Help removing a wiring harness. Please.

[DavidHeart]

Greetings!

Attached is an image of a small (bit over 1/2") wiring harness I need to remove. As you can see, it's getting pretty chewed up in my less than stellar attempts.To the left of it is one I haven't "worked" on.

Can someone please clue me in .

Thanks!
David

 

[Rleo6965]

It should be easier to remove than the one in the right. Just hold on the wire near the 5 wire connector and slightly pull connector on each side before pulling it up. If still doesn’t work. Spray it with WD40 or Contact cleaner to lubricate 5 pins contacts.

 

[DavidHeart]

It should be easier to remove than the one in the right.

Yes. The one on the left is easy. Still no luck with the one on the right or the other ones that size.

Is there a special "puller"? What's the trick?

 

[Rleo6965]

My last resort was to pry the top sides of plastic connector but this will deform the top side of connector.

 

[davenn]

Hey David,
welcome to the forums

the manufacturer may have glued it in position
the style of the right connector looks no different to the left
it, under normal conditions, should have pulled straight out

Dave

 

[MBVet05]

Manufacturers do not normally glue connectors in place. I repair, build, and fabricate prototype and test cables on a weekly basis. There are many different types of connectors. Some have locking tabs and some are just a real pain in the butt to remove due to how tightly they fit. One way I have found to remove a stubborn connector is with isopropyl alcohol. It generally is good at loosening dirt and debris that has built up in the connector contacts over time and also acts like a lubricant to get it loose. Better than an oily substance like WD40 because it evaporates and leaves no messy residue.

 

[DavidHeart]

There's a story here about an IP surveillance camera, one of many I purchased from China to install in Jamaica while living in the Blue Ridge Mtns.

I just spoke (more accurately IM'd) with the manufacturer, and indeed yes, they glue the harness into the connector. This is the word of my sales rep from Shenzhen, China, mind you. She actually told me to use a lighter. Yes, flame to a circuit board to soften the glue to release the connector. It took me a few minutes to recover, then I said something about the 1950's and some old movie. To their credit, it inspired internal discussion among the engineers. I may have egged them into making the repair/upgrade process more efficient. It costs a whopping $250 to ship a 4lb box containing a single camera, but "only" $100 to ship a tube containing the circuit modules from a half dozen cameras. That's just the shipping cost.

I'm waiting to hear back about how best to approach a 5 layer circuit module with a lighter. (insert rolling eyes here)

To be continued ...

 

[davenn]

Manufacturers do not normally glue connectors in place. I repair, build, and fabricate prototype and test cables on a weekly basis. There are many different types of connectors.

no, normally thats true for ~ 95% of the time. But I have met my fair share of glued connectors over the last many years. The connectors in the photo supplied by the OP show a very common PCB to wire loom connector found widely in domestic electronics.
I even often recover them for my own project use

cheers
Dave

 

[shrtrnd]

I can't tell from the picture for sure, but MBVet05 has a point. Most connectors like
that one I've found, have locking tabs. Either on the back side of the connector, or on
the sides. Examine the connector closely, and look for locking tabs molded into the
connectors. You pry the tabs open with a small screwdriver while disconnecting the
connector from its mate. It really sounds to me like this is your issue. You CAN'T
disconnect connectors made like that without unlatching the locking tabs.

 

[jackorocko]

I agree with everyone here. You have one or two problems. Either it is glued, yes I have seen it myself, or it has locking tabs. I don't see any locking tabs from that picture but they should be very obvious. If you can't see them and still can't take it apart I would recommend as a last resort. Grab a pair of pliers(channel locks or similar will give you more even pressure), something with some surface area, use a towel or something else that will give a little padding between the pliers and connector. Start at just one end and pry a little, then work to the other side. Keep working back and forth. Use a rocking motion to try and free it instead of pressure in one direction. Eventually it will come free even if it is glued.

If you have damaged it to far or are afraid of ruining the board all together maybe you should think about cutting the wires. Making a quick connect splice.

 

[DavidHeart]

As I've written above, the manufacturer has confirmed gluing the connectors.

I'm off to find a "flameless lighter" to mildly blow torch 'em while applying gentle upwards pressure with a padded plier.

 

[Rleo6965]

As I've written above, the manufacturer has confirmed gluing the connectors.

I'm off to find a "flameless lighter" to mildly blow torch 'em while applying gentle upwards pressure with a padded plier.

Hot Air Hair blower might work.

 

[DavidHeart]

So ... I purchased one of these:

at bugstores.com for not much coin. Basically a miniature butane blowtorch. Creates a very fine, directed heat. A one second swipe across the harness, then a gentle pull, and it easily came loose.

I'm going to deal with the 3 components that have gone bad, but after this, I'm switching vendors.

Thank you everyone. Case closed!

 

[MBVet05]

I have not been back in awhile and was curious as to the outcome of your glued connector dilemma. Hopefully you have figured it out.

 

[Wabajig]

Dont use that torch, too hot. Hair dryer on high. More pictures,please.

 

[shrtrnd]

Most of the chemicals I've used to soften glue (like acetone), also soften the plastics
on connectors. Only the people who built the board know what glue they used on the
connectors (and what dissolves it without melting plastic).
Any possibility of using a heatgun (like for shrink-tube use), to maybe free-up the glue?
(Without melting the plastic of the connector).

 

[CocaCola]

A very handy tool to have for repairs is one of these small heat guns, they are exponentially cheaper then the 'electronics' dedicated small heat guns and work quite well... You can even reflow with them...

For under $20 usually about $10 if you shop around just look for a Scrap Booking Embossing Heat Gun at your local scrap booking or hobby store...