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I have a question about a dsc 1500 alarm system.

Discussion in 'Sensors and Actuators' started by mmaster, Dec 24, 2019.

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  1. mmaster

    mmaster

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    Dec 24, 2019
    just recently noticed that zone 2 and 3 were lit up read the manual pressed *2 and the trouble light comes on steady with no code on the panel . I have checked all doors ,windows replaced battery and replaced the three fuses and they still stay on . Anybody got an idea what's wrong or how to fix it. Thanks for the help.
     
  2. Martaine2005

    Martaine2005

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    May 12, 2015
    We have an alarm expert on the forum. As soon as he sees your question, he will be able to help you.

    Martin
     
  3. mmaster

    mmaster

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    Dec 24, 2019
    Thanks Martin, I have read and replaced everthing I can think of and I called DSC and they said I needed a new system was to old to trouble shoot . lols
     
  4. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

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    Jun 20, 2010
    When a zone light is lit, the Control Panel thinks something on that zone (door, window, whatever) is open. I'm going to assume that the keypad's "Ready" light is NOT on, even though you didn't mention it. If the "Ready" light _is_ on, this would be the time to mention it because that changes the symptoms significantly.
    What, exactly, is on zones 2 and 3? If windows, what kind? Double-hung sash? Casement? Sliding sash? Other?

    Statistically, the most common cause for a door or window to be faulted (showing open) is a misaligned or missing magnet that lets the magnetic switch (aka "contact") know whether the door/window is open (faulted) or closed ("normal"). Go to the door(s)/window(s) on Zones 2 and 3 and find the alarm system switches, and magnets if any. I can't tell you what they look like, because there's a variety of switch types used. If there are multiple openings on the faulted zones, not all the doors/windows necessarily have the same type switches. _Usually_ in the '90's, when your system was installed, the switches were recessed instead of surface-mounted, but you'll have to look at the openings on Zones 2 & 3 to see--assuming that 2 & 3 are burglary perimeter zones.

    If you can't find or recognize the switches/magnets on the door/window frames/doors/sashes, then pictures of the openings (if applicable) would be helpful. Also helpful would be a picture of your Control Panel (NOT the keypad) so I can see what's connected to the screw terminals along the bottom of the PCB (Printed Circuit Board).

    About your system being "too old": When a dealer says a system is "too old to troubleshoot", it's a euphemism for "My guys are too inexperienced to troubleshoot models they aren't familiar with." That's BS, pure and simple.
    It's highly unlikely that anything is wrong with your 1500 Control Panel (CP). The problem is far and away more likely to be in the protective loops somewhere, i.e., the zone wires that start at the CP and run out to the individual protected openings and back. If you bought a new CP with all its new bells and whistles and toys, the problem would still be there until you fix whatever's going on in the protective loops for Zones 2 & 3.

    Your problem may be as simple as a misaligned door/window magnet---assuming that doors /windows are what is on those zones. There are half a dozen other things that can be on protective zones, and there are lots of other things that can be wrong within the protective loops; but I'm waiting to hear back from you before I go any further in describing what else to look for. Describing ALL the possibilities and how to go about troubleshooting for each of them would require writing a book.

    EDIT: Almost forgot: I'm guessing you looked in the User Manual before. I recommend you google and download a copy a copy of DSC 1500 Installation Manual, if you don't already have one. It's a lot more informative. You still may need to consult experts, because that manual is written for professionals who are familiar with the field, not DIYers; but it can be a handy reference manual.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2019
    Martaine2005 and bertus like this.
  5. bertus

    bertus Moderator

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    Nov 8, 2019
    ChosunOne likes this.
  6. mmaster

    mmaster

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    Dec 24, 2019
    Ok after reading your responce now I was on the hunt. One window frame in the master bed room is missing a magnet there is a hole in the frame but nothing's there I went to the other window and felt I took it out and it's a magnet I guess . I keep trying to upload a pic of it but keep getting a error message. Its about the size of a ink pen and 1/2 inch long with a magnet on the end. Any idea when I can get one of there or is there something else I can use ?
     
  7. mmaster

    mmaster

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    Dec 24, 2019
    I found some on amazon I think this will fix it will install when it comes in. If i still have trouble I will repost but i printed out your responce and gonna use it as work sheet. Thank You for the reply it's been helpful as all get out i.wont be calling dsc for help anymore I'll just come here. Once again Thank You. MMaster
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 27, 2019
  8. mmaster

    mmaster

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    Dec 24, 2019
    Hey Bertus I made a make shift contact and it works perfect ,the ready light is the only light on now. got a new sensor ordered but until now this will.work. I did print off everything on the dac 1500 I.could find and your rt it's not user friendly no no means. Again I really appreciate all the help told.my wife was a 2 dollar repair if someone had of come checked the system would have been 200 or more and probably couldnt fix it just sold me a new system. I got 2 big yard dogs dont really need a alarm but it gives her peace of mind. Once again thank you for your help and expertise. Matt Master
     
  9. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

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    Jun 20, 2010
    Glad I was able to help, Matt. Thanks for letting us know the outcome. Feedback always helps.


