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Help reading fuse on LCD inverter board

A

alllw

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello,

I am trying to repair my ADVAN AGM15TL/L150ATA 15" lcd monitor.
Monitor was manufactured March 1999. The problem is the backlight not
turning on as I can barely see the video on the screen. I have since
looked at the inverter board and found F1 a surface mount fuse opened.
12 volts feed into this fuse.

I have to use a microscope to read the marks on the fuse. It has an
impression mark " FP ". I need help figuring out how to read this fuse
and what to replace it with. Maybe someone may know a common value
that are used on other brand inverter boards.

TIA, Al
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
alllw said:
Hello,

I am trying to repair my ADVAN AGM15TL/L150ATA 15" lcd monitor.
Monitor was manufactured March 1999. The problem is the backlight not
turning on as I can barely see the video on the screen. I have since
looked at the inverter board and found F1 a surface mount fuse opened.
12 volts feed into this fuse.

I have to use a microscope to read the marks on the fuse. It has an
impression mark " FP ". I need help figuring out how to read this fuse
and what to replace it with. Maybe someone may know a common value
that are used on other brand inverter boards.

Common value is 2 amps. They do fail for no reason, but also sometimes as a
result of bad driver chips or transistors on the board.

Arfa
 
J

James Sweet

Jan 1, 1970
0
alllw said:
Hello,

I am trying to repair my ADVAN AGM15TL/L150ATA 15" lcd monitor.
Monitor was manufactured March 1999. The problem is the backlight not
turning on as I can barely see the video on the screen. I have since
looked at the inverter board and found F1 a surface mount fuse opened.
12 volts feed into this fuse.

I have to use a microscope to read the marks on the fuse. It has an
impression mark " FP ". I need help figuring out how to read this fuse
and what to replace it with. Maybe someone may know a common value
that are used on other brand inverter boards.

TIA, Al

You could start with an amp, if it blows immediately then something else is
probably wrong, if it works but then blows after a few minutes try a 1.5 or
2A fuse, I wouldn't go any higher than 2.5A though.
 
A

alllw

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks guys for your replies!

I connected my multimeter (amp) across that open fuse and the backlight
came to life. It was reading around 1.90 amps so you guys are right
on. My next problem would be finding these pico fuses <.125 long
preferably locally (SF bay area).

Do you think I could just wire up one of those big fast-acting glass
fuses or should that be slo-blows that I can pick up at Radio Shack.
Hummm maybe I can find one in my parts pile.

Al
 
J

James Sweet

Jan 1, 1970
0
alllw said:
Thanks guys for your replies!

I connected my multimeter (amp) across that open fuse and the backlight
came to life. It was reading around 1.90 amps so you guys are right
on. My next problem would be finding these pico fuses <.125 long
preferably locally (SF bay area).

Do you think I could just wire up one of those big fast-acting glass
fuses or should that be slo-blows that I can pick up at Radio Shack.
Hummm maybe I can find one in my parts pile.

Al

I'd just solder in a glass fuse if there's room for it, done it before.
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
James Sweet said:
I'd just solder in a glass fuse if there's room for it, done it before.

Agreed, I have too, although SM fuses are not that difficult to obtain. I
would suggest a " T " rated fuse, as there can be quite a surge when the
lamps strike.

Arfa
 
A

alllw

Jan 1, 1970
0
This is just great, I was lucky and found a 2amp fast-acting fuse. I
mounted it with a fuse holder just in case it blows in the future. If
it does I'll use a slow-blow type. Works like new!

Thanks for all your suggestions, AL
 
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