Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

[[email protected]]

I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools/Hougen3_zpse1f7add1.jpg

The Magnet itself seems to work, but the drill portion doesn't. Not counting when it turned on a couple of times two days ago, making me think that there was a possible intermittent break somewhere in the connections.

I opened it up and tinkered with the safety switch adjustment screw, but that wasn't the problem.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/...enSafetySwitchAdjustmentScrew_zpsf865d83a.jpg

The safety switch is located on the bottom of the drill. The bottom of the drill must be flat against the metal surface in order for the drill to power on. (See the two buttons at the bottom):
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/...ols/HougenBottom-SafetySwitch_zps3e32a032.jpg

The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".

I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/...ls/HougenStart-StopConnectors_zps3495c450.jpg

Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case there is a cold solder joint somewhere?

I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[N_Cook]

I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools/Hougen3_zpse1f
7add1.jpg

The Magnet itself seems to work, but the drill portion doesn't. Not counting
when it turned on a couple of times two days ago, making me think that there
was a possible intermittent break somewhere in the connections.

I opened it up and tinkered with the safety switch adjustment screw, but
that wasn't the problem.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools/HougenSafetySw
itchAdjustmentScrew_zpsf865d83a.jpg

The safety switch is located on the bottom of the drill. The bottom of the
drill must be flat against the metal surface in order for the drill to power
on. (See the two buttons at the bottom):
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools/HougenBottom-S
afetySwitch_zps3e32a032.jpg

The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will
cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".

I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet
portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I
tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the
Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is
no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools/HougenStart-St
opConnectors_zps3495c450.jpg

Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case
there is a cold solder joint somewhere?

I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an
authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed would be
appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

+++++

'scuse my ingnorance , but
do the magnets in the base really hold the drill static on to sheet steel,
opposing all the reactive torques and forces of large cutting bits?

 

[[email protected]]

Yes. Take a photograph of the various plugs so that you can put it

back together correctly. Unplug everything. Wiggle the connectors

and you'll probably find the "cold" solder joint. Reflow the solder

connections using the same type of solder that was originally used

(Lead-Tin or RoHS type). Clean off the flux. If you try to solder it

with the connectors plugged in, you'll either solder the connectors

together, or melt the plastic insulators. Also, look for "insulation

crimps" on the wire plug ends.



However, I don't think that's the problem. My crystal ball suggests

that the brushes on the motor may be the culprit. Try using your ohms

guesser on the brush contacts and see if the motor presents a few

ohms. Also spin the drive shaft to see if you don't have an "flat

spots" on the commutator. Of course, visually inspect the brushes.



If that looks ok, it's probably something between the power and the

drill motor, which is infested with interlock switches. Each should

be checked individually with the ohms guesser for continuity.



Incidentally, I failed to find a schematic or wiring diagram online.



--

Jeff Liebermann [email protected]

150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com

Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com

Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Here are the Manuals for my model:
http://www.hougen.com/downloads/10904.pdf
http://www.hougen.com/downloads/misc_pdf/05346_Retro_Kit_Instructions.pdf
http://www.hougen.com/downloads/misc_pdf/02224_904threaded_spind.pdf

After taking out the screws I couldn't figure out how to separate the motorhousing from the slide. (I tried using a rubber mallet to knock it loose).But I unscrewed the top plate and saw where the brushes were located and then got to them by unscrewing the small circular plastic covers at oppositesides near the top of the drill housing.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools/HougenMotorBrushes_zps466ba0d6.jpg

How do I know they are still good? (The rectangular brushes are about 1/2" x 5/8" x 3/16").

Anyway, I put the drill back together and while progressively manipulating the safety switch adjustment between power up tries I got to the point where the drill would turn on, which it wouldn't do before.

So I'm still at a loss as to what the problem was. I probably didn't re-insert the brushes *exactly* the way I took them out and was wondering if thatmight be the reason it is working now.

What other procedures should I undertake before I start re-flowing solder on the control PCB? (Since I have to sell the drill I want to be sure it is working properly). Can anyone tell me where I can find new brushes?

