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I have a manual battery charger quit working

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by Michael Parkman, Oct 27, 2016.

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  1. Michael Parkman

    Michael Parkman

    3
    0
    Oct 27, 2016
    I was using a Shumacher SE 82-6 battery charger in an electrolysis tank and left it on too long. I am not sure if this model is fused, but no DC volts are found on the low side. Shumacher does not give any information on a replacement fuse or transformer for this model. In fact they will not provide a wiring diagram. I do have a transformer voltage 115/28. As you can see the DC volts are more than twice that of the BC's volts. I would like some advise on where to get a wiring diagram and could this transformer work in the battery charger.
     
  2. Bluejets

    Bluejets

    4,271
    907
    Oct 5, 2014
    Well, in the instructions they did warn you to only use for charging lead acid batteries.:)

    Besides that, in the manual they quote this ..........

    This battery charger is equipped with a self-resetting circuit
    breaker. This device protects the charger from temporary
    overloads. In the event of an overload, the circuit breaker will trip
    open and after a short cooling off period will reset automatically.
    This process is known as cycling and can be recognized by an
    audible
    clicking sound.

    Did you check for this being open circuit at all?

    In case you don't have one, this is where the manual resides.......
    www.batterysales.com/downloads/SE-82-6.pdf

    And no to the refit transformer......
     
  3. Michael Parkman

    Michael Parkman

    3
    0
    Oct 27, 2016
    Three leads exit the low side two go to the circuit breaker and the third goes to the ammeter. There is no power getting to the circuit breaker. Thanks for the advice on the transformer. I think I'll exit here and please no more comments!
     
  4. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,940
    1,246
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Michael Parkman . . . . .

    With your mention of somewhat of an extended use time.
    With the unit unplugged, check my two wires at the pointers that go to a thermal temp switch mounted against the power transformer core.
    There is ALSO the thermomechanical switch which makes a noise . . .not of our current concern.

    In your case I think that you are dead in the water before even reaching the transformer secondary, because if the item that I mentioned having opened up, therefore . . . .no power to the transformer primary.

    If your transformer doesn't smell / stink like an overheated old inductive fluorescent lamp ballast . . . .and I don't think that it will . . . you will still be in business, with the original power transformer.
    And I think that my dealings with 5 Schumacher units amongst our families, within long time periods, I do find them to be quite hardy..
    If confirming that fault, initially use 2 clip ended test leads to get your DVM placed in 10A AC amps configuration to see just how much AC line power amperage is needed at a hefty 6 amp load on your secondary battery side.
    Run the unit awhile to confirm no odor emanating forth from the power transformer . . .which I don't expect.
    Then use the shown fuse clip/holder and a standard fast blow fuse rated at about 1 1/2 the measured primary current pull.
    Then give that unit a shake down on the safety of a concrete floor.
    If successful and getting long runtime, but possibly wanting to replace the thermal fuse, contact me for more specific how-to details .
    Or come back if any more ?'s.

    Your Schumacher . . . .

    h8ghPCu.jpg

    73's de Edd.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 29, 2016
  5. Michael Parkman

    Michael Parkman

    3
    0
    Oct 27, 2016
    Hi 73's de Edd, You were right about the fault was in the thermomechanical switch. It worked fine after it was jumpered. I ran the charger at 12 volts and 2 amps and got a reading of 7.79 amps. So 1.5 X 7.79 = 11.685 or a fast blow fuse of 12 amps. I plan to fuse and run it Monday. And yes I would be interested in replacing that fuse. Again Thanks very much for your help.
     
  6. Bluejets

    Bluejets

    4,271
    907
    Oct 5, 2014
    Maybe you should have read #2 when I suggested the exact same thing. :)
     
  7. Dadr

    Dadr

    2
    0
    Sep 22, 2017
    Hi 73's de Edd, et al

    I'm into almost the same repair on a Schumacher SE-60. The unit was dead, and after opening it I discovered that one of the button diodes had melted its solder and fallen off the heatsink. It was shorted. I replaced that diode, but the transformer primary was also not getting any power. I pulled the tape cover away, and found the thermal switch and a thermal fuse. The thermal switch is closed and I will test it with a hair dryer to make sure it's OK - but the fuse was crumbling, and I am not able to get any rating off of it. I've inserted a pic with a thumbnail below.

    In the units you've gotten into, did you ever notice the temp and amp rating on the fuse?

    Thanks and Best Regards,
    Dadr

    IMG_4186.JPG
     
  8. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,940
    1,246
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir DADR . . .
    Were you able to get another SET of mini hockey puck diodes . . . as it would be MOST desirable to change as a set of identical dodes.
    The thermal unit protects from gradual temperature rise of the transformer up to that 115 degree threshold.
    The square chemical unit protects from a HEAVY current pull . . . which your shorted diode definitely presented.
    The unit was being a 5A unit at ~115- 130 deg cent in a radial U2J case
    Available from DIGI key
    OR from USA electronics suppliers that are providing the NTE line of replacements as a NTE8015.
    OR from the KSL line of units from the Alibaba groups of suppiers in China.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-AUPO-...292623?hash=item283fa24b8f:g:y~gAAOSwIC1Zu2d-

    73's de Edd
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2017
  9. Dadr

    Dadr

    2
    0
    Sep 22, 2017
    73's de Edd,

    Thanks for pointing out matching the forward voltage drop among the diodes! There's good and bad news there. The good news is I bought a bag of 10 of them, and the bad news is that they are a BEAR to solder to the heat sink - even with my handy Weller 140W gun.

    About the thermal protection... Thanks again for the pointers to the AUPO thermal fuse. That looks exactly like the model that was in the transformer. Since my post I also found the data sheet on the Pepi J thermostat, and the code on it says it switches at 130C. That makes me think I should get the fuse at a higher temp than that. Something like this one:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/172213381600?chn=ps&dispItem=1 at 150C. I'm thinking that would match up to a Class 220 transformer, which lines up with the application of the charger as a 50A starting assistant.

    Sound reasonable?

    Thanks Again!
    Dadr
     
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