May 15, 2020.

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  1. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    I need a circuit diagram or information on a Swiss-made V-Zug Induction cooktop which has a burnt component.

    An integrated circuit on the input (power input) board has blown its top off which means that I can't read its type. It is an 8-pin device which rather looks like a 741. It is marked as IC202 on the board. Also resistor R214 looks as though it has been overheated.

    Any help with these part nos. or even the offer of a cct. diagram would be appreciated.

    Ps. The maker's type no. is GK37TIMPS.
    Another number on its label is FN31038 010155
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2020
  2. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    Can anyone help with this please? What are IC202 and R214?
    Anyone with a cct diagram for this V-Zug induction cooktop?

    Regards
     
  3. Martaine2005

    Martaine2005

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    May 12, 2015
    Nobody can say what the reference designators refer to without a schematic.
    Have you tried the manufaturers website or contacted them?

    Martin
     
    narkeleptk likes this.
  4. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    Aug 21, 2015
    Nope . . .its being all in your hands.

    I might suspect that IC is being a minor, AC line operated power supply chip that has shorted down its internally enclosed power FET transistor and thereby blown / fraactured its plastic housing and also taking out a low value of resistor that WAS supplying DC operating power to it.

    BELIEVE me . . .You " AIN'T " just gonna find any massive amount and free information just floating around on your VZug exotic unit
    You have described what you can see . . . . .but HERE we can't see nuttin'.
    Give us a break and provide a GOOD closeup photo of that octa-chip from its top view and ALSO its cluster of surrounding parts, then we will have a place to start from in evaluating its function and what has probably happened . . . . IF . . .my initial RED statements surmisal hasn't already hit the nail straight upon the head.

    73's de Edd
     
    narkeleptk likes this.
  5. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    Yes I have tried the manufacturer's web site and have also contacted their service department. They can send out a technician who will replace the board(s). I guess it's difficult to do chip-level repairs on the road. I will do all I can to fix it myself before going down that expensive track.

    73's de Edd asks for a photo, in fact I have tried to download two of them but the site doesn't accept them. On looking through other threads there don't seem to be few if any photos on the forum. Are you asking me to email them to you?
     
  6. Martaine2005

    Martaine2005

    3,336
    912
    May 12, 2015
    Your image is too large. Resize/convert to 100Kb. Or use an image sharing site and post the link here.
    Or simply copy and paste into this text window.

    Martin
     
  7. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    CIMG2274 (3).JPG CIMG2277(8).JPG
     
  8. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    Here they are above. I used a program called PhotoScape to reduce the file size.

    Thanks to those who offered help.

    The culprit IC is top left on the main board.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
  9. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    3,070
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    Aug 21, 2015
    Prudence90 . . . .( and that makes you about 30'ish ? right . . . .and also, tell sister Patience . . .that Gomer sez HEY ! )

    Certainly looks like my industrial sized 30 in crystal ball was spot on in its pre prediction, it even being . . . . . sans photos.
    Initially, using the small photos overall coverage I am first seeing a standard clip in line fuse being missing and also, a slow blow chemical fuse ( round reddish brown case ?) , located just above it at the 10 o'clock position is missing / being pulled from the board.

    CIRCUITRY . . . . . BLOW BY BLOW RUNDOWN . . . .

    Looks like the top left quadrant of this PCB is devoted to being a minor STANDBY power supply*****
    AC LINE power comes in from your fusing and initially encounters the paired grey resistors and a couple of BLUE CY type ceramic disc capacitors. Then each leg of the AC goes into the phase opposed inductor windings of L200 choke . Then they need to feed AC into 4 discrete power diodes OR a packaged Full Wave Bridge to create 350'ish DC for the quad set of main raw DC BLACK E-cap cluster that you see there. It / they, are NOT being visible to me on the supplied photos angle of coverage. Then, there is being another set of BLUE CY type ceramic disc capacitors.
    Next, the raw DC voltage is passing to the primary winding of the YELLOW KYNAR insulated switch mode power transformer and the ends of that primary winding goes to the now BLOWN POWER FET's Drain being enclosed within the fractured IC202 case .
    That then leaves you with the now blown open, BLUE 12 ohm metal film power resistor .
    ( OHM it out from either of its lead ends to a meter probe piercing the insulation,at the very center of its resistive body, to then , hopefully, see if an intact 1/2 of it remains reading 6 ohms . )
    I sort of suspicion it to be connected in the final FETS Source link connection to power ground .

    Taking an ohmmeter and placing a probe on its right lead and measuring with the other probe lead, to see if that is being of lowest resistance to a negative lead of the 4 E-capacitor cluster nearby, would confirm that .
    OR if it is being connected to an E- capacitor + lead


    I ??? think ??? that I am seeing a keying gap cut out, at the top of the IC so that just mentioned R214 resistor, has its left lead being connected to IC pin # 6.

    Not that will help UNTIL the IC number is known . . . and I was hoping that a top shard of that casing would be intact enough to let you make out a part number of a posssible TOP45--- or -----TNY264----or -----LNK406 on it.

    I might guess that the board part number is being that paper tag of 75.475.522 stuck across the tops of the 3 gray cased caps.

