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Hooking up dual igition coil.

Discussion in 'Electronic Basics' started by Sam Nickaby, Feb 14, 2006.

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  1. Sam Nickaby

    Sam Nickaby Guest

    I came across this dual coil and dual ignition module kit. The price is
    around a thousand dollar. This sound way too expensive. I want to build
    one for my own vehicle but I not sure if the secondary output of the two
    coils should be tied together. For instance, if I tie the secondary port together
    would I achieve a bigger spark? I would need some help on this part. How
    should I hooked this up so that it'll work reliably?

  2. TE Cheah

    TE Cheah Guest

    | dual ignition module kit
    must be for @least 8 cylinders

    | around a thousand dollar.
    1 can buy 2 separate sets for less. No detail of coil ( # of turns ),
    circuit ( inductive, capacitive discharge ), output voltage & ampere
    graph, input ampere needed.
  3. Guest

    Guest Guest

    What kind of race car do you have?
    None?? Dont waste your money.
  4. steamer

    steamer Guest

    --Still working on the flame thrower, eh? Maybe you could find some
    more input at the pyro tribe? That's where I've been learning how to do this
    sort of thing..
  5. Steve

    Steve Guest

    Good grief.

    Like I said in another thread... put DOWN the harbor freight crimp tool
    and step AWAY from the car. You're gonna hurt yourself.

    Or at least learn HOW dual ignition works before you start trying to
    hack one together!!!
  6. Bobscar

    Bobscar Guest

    The Ford Escort HCS 1.1 & 1.3 litre engine uses a double dual output
    distributorless system. In these systems one cylinder will be on firing
    stroke with the other cylinder on its exhaust stroke. The Escort is
    wired so that cylinders 1&4 fire together with cylinder1 firing
    cylinder4 exhaust. Cylinders 2&3 fire together on the alternate period
    of the ignition module operation. The firing order is 1-2-4-3.
    Therefore cylinder 2 will be ready to fire after cylinder 1.




    1F-2C-4E-3I. and so on again.

  7. Guest

    Wasted Spark ignition system. Common on a lot of engines.

    This isn't what the OP is asking about. What he referenced is a dual
    plug/dual ignition system. But as another poster asked, what for?
    Unless you are racing and have a real need for redundancy it will buy
    you almost nothing. This also requires a head that has two spark plug
    holes. This buys one redundancy and the added benefit of two flame
    fronts in the cylinder.

    The OP wants to have two coils discharge into a single plug. There is
    absolutely nothing to be gained by doing this. I can think of a lot of
    complications in attempting to do this, with nothing to be gained
    except a lot of RFI and probably a few electrical shocks.
  8. Guest

    The OP wants to have two coils discharge into a single plug. There is
    It's sometimes used on auto engines converted for aircraft use,
    where there's no possible or practical way of installing a second plug
    in the head. In those systems, there's a plastic block for each plug
    wire attached to the firewall, and two inputs from the distributors
    into each block. Inside the block, there are three electrodes in close
    proximity but not touching, and the spark from each coil jumps from its
    electrode to the plug wire electrode. Often one system is turned off
    since it's only there for redundancy, not a hotter spark. Airplanes
    don't fly well if the ignition quits, so a second spark source is
    Wiring coil outputs in parallel doesn't raise spark voltage but
    might increase the current a bit if both are timed *exactly* the same,
    which is unlikely. Two plugs will increase power if done right. It does
    in an aircraft engine. Two flame fronts raise the pressure a little
    faster than one, but we're also talking pretty big combustion chambers
    compared to an auto's.
    Dual ignition retrofits sound to me to be one of those
    snob-value things that does little more than make money for the
    aftermarket goodies guys.

  9. Guest

    125° Celsius cross linked Polyethylene Insulated Wire

    I say it's bogus. Who needs wire that's rated slightly above boiling
    water? Give me silicone!

    I had a central spark plug in my Derbi DS 50 so I broke off the
    electrode, added a stainless ball electrode to the piston, and sparked
    from plug to piston. I can't say if it actually made the bike faster
    but it was a clean concept and a fun project. With a higher tension
    system it might have made some improvement, but then hotter sparks
    usually do, don't they?

    Doug Goncz
    Replikon Research
    Falls Church, VA 22044-0394
  10. steamer

    steamer Guest

    --Hey that's neat if a little weird! Wouldn't it dissipate the
    charge thru the engine that way?
  11. Guest

    Hey, there Ed.

    Yes, the whole engine is one big ground block.

    Doug Goncz
    Replikon Research
    Falls Church, VA 22044-0394
  12. Guest

    Woudn't this restrict your ignition timing to always have to be very
    near TDC?

    I guess it would depend on how long the crank arm was and how much
    travel there is in 20-30* or crank movement at the top of the arc.

  13. Guest

    JW asked if the piston electrode limited timing to near TDC.

    Well, 2-strokes have timing near TDC, I think. 4-strokes use advance.

    But still, with a gap of 0.30 conceivable, and a crank arm throw radius
    of, say, 3 inches, that's 100:1.

    Now, the cos function is changing near 0 at around 1:100 per degree.

    So, yes, it does seem that one degree of throw could limit spark to
    very near TDC.

    Does anyone disagree? I am not so experienced working this type of
    thing out.

    My little 2-strok
  14. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I haven't done the math, but intuitively I see no other way than that the
    spark has to be rather near TDC when using this sort of configuration.

    On a lot of little 2 and 4 stroke cycle engines, the timing is static and
    is no advance provision as they are intended to be run in a rather narrow
    rpm range.

    Advance would be desirable on either type of engine if you wanted to
    optimize the performance over a wider rpm band.
  15. JoeBloe

    JoeBloe Guest

    Look up the word VAR in a technical manual somewhere.

    VAR: Volt Ampere Reactive
  16. The Dougster

    The Dougster Guest


  17. Johnny Boy

    Johnny Boy Guest

    Take an AC volt, an AC amp, blend carefully and... voila ... an AC watt
  18. Eeyore

    Eeyore Guest

    No. That's a VA. Volt-Ampere aka 'apparent power'. Watts are quite
    different, as in *true power*. However..... since transformers are rated by
    VA and not watts, this is the one to use in this case.

  19. JoeBloe

    JoeBloe Guest

    No, asshole! Wrong again. You left out the R. It is Volt-Ampere
    REACTIVE, and it is quite real.

    Also, quite different from the VA rating for a transformer.
  20. JoeBloe

    JoeBloe Guest

    Because that IS an "AC watt", which IS the question asked.
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