    For some problems, you need to know the Version number of the Control Panel, but for faulted zone problems like this one, the troubleshooting protocol and fix is pretty much universal across all makes & models; and Versions. The only reason I wanted to see a picture of the CP screw terminals was that just in case we had to start troubleshooting a zone loop with multiple openings on it, I wanted to know if the EOLRs (End-Of-Line Resistors) were installed actually at the end of the loop (where manufacturers say to put them), or in the CP box (where sensible installers put them).
     
    Martaine2005 likes this.
  10. mmaster

    mmaster

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    Dec 24, 2019
    Hey Bertus I have one more question , our home phone system is horrible 2 tin cans and a string would be better, there is a phone line attached to the system but I cancelled home phone service half the time no dial tone or just static. I read there is a wireless module what would I need to change to get a alert on my cell phone if we weren't home.

    is rated



    resellerratings.com link


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    HOME / PRODUCTS / DSC RF5132-433 THIRTY-TWO ZONE WIRELESS RECEIVER MODULE
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    This module adds wireless capability to any DSC Power Series alarm system. This module allows any number of zones on a given system to be wireless. Allows for use of an DSC wireless sensors or remotes. Connects to the system keybus just like a keypad and can be mounted near the main control board or remote located up to a 1000 ft.

    Note: You can use only one wireless module per system. This module is available built into some keypads (RFK5501 and RFK5500). These built in the keypads offer the exact same functionality except their range may not be quite as good simply because the pads are generally mounted about 4 ft. up on a wall and wireless receivers are best placed near the ceiling.

    DSC wireless operated on 433 Mhz. Current draw for this device is 50 mA.

    DSC RF5132-433 Installation manual

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  11. mmaster

    mmaster

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    Dec 24, 2019
    I.couldnt figure out how to delete all the dsc stuff but I.was wondering can i upgraded the computer board in the cabinet to a dsc 1864 with a wireless module could I receive alarm notices on my phone ? just change
    the card keep my existing keypads smoke and glass sensors. If were not home wont or dont know.if the alarm went off. Thanks if you know. MMaster
     
  12. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

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    Jun 20, 2010
    Okay, a few things to understand:

    One, the Alarm Industry jargon is different from computer/internet or mobile phone jargon. When we say "wireless" in the Alarm Industry, we're talking about local wireless, i.e., wireless sensor-cum-transmitters on doors and windows sending signals back to RF Receivers connected to the Control Panel, to let the CP know when said door/window is open or closed. "Wireless" in alarm-speak has nothing to do with communicating with a Central Monitoring Station, or with the User's mobile phone.

    By the way, also in Alarm Jargon, when we say "Control Panel", we're talking about what you call the "computer board in the cabinet", not the keypad, which we call the Keypad. The keypad is just the interface between the User and the CP (Control Panel).

    The modules you show above are all for local wireless zone expansion, i.e., adding more zones to your system without having to run new wires to new doors, windows, motion sensors, glassbreak sensors, etc. None of them are supported by your DSC 1500, which can only handle 6 hardwired zones.

    Two, there are devices that can be added to newer Control Panels, like the DSC 1864, that give it the capability to send notification directly to your mobile phone, as well as let you use your phone to query and manage your CP. Google EnvisaLink 4 and check it out.

    Three, hardwired zones are compatible with all professional-grade control panel models, old or new, although you will probably have to replace the End-of-Line Resistors (EOLRs) in the zone loops. Those vary with make & model, and will have to match the new CP.

    Three, if you upgrade your 1500 Control Panel, you will need to replace your keypads. Unlike Ademco/Honeywell panels, DSC uses a wide variety of KPs that have to be matched with its wide variety of control panels, and almost every time they come out with a new improved CP, it's not compatible with earlier model keypads.

    Alarm techs all have their pet brands, and lot of them favor DSC. I personally favor Ademco (now Honeywell) brand because every new upgrade in control panel they've come out with, in the last 25 years or so, has been back-compatible with older keypads and local RF Receivers: Ademco/Honeywell has the industry's best record for making their controls and peripherals back-and-cross compatible. If a client has any Ademco/Honeywell system that's no older than 25 years, no matter what model, then I know that a new Ademco/Honeywell Control Panel is compatible with the old KPs.

    Ademco/Honeywell panels also support the EnvisaLink 4 module, and can be monitored and managed from your mobile phone, just like the newer DSC panels. If you're going to upgrade your system, I recommend you switch to Ademco/Honeywell--you'll have a better chance of not having to replace your keypads when you upgrade again 25 years from now.
    Just my $0.02 worth. If you're Canadian and want to keep buying Canadian, by all means stick with the DSC brand.

