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How to test if UFH controller is functioning

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by brandnewb, Nov 30, 2021.

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  1. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    I have an OEG underfloor heating controller that does not seem to do what it needs to do.

    I am really new to electronics but I'd like to learn.

    The thermostat is connected to HZ 6 (Heating zone 6).
    When the controller is not connected to a power outlet should I be able to measure resistance between the L and N terminals of HZ6 (or any heating zone for that matter) on the controller?

    At the moment when I use my multimeter to test for resistance there is no circuit detected when putting the probes on L and N of any of the heating zone terminals.

    Please see the attached image
     

    Attached Files:

  2. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    Aug 21, 2015
    WITH NO AC POWER to the unit.
    The right side cords wiring trio would be the Green ground wire and the hot and neutral, set of wires that pass thru a relay and line fuse, to get over to the left sides LOOSE wires of a GREEN ground wire and a pair of separate neutral and hot wires..
    And you would expect to read the resistance of the heating element on that set of wires . . . RED CLIPS . . .UNLESS there is some type of thermal fusing that is opening that circuits connection, on through to the heating element / thermostat is opened up..
     
  3. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    Thank you for your response. I am not sure I follow though.

    The way it should work I think is that if the thermostat is in a closed state it completes the circuit that is exposed via the HZ L and N terminals. In the image I posted the thermostat is currently connected to the HZ 6 L and N terminals. But nothing seems to happen, e.g. the connected pump is not turning on and the valves are not getting any juice to open up.

    So I though of testing if the circuit is working on the HZ L and N terminals, by measuring for resistance. but non of them give any. i.e. there is no circuit to close if I am not mistaken.

    Am I approaching the problem from the correct angle? Or should I change my testing strategy?
     
  4. Tha fios agaibh

    Tha fios agaibh

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    Aug 11, 2014
    Presumably this is a new install and never working.

    The 45Ω resistance should be read at your heating element wires.
    Don't worry about resistance elsewhere.

    There may be a missing jumper wire to the right of incoming power terminals

    It look like this load may not be hooked to the corresponding zone output for zone 6?
    I'd think zone outputs would be directly below zone thermostat terminals.

    What does the manual say?
     
  5. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    Yes it's a new install and it never worked. i do not have heating elements attached. Only a pump, which, (when AC power is connected) is getting power, a valve, which is never getting power and a thermostat.

    The pump is connected using the orange cable with the alligator clips. The white cable to the right of that is the AC power input, which is currently not connected.

    your are right the valve is currently connected to a HZ1 because I am moving around on the controller trying to find out what is wrong. But it does not matter if it were to be in HZ6. I never am able to read anything, no volts or resistance on any of the thermostat and valve terminals.

    I have wired it according to the instructions on the manual. That is why I believe the unit came DOA but before I send it back I'd like to make sure if I have not overlooked anything an experienced installer would know.

    I am not aware of any jumpers and also the manual does not say anything about jumpers if memory serves me correct.

    This 45 Ohm value you mentioned, where did you get that value from?

    So the take away is is that I can never measure resistance between L and N of the heating zone terminals s that is not how it is supposed to work?
     
  6. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    Aug 21, 2015
    I was wanting better view of one of the system thermostats, which this gives . . .
    Now onto a whole system wiring diagram . . . .any further model /system numbering available ?

    Bi- Metallic Warp THERMOSTAT . . . ( Super MAGS . . .on up )
    [​IMG]
     
  7. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
  8. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    Ahh sorry for the confusion. Those annotations on the card board are not related and have to do with another project I am working on
     
  9. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    Aug 21, 2015
    The 45Ω resistance should be read at your heating element wires.
    ? ? ?

    I am seeing this as using a hot water heat source that then turns on circulating pump(s) for that heated waters circulation, until thermostat detected cut off, thus the presence or non presence of pump run voltage at the outputs. Or if ohmming out, the presence of a connected motors winding resistance.
    should I be able to measure resistance between the L and N terminals of HZ6 (or any heating zone for that matter) on the controller?
    Think . . . . Is there being a circulation motor(s) connected up to that tested zone ?

    Why is your thermostat connected into (manuals 10) section ( circulation motors section) instead of up in (manuals 8) section . . . at HZ-1's zones terminals ?

    73's de Edd . . . . .
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2021
  10. Tha fios agaibh

    Tha fios agaibh

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    Aug 11, 2014
    Sorry, was thinking electrical heating coils.

    The actuator valves are 24v? Looks like the 24v supply terminals are hooked to the pump.
     
  11. Tha fios agaibh

    Tha fios agaibh

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    Aug 11, 2014
    I'm thinking you need to feed power terminal strip 3 with 24vac on left terminal.
     
  12. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    The unit is a 230 V model as are the rest of the components.

    I have the valve connected to HZ6 now but with the AC off I still am unable to measure anything when putting the probes on the valve or thermostat terminals. Please see attached image.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    Also when turning on the AC I do not measure any voltage, while the thermostat is closed, on the 1 and 2 thermostat terminals.
     
  14. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    If I am not mistaken the thermostat is already connected to (8(connection for thermostat)) in the manual. And 10 (connection for actuators) is now in the correct zone but still no joy ;(
     
  15. Tha fios agaibh

    Tha fios agaibh

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    Aug 11, 2014
    Ok, it's 230v valve.
    But again you have the pump hooked to the supply terminals (red clips)

    I think you need 230v brown on both L1 terminals.
     
  16. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    Aug 21, 2015
    OH BOY ! . . .things just keep getting betterrer-er-er with each new photos reveal. . . . .ARE WE HAVING FUN YET ?

    This shows VALVES being used instead of individual circulation motors.
    Now I can also see . . that 1 . . . units wattage consumption which is being 1 watt @230VAC.
    Now if you don't have an auto ranging ohmmeter and was expecting resistance down in the decades of ohms . . . .hold onto yer hat !
    As one watt of consumption at 230 volts relates to 4.34782609 milliamps of current consumption, which further relates to being ~
    52 thousand and 900 ohms of resistance. ( NOW, that solenoids coil is being a wound with a WHOLE bunches of vewy-vewy-vewy fine war . . . as Elmer Fudd would say . . .)
    Now . . . .was your ohmmeter even prepared for / expecting that SURPRISE ?
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2021
  17. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    :) haha not really no. This thing has not worked for me and need to be sure before I send it back.
    Anyway I am 100% sure that the valves/actuators are correct as is the thermostat.

    I just need to be able to know for certain that it is broken before I send it back and they get upset with me ;)
     
  18. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    This is what I have to test with
     

    Attached Files:

  19. brandnewb

    brandnewb

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    Nov 30, 2021
    I,ve been using the fluke in resistance mode to listen if the circuit is closable
     
  20. Tha fios agaibh

    Tha fios agaibh

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    Aug 11, 2014
    Have you verified fuse is good?
     
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