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Help Needed: Vizio Power Supply Board

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by jdavis2125, Oct 20, 2018.

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  1. jdavis2125


    Oct 20, 2018
    Hello all!

    I need to replace a Vizio 056.04391.0031 power supply board but it appears the world is out of them. Any suggestions on a compatible board I can use?

    Thanks in advance

  2. kellys_eye


    Jun 25, 2010
    Do you know the rated output of the power rails? If so then any suitably rated PSU or combination of PSUs will work.
  3. HellasTechn


    Apr 14, 2013
    Ahh i think it is not that simple. What device is it mounted on ? Is it on a TV set ? of so then you will not be able to replace it with a custom made PSU.
  4. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir jdavis2125 . . . . .

    HellasTechn . . . . .
    If you "really search" you will find that is being the main power board for a very-very B E E E E E E E E E G (If my Mexican is good ) 65 inch Vizio Tee Wee

    It looks like all spare boards . . .new . . .pulled . . . or rebuilt . . . from suppliers have been totally depleted.

    DELTA is the actual manufacturer of that board and either Vizio gave them their design prototype to manufacture to,
    or they accommodated a DELTA house design board to use for their application .
    Now if it were DELTAS, and being used across different brands , seems like equivalents of other manufacturers should show up. That is certainly not to be seen.

    It could be that there is a design / reliability flaw in that board and neither Vizio or DELTA are at a satisfactory solution yet.
    ( With them currently being at the Hooooooooooooooooooooly Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet stage. )

    Looking at the supplier . . . . . " Shop Jimmys " . . . . . . RED FACE smiley, seems like they are expecting that boards restocking, as being 5 days from never.

    Sir Kelly's [​IMG]
    Do you know the rated output of the power rails? If so then any suitably rated PSU or combination of PSUs will work.
    Au contraire . . . . . there are feedback samplings sent back to the power supplies for adjusting, particularly for the backlights current consumptions and PWM for brite tracking / modulation..


    Now should you have the Technical acumen and some electro-mechanic smarts, you might evaluate your existing board . . . . leaving it in circuit for these tests.

    ( Left clickee-clickee . . . makee it mo' biggie )

    You can do these tests on the safe / cold output side of the power supply, in order to detect its different supply's states.

    START . . .

    Bottom right corner and at CN101 connector, and use Voltmeter in DC function and at high enough voltage range to accommodate the expected voltage.

    BLACK meter test lead to pin 5 or 6 for ground, and then RED test lead to 1 or 2 to confirm if there is being ~ + 5 VDC standby voltage . . . it has to have that voltage .

    If present, a vital portion of the board is working and the AC power conversion to raw DC HOT supply is OK.

    Then, retain BLACK ground and move RED test lead to 7,8,11 and 12 to confirm if there is being ~ + 12 VDC.
    If so, another supply is having output.

    Then move up to right top corner at CN 203 and place BLACK meter probe on a ground and use RED probe to see if backlight supply +32 VDC is being present.
    Whatcha got ?

    Next move down to CN202 and do the same type of test for CN202 and another + 32 VDC is present .
    Whatcha got ?

    Then lastly drop down to CN201 and see if your +24 VDC audio power supply voltage is being present.

    What do you have to report now ?

    73's de Edd

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 21, 2018
    Richard9025 likes this.
  5. kellys_eye


    Jun 25, 2010
    Yeah, my bad. I made a spot decision on the unit being a Surround Sound device. Had I realised it was a TV I'd have been more circumspect.

    Will do more 'Googliing' next time....:oops:
  6. dave9


    Mar 5, 2017
    Checking voltage is useful, but first have you observed anything obvious? Vented capacitors are one of the #1 faults on monitors and TVs, and relatively easy to fix (with upgraded parts so it's less likely to happen again) if you can solder.

    However I found a couple sources that show they have stock by looking for the Delta part # DPS-388AP:

    Here's others but there are slight differences, don't know if they're significant, and same is true for all of these, compare closely to your original:
  7. kellys_eye


    Jun 25, 2010
    Check also for 'repair kits'. Many power supply boards have known, repeatable, faults such that some suppliers sell kits of bits that cover all the usual suspect parts. If you can find a kit just fit all the parts that the kit supplies - replacing all the potentially dud components - and you could be onto a fix.
  8. jdavis2125


    Oct 20, 2018
    Thanks for the awesome replies!

    Sir 73's de Edd - Thank you!

