Homemade light-bar (LED query)

[Gryd3]

Hello everyone.
I've been poking around at various parts in an attempt to build a custom light-bar for my brother.

The project revolves around the 100W LED modules, and this is where I hit a slight snag.
The bar will have 6 LED modules, each at approx 3Amps and 30-34V and I would like to avoid the need to purchase a constant current boost module for each LED.

The higher voltages required to connect them in series has me considering a parallel connection, and I came to the conclusion that I should use a 12V to 36V (or higher) constant voltage boost converter, then use something like an LM338 as a constant current supply in-line with each LED. The problem here is the power handling requirement for the shunt resistor makes this method more costly than buying multiple CC boost converters.

So, my question here is what would you do if you needed to connect 6 100W LED modules to a car that supplies 12V?
Trying to keep BOM down, but also looking to avoid fabricating a complicated circuit board.

 

[Audioguru]

Isn't 600W of LED light enough to blind everybody for miles around?
How will you cool 600W?

 

[Gryd3]

Isn't 600W of LED light enough to blind everybody for miles around?
How will you cool 600W?

Planned on mounting it to a milled aluminium bar. Trial and error, if the heat is too much I'll either adapt the bar for forced air cooling or liquid cooling. Can also run the LEDs at a lower rating to help combat the heat.
(I've test run a module that I mounted on a small CPU heatsink with a fan and it runs very well for extended periods without getting too hot to handle)

 

[Bluejets]

Individual units are probably the best approach.
You may find it quickly get out of hand, cost wise and in practical terms to do otherwise.

https://www.stratusleds.com/100w-led-driver/

 

[Gryd3]

Individual units are probably the best approach.
You may find it quickly get out of hand, cost wise and in practical terms to do otherwise.

https://www.stratusleds.com/100w-led-driver/

I figured it may, which is why my fallback was to do individual drivers for each LED.
The high capacity CV boost supply, and daisy chaining 3-pin regulators (as CC devices) in series with the LEDs just *sounded* so much nicer, but application wise they required shunt resistors with +4W of power handling which seem to cost more than the dedicated drivers.

 

[ParkPrince]

Compared with common LED lights, I think solar LED lights are better because they save power electricity. Rather than current power, these LED solar lights convert sunlight into power directly and use it to light. They are more environmentally-friendly and should be the main use for the future.

 

[Audioguru]

The solar lights produce only 160 lumens amount of light that is about 1/1000th what you want. The 25W incandescent light bulb in your refrigerator or a 7W LED produces more light.

 

[Gryd3]

Compared with common LED lights, I think solar LED lights are better because they save power electricity. Rather than current power, these LED solar lights convert sunlight into power directly and use it to light. They are more environmentally-friendly and should be the main use for the future.

Lucky for you, I'm not considering 'common LED lights', and very unlucky for you is the fact that your solar LED lights are 'common LED lights' with a different power source. Please remove you post, it's not helpful and not related to this project.