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High side driver packages, what the...?

A

Anthony Fremont

Jan 1, 1970
0
I've got an automotive project that I want to finish and I need to use a
couple of high-side drivers rated for a few Amps each. I have some VN820s
that will do the job fine, but the package is a 5 lead TO-220 (pentawatt).
I build my stuff on standard pre-made pc proto boards that have "standard"
spacing and this package just won't fit any of them without mangling the
pins badly. For those unfamiliar, it's like a regular TO-220, but with two
more pins shoved between the ones that are already there. I look and look
and all I find is more of the same. :-(

Is there any high-side driver available in regular DIP8 or any package that
can be easily fitted to a proto board?
 
S

Stace MacGuyver

Jan 1, 1970
0
I've got an automotive project that I want to finish and I need to use a
couple of high-side drivers rated for a few Amps each. I have some VN820s
that will do the job fine, but the package is a 5 lead TO-220 (pentawatt).
I build my stuff on standard pre-made pc proto boards that have "standard"
spacing and this package just won't fit any of them without mangling the
pins badly. For those unfamiliar, it's like a regular TO-220, but with two
more pins shoved between the ones that are already there. I look and look
and all I find is more of the same. :-(

Is there any high-side driver available in regular DIP8 or any package that
can be easily fitted to a proto board?
Have some ingenuity and get the Swiss Army knife and duct tape out. There's a
room full of useful materials readily available. Bend the leads and use small
gauge wire to connect the leads to the board. Good grief!
 
A

Anthony Fremont

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jamie said:
learn to make your own boards.

I've been thinking about this. I have a couple of projects that really need
to be done that way. I've managed to scrape by all this time without using
the messy chems, but I guess it's time to get with the program. Can you
recommend the chemicals you like?
start with using a laser printer , art work printed in reverse on a
piece of InkJet photo paper where the print ends up on the shinny
side. clean board, iron on, wash off with water.
get the etching ready, use plastic tongs, and splash the board
around in plastic try for about 20 mins to remove exposed area..
then drill your holes.

http://esmonde-white.com/etching_pcb.html
http://www.instructables.com/id/EN4JHYI8R7EYF7IYHZ
etc..
it works very nicely.
if you were to go into production how ever, i would
suggest you have them done else where for you. because
they can apply protective coatings, feed throughs etc..

Thanks for the links.
 
J

Jamie

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anthony said:
I've got an automotive project that I want to finish and I need to use a
couple of high-side drivers rated for a few Amps each. I have some VN820s
that will do the job fine, but the package is a 5 lead TO-220 (pentawatt).
I build my stuff on standard pre-made pc proto boards that have "standard"
spacing and this package just won't fit any of them without mangling the
pins badly. For those unfamiliar, it's like a regular TO-220, but with two
more pins shoved between the ones that are already there. I look and look
and all I find is more of the same. :-(

Is there any high-side driver available in regular DIP8 or any package that
can be easily fitted to a proto board?
learn to make your own boards.
start with using a laser printer , art work printed in reverse on a
piece of InkJet photo paper where the print ends up on the shinny side.
clean board, iron on, wash off with water.
get the etching ready, use plastic tongs, and splash the board around
in plastic try for about 20 mins to remove exposed area..
then drill your holes.

http://esmonde-white.com/etching_pcb.html
http://www.instructables.com/id/EN4JHYI8R7EYF7IYHZ
etc..
it works very nicely.
if you were to go into production how ever, i would
suggest you have them done else where for you. because
they can apply protective coatings, feed throughs etc..
 
J

JeffM

Jan 1, 1970
0
E

ehsjr

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anthony said:
I've got an automotive project that I want to finish and I need to use a
couple of high-side drivers rated for a few Amps each. I have some VN820s
that will do the job fine, but the package is a 5 lead TO-220 (pentawatt).
I build my stuff on standard pre-made pc proto boards that have "standard"
spacing and this package just won't fit any of them without mangling the
pins badly. For those unfamiliar, it's like a regular TO-220, but with two
more pins shoved between the ones that are already there. I look and look
and all I find is more of the same. :-(

Is there any high-side driver available in regular DIP8 or any package that
can be easily fitted to a proto board?

John Fields mentioned this one in another thread:
http://www.micrel.com/_PDF/mic5021.pdf

Ed
 
R

Robert Baer

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anthony said:
I've been thinking about this. I have a couple of projects that really need
to be done that way. I've managed to scrape by all this time without using
the messy chems, but I guess it's time to get with the program. Can you
recommend the chemicals you like?




Thanks for the links.
I have posted on m.i.e.marketplace, a Datak kit...
 
A

Anthony Fremont

Jan 1, 1970
0
ehsjr said:
John Fields mentioned this one in another thread:
http://www.micrel.com/_PDF/mic5021.pdf

Thanks Ed, that's a "gate driver" though. :) The part I'm looking for is
something like a P-channel MOSFET, but with a built in voltage converter so
that it only takes 5V drive on the gate. They're really cool parts and
usually have neat features such as a short-circuit proof output and being
able to provide feedback about the load, like if it is an open circuit (i.e.
blown bulb). Great parts for automotive use. Here's a link to the ones I
have:
http://www.st.com/stonline/products/literature/ds/7370.pdf
The problem with them is the sucky packages they come in. ;-)
 
C

Carl Ijames

Jan 1, 1970
0
Infineon (www.infineon.com) makes the profet line of smart high side
switches, usually available at either digikey or mouser (forget which),
but they all seem to be either surface mount or 5- or 7- pin to220 or
to218 packages just like the ones you already found. What is so bad
about bending the two "in-between" pins, numbers 2 and 4, forward and
over so that 1, 3, and 5 go in the normal to220 holes and 2 and 4 go in
the next row over, in front of 1 and 5? You say you only need a couple,
so a minute or two sculpting with needle nose pliers can't be all that
bad :).
 
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