    I'm getting no power to the standby so I assumed that was the issue(test using multimeter). It is amazing how hard it is to find this board!
  9. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir jdavis2125 . . . . .

    You say . . .
    I'm getting no power to the standby

    That basic voltages non presence tells us that the next confirmation,would be to see if the basic RAW rectified DC for initial operation of the power supply is being present..


    That DC power is being stored in the three l o o o o ong black E-caps at center board, almost a 1/3 over from the left edge.
    Their markings are not visible, but I can "read" the board, and see that all of their negative polarity leads are being the left ones and the right ones are the positives.
    Now, to their left is being an R804 1.3 ohm shared source resistor for the Q800-801 power FETS sources.

    On THIS board /version it HAS a bare jumper wire shunting across it.
    If YOUR board either does or does not have a jumper, lets test in this manner, below.

    Place DVM in DC voltage function and on a scale range that will accommodate an ~160-170 VDC reading.

    RED meter lead to the bare jumper wire J11 above the three E-caps, that shares their combined + leads.
    BLACK negative meter lead wire goes to the top lead of that R804B 0.13 ohm resistor and expect that an ~160-170 VDC reading will be read..

    And then, if there was NO jumper wire installed to its side, drop the BLACK negative meter lead on down to the bottom lead of the resistor to see if the voltage remains the same.
    If so, we can then confirm that supply and move to the 10 o'clock position of the 3 main supply E-caps, to find R915 fusible resistor.
    Power goes in to its left lead, out the right, so confirm that output voltage presence as about the same as before.

    That main voltage then routes down in a 5 o'clock direction to the smaller T901 power transformer and its " power supply in chip " IC 901, to its left bottom.

    Your +5 VDC standby to be, exits out the right half of that transformer as 2 wires.
    The transformer left half, has the 2nd terminal down receiving that voltage that we have been testing and tracking.
    That voltage passes on thru the transformer primary winding and exits as its third terminal down which feeds to FB901 parasitic choke bead and it than connects to IC901 pin 5, to a mini power FET driver included within that chip. The voltage should have made its way to that pin 5.

    If you have found power to all of these points, lets do one expeditionary test.
    First, you traipse off to the bathroom and commmandeer Mamma Cass's blow drier and use its heat to
    waft streams of hot air upon C907 and C908 E-caps, below IC901, to raise their temp up , (You no make meltee . .. surrounding plastic shrouds !) and use sampling finger / thumb temperature grips, that confirm that they are then getting as HOT as you ever would be able to drink coffee.

    Rapidly put down drier and press the front of set ON-OFF / POWER switch to see if the set reacts in any way, and also place your thumb atop the BLACK HF12FF power relay . . .located . . . . 8 o'clock position from the 3 main E-caps . . .. to see if you detect any mechanical action within it, at button pushes.

    I will be needing as good of a photo shot of the FOIL side of the board as this component side is .
    As I now need to "read" the other side.
    I can only see the big traces now and that cramps and stops any further analysis.
    I need to know all of the markings on IC 901 . . . (possibly expecting a Mat-su-scheiss-ta MIP2H2 ) . . . . . and also . . . if you have or can borrow a shirt pocket size AM radio receiver.

    Thassssssssit . . .fer now . . . .

    73's de Edd
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
    BayDIY and Richard9025 like this.
  10. Eclipse96


    Mar 16, 2019
    Yeah my Vizio tv E480i-B2 power supply board right by the relay is the number ic901 it’s badly damaged I cannot tell the chip number on top because it’s chipped off all I can see is the ic 901 by it I need to know what is the name of the chip so that I can get another one and fix it
  11. BayDIY


    Dec 17, 2019
    @ 73's de Edd

    Your information is outstanding, thank you for being so thorough. I am having the same power supply problem as jdavis2125 reported [my TV only 4 years old :-( ]. I have no 5V standby power, but there is 170V at the 3 large capacitors. I don't find any power though at the output of the R915 fusible resistor, nor at the input for that matter (at least as measured to ground). The R915 resistor does pass a continuity test.

    I'm an old software engineer with decent experience with electronics products, but not an EE so small details appreciated when possible. Otherwise, I can follow instructions well and have the tools needed.

    Hoping to find and replace a broken component vs. buying a new TV since there are definitely ZERO replacement boards available. The Sony version of the DPS-388 is very similar, but a minimum the mounting holes are in different locations so I'm thinking that's a non-starter.

    Hope you have time to help...
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