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Help trying to understand a charging fault on an Xbox One Controller

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by theslink2000, Apr 2, 2017.

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  1. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    Apr 1, 2017
    Hi,

    Apologies in advance for the long post.

    I've been trying to find somewhere to ask this question where people might be able to help, and after reading through some of your forums this site looks like a good bet.

    As a hobby, I repair games consoles and I've got a mark two Xbox One controller that I've been trying to repair after someone threw it.

    I won't go into huge detail unless asked for specifics, but the controller contains two pcbs linked by a pair of connectors, one of which is particularly prone to damage from impacts or just general usage (I'd call it a pretty huge design flaw personally).

    This controller has suffered from several damaged traces in one of these connectors due to being thrown which has resulted in non-functioning buttons, I've fixed this and on test it works perfectly IF used via a USB cable.

    The problem arises when you try to run it from batteries. It flashes twice and powers off, as if the batteries are empty and even when run via USB it shows the batteries as empty and won't run the rumble motors as a result.

    As far as I can figure this has to be one of three things:

    1. However the controller determines the battery level (a transistor maybe? This is what I really don't understand) is stuck / broken so it permanently reads empty.

    2. There is further damage to a trace at the connector, but I cannot find any at the moment.

    3. The controllers control chip has a fault and there's nothing I can do about it.

    Unfortunately there are no schematics I can find for these controllers and as I said I don't understand how batter charging circuits really work and read levels. I could provide photos if that'd be of use.

    Can anyone help me shed some light on this please?

    Cheers,

    Dave.
     
  2. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

    5,164
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    Dec 18, 2013
    Hello. Can you take some clear close up photos of both sides of the PCB in question. We may be able to spot a fault.
    Thanks
    Adam
     
  3. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    Apr 1, 2017
    Hi Adam,

    Thanks for offering to help. I'll upload some photos tonight when I get a chance.

    Cheers,

    Dave.
     
  4. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    Apr 1, 2017
    I've taken photos as best I can, including the damaged sockets and connector and an area of the board I'm suspicious of, which I have ringed in red.

    I know the images aren't perfect, so I've taken multiple close ups as well to help give a good overview. Any more specific images you want, please ask.

    I really appreciate any help.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    Apr 1, 2017
    Ok, it won't let me upload the image with the ring on it but I'm referring to the last image, DSC_0639 and component Q8 specifically.
     
  6. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    Apr 1, 2017
    No one has any ideas?
     
  7. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    Hello

    I can't see anything obvious from the photos you took. Only thing I can suggest is to have a good look at the solder joints and if any look dry then re-solder them. Without a circuit diagram it will be very difficult to repair over the forum unless someone has experience of these controllers; sadly I do not.

    Adam
     
  8. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    0
    Apr 1, 2017
    Thanks anyway, I appreciate that and I have inspected the joints all over the place and it all looks fine to me but I know it's a long shot.

    Could someone point me to some good clear info on how charging circuits work so I can rule out the components in it and see if I can track anything down?
     
  9. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

    5,164
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    Dec 18, 2013
    If you can identify what IC might be the charger IC by looking up the IC name on the internet then a data sheet should show an application circuit.
    Thanks
    Adam
     
  10. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    Apr 1, 2017
    That's a good thought, I was obsessing over the idea it was something simple stuck open, but it might well be the IC that's gone. I'll look into it when I have a chance and report back.

    Cheers Adam.
     
  11. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    Ok let us know if you need any help identifying the parts. If you can make a note of the writing on the ICs and list them here if you have no luck.
    Adam
     
  12. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    Apr 1, 2017
    Will do.

    Thanks again.
     
  13. theslink2000

    theslink2000

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    Apr 1, 2017
    I've had to give up on this repair and give the pad back to its owner. The chips appear to be proprietary to Microsoft anyway, but thanks for trying Adam.
     
  14. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

    5,164
    1,080
    Dec 18, 2013
    Ok no worries.
    Thanks
    Adam
     
  15. Stephan Monte

    Stephan Monte

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    0
    Aug 1, 2017
    Hy guys, i'm new here. Got a problem, i was switching the analog switch and realized that the C27 resistor was missing. Sorry for the bad english, still practicing. I wanted to know the value (on OMS) of that particular resistor, C27 (near the right analog), so i can search and buy a new one.
     
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