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HID Bi-Xenon Solenoid Wiring help please!

Discussion in 'Electronic Basics' started by Ocelaris, Jul 30, 2004.

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  1. Ocelaris

    Ocelaris Guest

    Me and a few people have taken to retrofitting in HID (High
    Intensity Discharge) i.e. Xenon headlights into our non-hid equipped
    cars. We use projectors from OEM cars, BMW, Mercedes, Audi etc...
    which serve to make the headlights have no glare... i.e. we're not the
    bad ricers with blinding blue headlights. I was hoping for some help
    with a little problem we're having.

    The projectors have a shield which covers up half of the lens, which
    ends up inverted, with a sharp cut off just above bumper line. That is
    the low beam, The High Beam is when a solenoid triggers and the shield
    rotates forward (drops) and exposes the entire lens to light. This
    solenoid is the problem. There are 3 wires coming from the solenoid,
    red, black and green. We have discovered that the red wire is the
    positive, and black and green are grounds tapped at different places
    along the solenoid's coil. The red/black combination can drop the
    shield (more force needed to activate the solenoid) the red/black
    combination also can hold the shield down. The red/green combination
    is only good for holding down the shield once it has been dropped by
    the red/black set. I.E. the red/black wire is a full coil length, and
    the red/green wire is much less. The problem is that the red/black set
    will get too hot and burn up the coil if you leave it on too long, so
    we have to trigger with red/black and then switch to red/green.

    I proposed using some sort of delayed relay/capacitor combination,
    seen here:

    Or the entire thread back on a VBulletin based forum is here:

    But I knew that the best place to get info is newsgroups, so I'm
    respecfully asking if anyone could help with this, It'd be most
    appreciated. Thank you
  2. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    Ocelaris wrote:
    In pinball machines, and I wouldn't be surprised if they do in
    OEM, they use an actual mechanical switch that switches from the
    hard-pull to the sustaining pull. You might even have noticed it
    while playing - if you're holding the flipper button, and the
    ball comes at the flipper hard enough to deflect it enough to
    close the switch, it'll re-kick the ball.

    Otherwise, drive the low-pull one directly, so it's on all the
    time, and the other with your delayed relay circuit. If you use
    automotive grade components, and the circuit in your link has
    been tested, then you should be OK.

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