    You did not give the model number of your hob and the parts site below even wants your units serial number . . . initially.

    https://www.vzug.com/ch/en/spareparts-for-b2c-page

    Some how, you need to get that IC202's stamped on top part number.
    Meaning a photo of same . . . on a good unit . . . . or you need to find a supplier that has one physically in hand that can be inspected.
    OR if you do find that factory or supplier that has one that can be visually inspected, then YOU are e- mailing / phoning that person / supplier and presenting yourself as Holly Golightly, secretary of ABC appliance repair and are being tasked for finding a V-Zug replacement board for your serviceman. HOWEVER he absolutely mandates that you check on the physical examining of the in stock board that he would be receiving.
    Because, he has had problems with IC202 exploding on two of the last three boards that he has replaced in the past, thereby causing time and cost loss call backs for another replacement.
    He says that there is being an upgrade to that IC202 circuitry . . .now, can you inspect your board and give you the numbers being on IC202's top.You forgot to ask him what they were . However, you can ask him, as he just radioed in, that he is enroute back to the shop now.
    " The Numbers are then received" . . . . . .then you check them with the serviceman . . . . . he " says" NO . . . thats being one of the bad / problem boards . . . you then just say to the supplier . . . . . I'm sorry, but I'm going to have to find one of the upgraded boards.

    *****
    The STANDBY power supply keeps the "brains / memory" aspects of our electronics working . . .
    The "sleep" aspects function of our computers . . . .tablets . . . I-pads. The remote functions of TV's -VCR's- DVD's -DVR's . . . Cable converter boxes . . . .satellite receivers . . . .clocks on microwave ovens,etc.


    Thaaaaaaaassit . . . . .

    73's de Edd . . . .



    My grand-daughter is so negative. I remembered the car seat, the stroller, AND the diaper bag. Yet all she can talk about is how I forgot the baby.

    .
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
  10. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    Thanks for the reply. I gave the serial number on my first post - it’s FN31038 010155.

    Just for the record: there are no blown/missing fuses. The circuit tracks underneath are continuous.

    V-Zug are arranging for a tech to call in. As soon as I get the call, I’ll ask him whether he can assist with part no./value without him actually calling in.

    The reason for buying this “exotic” top is I needed something to fit into a particular space and this was the only one.
     
  11. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    The resistor value is 68k while the i.c. is a switchmode controller DK1203. I found the i.c. after a lot of Googling and found that this controller is quite a common design, used for standby's in various equipments i.e. they take very little power.
    This i.c. is not available in Australia, it seems, and I am awaiting a couple from a supplier in Spain.
    The biggest problem has been removing the components from the board as the holes are plated through making the component leads very tight in the holes.
    On this topic, the boards are fibreglass and very tough and, so far I've haven't done any damage in trying to remove the components.
    Incidentally, I did not receive a call from V-Zug regarding a technician and they haven't replied to emails. I guess this is what you get from showing initiative and trying to repair your own equipment...
    Stand by for a final post when the DK1203 is installed and the Induction Cooktop is working.
     
  12. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

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    Nov 17, 2011
    As the component is broken anyway, my method is: cut the pins near the component, so you have a stub left to grip with pliers. heat the solder joints from the solder side and pull out the stubs one by one.
    Works much better than to try to remove all pins at once.
     
  13. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    I did do that but even then two of the holes remained blocked. Eventually I drilled them out; this may have taken away the plating so it will be necessary to solder both sides of the board to ensure connectivity, when the I.c.’s finally arrive.
     
  14. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

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    Nov 17, 2011
    This will work if the pcb is double sided. If the pcb has more than 4 layers, you will very likely not be able to contact the inner layers reliably :(
     
  15. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    Someone pointed out that the DK1203 does not match the pinout on the board so I'm still looking for the correct chip. There are many different ones on the web, all having the same function, so it's difficult the find the right one.
     
  16. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    Just an update on the state of play - including increased pressure from the ‘boss’ to have an operating cooktop.

    On checking the price of a new board and considering that the unit may still not work even after replacing this expensive part, I purchased a new Bosch cooktop. This is slightly larger than the V-Zug one but will fit after making the cut-out slightly bigger.

    So I will continue to look for the I.C. but with less pressure...

    I am not blaming the brand itself for reasons which will shortly become apparent but I am not happy with V-Zug’s lack of assistance in identifying the I.C.

    The whole reason for the problem from the start was cockroaches...

    Firstly, a large chip on the control panel (called Operating Unit) was infested with the pest causing an error code. This was cured using circuit board spray. Only later did the I.C. (I.C. 202) on the power board (called Filter Board) fail - for the same reason - stopping the unit from powering up.

    So to be on the safe side, both boards would need to have been replaced. There is a third board as well...

    So without the simple act of replacing I.C. 202 first, there was no guarantee that replacing the board(s) would have made the cooktop work.

    Interestingly, cockroaches seem to prefer warm areas, what with I.C. 202 being powered up continuously as part of back up circuit and the Control Panel I.C. also - powered waiting for a control to be pressed.

    A similar fault occurred with an electric kettle base here.

    It’s a pity the manufacturers can’t place fine mesh over all openings of an Induction Cooktop, to keep out pests while still allowing airflow.

    Incidentally, I get an error code when trying to post an Avatar.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2020
  17. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,313
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    Nov 17, 2011
    It's all about money and (hopefully) pests usually not being present in a kitchen.


    Which error code? What size is the image? How big is the avatar's file? What filetype is it?

    Image size less than 400 × 400 should be o.k. You can try bigger ones but I cannot predict how the system will react.
    File size should be less than 500 kB (I don't know an exact limit).
    File type should be jpg, gif or png.
     
  18. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    Might have misread the instructions in "Would you like to upload an Avatar?" Error code comes up when clicking this page I guess you have to find your avatar first...

    Cockroaches: not all that easy to eradicate. They're gone and then suddenly reappear.
     
  19. Harald Kapp

    Harald Kapp Moderator Moderator

    11,313
    2,593
    Nov 17, 2011
    If
    is supposed to be a link: it isn't.
    To create a link mark the text that is to be linked and press the chain (link) element in the menu bar. Then enter the link address in the window that opens.
     
  20. Prudence90

    Prudence90

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    May 15, 2020
    Thank you.
     
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