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How to test if UFH controller is functioning

Tha fios agaibh

Aug 11, 2014
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You could hook the valve to 230v supply and measure valve current as a reference.
Set Fluke to ac A and insert opening over one wire. It should only read a few ma.

If it's drawing current, the valve is working.
 

brandnewb

Nov 30, 2021
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Have you verified fuse is good?
yes, when I tested the fuse using the fluke in ohm/resistance mode I can hear it beep. That indicates there is a closed circuit

You could hook the valve to 230v supply and measure valve current as a reference.
Set Fluke to ac A and insert opening over one wire. It should only read a few ma.

If it's drawing current, the valve is working.
great, I will let you know in a bit once I am back in the garage

Yeah when I hook the valve directly to the ac power I can see it is drawing current. I have used the fluke and the bigger one.
The valve is not in frame on the photo though ;(
 

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Tha fios agaibh

Aug 11, 2014
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Ok so you know valve works.
Next measure voltage. Put one lead on incoming line blue neutral and see if you have 230v on both terminals of the thermostat when it's switched on.
 

brandnewb

Nov 30, 2021
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yes the valve draws 230 volts. I checked that earlier as well

ahh ok sorry misread you. let me read again
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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You have that DT9205, being in its logical ohmmic range, for sure you don't want it in the diode / beep function.
Do you have any electronics with a 47K ish resistor on board , or series resistors arrangements to test your meter with.

A COMPLETE OTHER THOUGHT . . .
On that thermostat, at the bottom mount point of the thermal sensing bi metallic strip, then, to the bottom right diagonally, there is a blue metal film resistor mounted vertically, might one of its leads end up connected to one of the terminal strips two bottom screws ?
 

brandnewb

Nov 30, 2021
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On that thermostat, at the bottom mount point of the thermal sensing bi metallic strip, then, to the bottom right diagonally, there is a blue metal film resistor mounted vertically, might one of its leads end up connected to one of the terminal strips two bottom screws ?

I'll check that out if still relevant after the following

In other words do you have 230v at thermostat?
Now we have a possible problem. There is but 1 volt measured when I hook up the fluke in VAC mode directly to the thermostat terminals.
I have the other mmeter in amp modes in between the valve and it draws no amps at all. But that could be explained due to that the thermostat circuit is not closed.
 

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Tha fios agaibh

Aug 11, 2014
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Not sure we're on the same page.

Hook it up like before. Next measure thermostat terminals (hooked up) with respect to blue (neutral)

Edit:Check one thermostat terminal at a time.. not both together

One thermostat terminal should always be hot and the other hot (230v) when thermostat is calling for heat (cold in room)
 
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brandnewb

Nov 30, 2021
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Edit:Check one thermostat terminal at a time.. not both together

Regarding the fuse. Apparently the glass fuse I had put into it blew without me noticing. Really weird. So I replaced the fuse with a ceramic one (damned they are expensive).
With the cermamic fuse in place I could measure 223 volts on the thermostat when I put the probes on connector slot 1 and 2 on the thermostat while it was open ( no heat demand ). But still the valve was not drawing any current so I twisted the dial on the thermostat to close it (heat demand) but then all lights went out and the circuit breaker in my breaker panel had tripped.
Once back in the garage now the ceramic fuse also blown ;)

So now I have put in a new glass fuse again and I can measure volts again on connector 1 and 2 on the thermostat while it is open but I dare not to close it again. I have about 7 glass fuses left ;)

I am believe the problem must be in how I have the thermostat hooked up. But I can't make any sense of the schematic inside the cover we can see on some of my photo's and the one de Edd has uploaded. It looks like I am supposed to split the N wire in 2 or something. really weird.
 

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brandnewb

Nov 30, 2021
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So all in all it looks like the controller board is still functional in terms of power to the thermostat and pump. Only the power to the valve is yet to be determined but that depends on getting the thermostat correctly wired before I can test that I guess
 

brandnewb

Nov 30, 2021
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Bi- Metallic Warp THERMOSTAT . . . ( Super MAGS . . .on up )
DSC00863-scaled.jpg
here, please take a look at the wireing schema. I can't make heads or tails from it ;(
 

Tha fios agaibh

Aug 11, 2014
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Think your right.
The L1 L2 terminals are for 230v supply to thermostat. Perhaps the blue (switched through thermostat goes to one of the other terminals below it. The arror terminal?

Wish it showed the entire schematic.
You guys do things a little differently on your side of the pond.
 

Tha fios agaibh

Aug 11, 2014
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L (line) goes into thermostat and the switch leg (blue wire) returning should go to terminal with swigley lines (meaning call for heat)
 

Tha fios agaibh

Aug 11, 2014
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Think your right.
The L1 L2 terminals are for 230v supply to thermostat.
Which is not needed to
power this thermostat.

But, technically it looks like you should have a neutral connection on the right side in order for RF to operate (heat up) to give the proper dead band.
Either way it should work without it.
 
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brandnewb

Nov 30, 2021
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update: I finally was able to get someone at technical support of the manufacturer that was willing to help and it turns out that we need 3 wires. In my humble opinion the wiring diagram is confusing to untrained eyes like mine. Anyway they did suggest a different thermostat that only requires 2 wires so we do not have to reinstall the cables luckily
 
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