    EDIT: Btw, my screen name is ChosunOne, not bertus. That's another poster.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2019
    Martaine2005 likes this.
  13. mmaster

    mmaster

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    Dec 24, 2019
    That's exactly why I asked. I'm gonna go with your recoomendnation. It's time to upgrade will call and get a adecco system this was good 20yrs ago but really outdated. Thanks for your expertise advise. MMaster
     
  14. intwoit

    intwoit

    3
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    Sunday
    Noobe here

    I have a dsc 5010 control panel and looking for replacement smoke detectors 2 wire, with sounders. I have looked for some and they require a polarity reversal can a 5010 panel support this, and can it accept CO detectors
     
  15. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

    397
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    Jun 20, 2010
    (1) The DSC PC5010 Control Panel supports pretty much any 2-wire smoke sensor that is made for alarm systems. I happen to favor the System Sensor brand, whose 2-wire model with built-in sounder is model # 2WTA-B:
    https://www.systemsensor.com/en-us/Pages/2WTA-B.aspx
    It requires no polarity reversal module, which is mostly used with smoke detectors that are not part of an alarm system. The function of the polarity reversal module is to trigger all the sounders in the fire circuit whenever one detector is tripped---the smoke sensors used in alarm systems don't all need to sound, because the system sounding device (usually a loud siren) alerts all parts of the premises.

    Be aware that on a 2-wire smoke circuit, all smoke sensors need to be the same model. See "2-Wire Smoke Detectors" on PC5010 CP-01 wiring diagram:
    file:///home/chronos/u-08f56d63679244a13e9ca1666460403ed20c96b8/MyFiles/Downloads/Power832_CP-01_v3-2_IM_EN_NA-UL_29034674_R001.PDF

    Usually users do best to replace a smoke sensor with the same model, but if you need to replace one or more with a different model, you need to replace all of the 2-wire sensors on a given circuit with the same model: DON'T mix different model sensors on a 2-wire smoke circuit.

    (2) The DSC PC5010 can use CO sensors, but they should NOT be mixed on the same zone as smoke sensors: Smoke/fire alarms and CO alarms are different things and need separate zones to be distinguished, so that you and responding agencies (fire/medical/police) know which emergency you/they are responding to. If your local fire dep't responds to a fire alarm and finds it's actually a CO alarm, they might get miffed.

    So if you don't already have CO sensor/detectors on your system, you'll need to set up (program) a separate zone. CO sensors are wired the same as 4-wire smoke sensors/detectors, so you can use the wiring diagram in the Installation Manual as a guide.
     
  16. intwoit

    intwoit

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    Sunday
    Thanks very much for the information, it is very helpful. Will have to change 10 smokes is there a good place to buy them? I like the idea of all smokes beeping, since I have my92 yr mother in law living with us and she is kind of deaf, any thoughts of how to handle.

    Again I really appreciate al the info. I did the install of the system 20 years ago and still works great.
    Best,
    Al
     
  17. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

    397
    108
    Jun 20, 2010
    @intwolt, my apologies for taking so long to reply, but I was involved in traveling. Now that I've arrived, I can catch my breath and answer questions.

    I'd just suggest searching online for the model number I mentioned. I'd recommend finding an actual alarm systems parts dealer, and not eBay. Do NOT buy used smoke sensors: they have a definite lifespan after they're unpacked from their sealed packaging, even if they aren't connected up and "working".

    If your existing smoke sensors are the originals from 20 years ago, they're long overdue to be changed. Maximum lifespan they can be considered reliable is about 10 years.

    I think you can wire a reversing relay into the loop--TBH, I've never done it, because for a home system, if you can't hear the siren sounding, it's probably because you have an external siren and not internal, and a home big enough that you don't hear the external siren that well at one end of the house.

    A better internal noisemaker in the vast majority of homes is to add an internal siren, centrally located, that will get a hearing-impaired person's attention even better than all smokes sounding, no matter where she is in the house. The wiring's a lot simpler too. Depending on how deaf she is, you might also think about adding an internal strobe light to the same "Bell" output as the siren.

    One caveat: You need to make sure you know if you have (a) Siren(s) or (a) Speaker(s) as your sounder(s). A siren is a combination of a driver and a speaker. Some systems have self-contained sirens, which are just speakers with the drivers built into the same housing. Other systems use a driver module in the control box, that drives the speaker(s) mounted outside or wherever you've put the sounders.

    If
    you're currently using self-contained siren(s), then as long as you don't exceed 700 mA total current, you can just add another internal siren to the "Bell" output: Observe polarity.
    If you're currently using an independent driver to drive speaker(s), then you need to add any new speaker to the output of your driver (no polarity). BUT, be sure the total resistance of all the speakers isn't less than what the driver is rated for. Most drivers are rated for a minimum of 4Ω, so f8or example if you have two 8Ω speakers, you can wire them into parallel to the driver output, giving a total resistance of 4Ω.
    And that's as far as I'm going to go into that IF-THEN tree until I know more about what you're working with, and how you want to go about it.
     
  18. intwoit

    intwoit

    3
    0
    Sunday

    Thanks for the info, you make some excellent suggestions. The system I have is a DSC 1510 with 3 Alpha pads, 19 zones, smokes which are ESl. I like the idea of a strobe and sounder, do they make a combo unit?
    I am in California, Los Angeles to be exact
    Again thanks for your information and help.
    Best Al
     
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