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[[email protected]]

I believe Jeff is steering you in the right direction. Worn brushes and

weakened brush springs can lead to intermittent/no contact between the

brushes and the commutator bars.

With something softer than a hammer head (block of wood for example) tap on

the left side, then the right side of the drill motor housing near the top,

tryinng to power the drill after each side is tapped.

If this method results in the motor running, it's liely that the brushes and

springs may need replaced, but cleaning the brush holders may allow

sufficient brush contact.. but the parts may still be required for a proper

repair.



When removing brushes, it's a good practice to keep them apart so they can

be put back in the holder they came out of.. and also to scratch a small

mark on a long side of the brush to indicate the top or end of the motor so

they can be put back in the correct orientation.



Aside from loose connections or brush problems, it appears as though the

motor is turned on/off by a relay on the circuit board. A click noise matbe

noticeable when the start-stop buttons are pressed.

Checking for correct operation of the relay can be performed a couple of

different ways.. definitely check it with the power cord unplugged if you

aren't familiar with working on powered equipment.

If the relay doesn't appear to be reacting to the start-stop buttons, it may

be faulty. If you can desolder the relay to remove it from the board, it can

be checked out-of-circuit with an ohm meter and small power supply or

magnet.



For testing with power applied, only if one is experienced and familiar with

safe testing methods.. using a 120V light bulb instead of the motor,

connected to the circuit board motor leads would allow the relay check tobe

performed without the additional concern regarding rotating parts during

testing.



--

Cheers,

WB

.............







I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Tools/Hougen3_zpse1f7add1.jpg



The Magnet itself seems to work, but the drill portion doesn't. Not counting

when it turned on a couple of times two days ago, making me think that there

was a possible intermittent break somewhere in the connections.



I opened it up and tinkered with the safety switch adjustment screw, but

that wasn't the problem.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/...enSafetySwitchAdjustmentScrew_zpsf865d83a.jpg



The safety switch is located on the bottom of the drill. The bottom of the

drill must be flat against the metal surface in order for the drill to power

on. (See the two buttons at the bottom):

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/...ols/HougenBottom-SafetySwitch_zps3e32a032.jpg



The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will

cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".



I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet

portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I

tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the

Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is

no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/...ls/HougenStart-StopConnectors_zps3495c450.jpg



Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case

there is a cold solder joint somewhere?



I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an

authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed would be

appreciated.



Thanks.



Darren Harris

Staten Island, New York.

I did replace the brushes in the same holders they came out of, but *may* have put one or both back in upside down from how they came out.

Also,I only use my multimeters for the basics and don't really know their functions in depth. So I can only note whether or not the display changes and the number read-outs. But not necessarily what they mean unless I'm just measuring AC or DC voltage or something like that.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[[email protected]]

Have you asked on where there are a

number of people who own these tools?

Yes. And I didn't receive a single response, which is why I posted here.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[[email protected]]

I turned it on and wacked it a few times with a rubber mallet over the course of a week and it worked every time.

So I guess it is ok for now. At least I'll know what to do the next time something like this happens.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

 

[Paul Drahn]

atenislander/Tools/HougenBottom-SafetySwitch_zps3e32a032.jpg> > > > > > The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".> > > > > > I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.> > > http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/...ls/HougenStart-StopConnectors_zps3495c450.jpg> > > > > > Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case there is a cold solder joint somewhere?> > > > > > I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed wou
ld be appreciated.> > > > > > Thanks.> > > > > > Darren Harris> > > Staten Island, New York.> > > > > > Have you asked on news:rec.crafts.metalworking where there are a> > number of people who own these tools? Yes. And I didn't receive a single response, which is why I posted here. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

I turned it on and wacked it a few times with a rubber mallet over the course of a week and it worked every time.

So I guess it is ok for now. At least I'll know what to do the next time something like this happens.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Classic symptom of brushes sticking in their holders. May be brushes
worn so much they jam in the holders.

Paul

 

[[email protected]]

Heheh.. sometimes referred to as Percussive Maintenance.

Well, what I meant was that wacking it with the rubber mallet didn't make it *stop* working. It has worked perfectly since I put the brushes back in.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.