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How to remove Araldite?

Discussion in 'General Electronics Discussion' started by adit, Aug 31, 2012.

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  1. adit


    Aug 31, 2012
    We are using Araldite for water proofing of PCB. Now when the Unit comes back for repair, we have to use a new PCB rather than using the original PCB and changing the Electronic components that have failed. As the cost of replacing the complete PCB is high, the repair cost also becomes high. Secondly, analysis of failed PCB is also next to impossible.

    Please provide a solution by way of suggesting:
    1. Method to remove Araldite without damaging the PCB and components.
    2. New water proofing compound in place of Araldite which can be easily removed without damaging the PCB and components worthy for working in Aviation Fuel media.
  2. Raven Luni

    Raven Luni

    Oct 15, 2011
    You can soften it using paint stripper or a hot air gun (like those used for reflowing). Then its a matter of scraping / sanding it off.
  3. adit


    Aug 31, 2012
    Heating may damage the Electronic component on PCB

    Using hot air gun may damage the Electronic component on PCB. Scraping the whole thing is a very hard and time taking process.

    I am looking for some kind of dissolver.
  4. CocaCola


    Apr 7, 2012
    Welcome to conformal coating removal, that is why it's used as a reverse engineering deterrent... If it came off easily it wouldn't serve it's purpose...

    You are not going to find a magic drop it in and, presto it's done, with no worries or work solution...

    Anything that dissolves the coating will pose a potential for damaging to the parts that are made of similar or less resistant materials...

    FYI: Araldite is a trademark name and gives no indication of what type of conformal coating you are actually using... The Araldite series comprises structural epoxy, acrylic, and polyurethane adhesives... It's like saying you used 3M to coat the boards, there is a vast world of difference between, epoxy, acrylic and polyurethane...

    If it's epoxy you can use fuming nitric acid, horribly dangerous stuff that requires the utmost safety and planning as it's unstable once exposed to the air, but it will eat away epoxy and anything else it contacts... Acetone will slowly soften most polyurethanes over time, acrylic is really a hit or miss acetone will sometimes soften it as will methylene chloride... But all those solvents won't distinguish between your conformal coating and any components, nor anything else it wants to eat away... That is why when this is done, it's done slowly and in thin layers, over a course of many hours or days...
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2012
  5. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

    Jan 21, 2010
    It may be better to find a new waterproofing agent that's easier to remove...
  6. KrisBlueNZ

    KrisBlueNZ Sadly passed away in 2015

    Nov 28, 2011
    Sorry if this seems obvious, but have you contacted the manufacturer of the "Araldite" product you are using and asked them if they know of any way to dissolve it?
  7. Raven Luni

    Raven Luni

    Oct 15, 2011
    Might I suggest hot glue for waterproofing. That can be removed by hand with relatively low heat.
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