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HELP Issue triggering door bell with relay circuit

Hello,

So I have put together the following circuit found in the link and everything with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.

I have wired up a common house-hold door bell which comes with it's own transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own ACcord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

Problem is it seems as though the capacitor maybe too large and is not discharging fast enough.

What I'm seeing after I press one of the game show switches is the corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I'venoticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

Can going from a 1000 uF capacitor to perhaps a 500 or 250uF help solve thedelay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up..

Thanks!

Ariel

http://www.bowdenshobbycircuits.info/page7.htm#game1.gif
 
S

Sylvia Else

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello,

So I have put together the following circuit found in the link and
everything with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights,
switches, lock-out function all work.

I have wired up a common house-hold door bell which comes with it's
own transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power
via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the
Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the
door bell button.

Problem is it seems as though the capacitor maybe too large and is
not discharging fast enough.

What I'm seeing after I press one of the game show switches is the
corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell
rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when
powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece
that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged
in for a bit of time.

Can going from a 1000 uF capacitor to perhaps a 500 or 250uF help
solve the delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be
greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only
detail holding me up.

Thanks!

Ariel

http://www.bowdenshobbycircuits.info/page7.htm#game1.gif

When the relay isn't energised, the bell should be completely
disconnected. I'd have to wonder whether the relay is defective.

I'm a bit suspicious of the way the relay is controlled - a slowly
reducing coil current doesn't seem very nice.

Sylvia.
 
When the relay isn't energised, the bell should be completely

disconnected. I'd have to wonder whether the relay is defective.



I'm a bit suspicious of the way the relay is controlled - a slowly

reducing coil current doesn't seem very nice.



Sylvia.

Hello Sylvia,

I tried to follow the circuit as it was laid out. What would you suggest for this setup? Should I replace the relay? It just acts weird, at one point when I would press one of the buttons it triggered multiple lamps as thoughvoltage was feeding back in to the circuit via the relay. Once the bell system was disconnected it worked normally.
 
S

Sylvia Else

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello Sylvia,

I tried to follow the circuit as it was laid out. What would you
suggest for this setup? Should I replace the relay? It just acts
weird, at one point when I would press one of the buttons it
triggered multiple lamps as though voltage was feeding back in to the
circuit via the relay. Once the bell system was disconnected it
worked normally.

You could check the diode connected across the relay coil, and that it's
really connected to the rest of the circuit (it may look as if it is,
but dry joints can be deceptive).

Beyond that, I'm afraid to say that I find the entire circuit
questionable. It quite needlessly uses dangerous voltages, which among
other things makes it more difficult to diagnose circuit faults.

Sylvia.
 
J

Jasen Betts

Jan 1, 1970
0
What I'm seeing after I press one of the game show switches is the corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

Can going from a 1000 uF capacitor to perhaps a 500 or 250uF help solve the delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up.

Thanks!

Ariel

http://www.bowdenshobbycircuits.info/page7.htm#game1.gif


100ohms and 1000uF should give a pulse on the relay well under 1
second in duration

so the gong solenoid should spend most of its time unpowered and not
heat up noticably,

perhaps you've got the normally closed relay contacts in the gong circuit
instead of the normally open relay contacts.
 
G

Geo

Jan 1, 1970
0
perhaps you've got the normally closed relay contacts in the gong circuit
instead of the normally open relay contacts.

I would agree since the OP said:-
"What I'm seeing after I press one of the game show switches is the
corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell
rings."

So it does a ding after the delay.
 
I would agree since the OP said:-

"What I'm seeing after I press one of the game show switches is the

corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell

rings."



So it does a ding after the delay.

Yes, it lights a bulb after the button press, then the bell dings like a second later. But it seems as though the striker stays stuck for a bit longerpast that. I plan to purchase a 220 uF capacitor since it doesn't need a longer power time and recheck the connections to my relay.
 
W

whit3rd

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello,



So I have put together the following circuit found in the link and everything with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.



I have wired up a common house-hold door bell which comes with it's own transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.



Problem is it seems as though the capacitor maybe too large and is not discharging fast enough.


Unless I'm mistaken, the capacitor will see rather high DC voltage, I hopeit's rated
for a hundred or two hundred volts. The parallel resistor (51 ohms) is the only reason
it doesn't get nearly full rectified 120VAC (about 170 VDC).
If you want a single 'ding' of the bell, it's usually better to trickle-charge a capacitor then
switch it onto the load; I'd implement this with a capacitor+zener to make a low-ripple
DC supply, and a '555 configured as a one-shot.
 
Hello,

Thanks to all who offered their valuable advice and knowledge. The project is complete and working great!!! I found that the door bell was wired to the NC instead of NO, I misinterpreted the layout on the back of the baggie. Also, I found that there was a bad diode in relay portion of the circuit. Replaced the diode, and connected to the NO, no need to step down the size of the capacitor.

Thanks Again!!

Ariel
 
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