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Help: Connecting Leads to Pins

S

Searcher7

Jan 1, 1970
0
What's on the bottom -- that is, are you working with an existing
circuit board or are you sort of free to roll your own? If you can use
your own layout, something like stripboard might be the ticket. Just
solder as many connector blocks as you need, in parallel, and do all of
the wiring to the top terminals.

Seehttp://www.futurlec.com/ProtoBoards.shtmlfor some examples that
might work.

Ewww! There goes the soldering thing again. :)

There is no existing circuit board involved here. I just need a
support for the terminal blocks, and had intended to use stripboard
providing the hole spacing would allow the pins through. Or perhaps I
can find the stripboard material without holes and make them myself.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
M

Michael A. Terrell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Searcher7 said:
I know what you said.

And the fact that you think I'm arrogant because I don't want to do
things your way, indicate that you are the arrogant one.

If I can get the proper hole spacing, the intent is to use
stripboard(or some material that I can drill the holes in myselfd) and
stand-offs, so the leads to the pins will be permanent and out of
sight underneath.

On the screw side, where some spades might have to be stacked anyway,
I may have to change out connections.


Arrogant? You want to do a hell of a lot of extra work to keep from
learning to solder.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
K

kell

Jan 1, 1970
0
On Feb 11, 7:40 pm, "Searcher7
There is no existing circuit board involved here. I just need a
support for the terminal blocks, and had intended to use stripboard
providing the hole spacing would allow the pins through. Or perhaps I
can find the stripboard material without holes and make them myself.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York

I'm assuming that the pins on your connectors have the standard
spacing of 1/10 inch or multiple thereof.
The prefab perforated board you buy will have hole spacing of 1/10
inch. Get the kind of perfboard that has a copper pad around each
hole; Radio Shack may have it, or order from a hobby house like
allelectronics.com or use one of the big suppliers like digikey or
mouser.
Along with the perfboard, buy yourself a soldering iron and some rosin-
core electronics solder. For your job, the solder diameter isn't
critical. You may be able to go to Radio Shack and buy a little
plastic tube with coil of solder in it instead of a whole half-pound
roll.
I'm only speaking from having glanced at the photo of the terminal
strip you posted, but those pins look like they're meant for inserting
into printed circuit board holes and soldering into place. That is
their purpose. If you can do that, it will work. The other ideas,
like wire wrapping, crimping, drilling etc. are just going to give you
a big ice cream headache. There might be a way to achieve a firm
mechanical mounting for the terminal strips without soldering them to
perfboard, but you will have to continue looking for ideas on that,
because the alternatives mentioned so far are going to be more trouble
for you than simply soldering the pins to perfboard.
Whereupon your terminal strips will have a mechanically sound mounting
substrate, as it were, that you can attach to standoffs or such, and
have a rigid assembly.
 
K

kell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ewww! There goes the soldering thing again. :)

There is no existing circuit board involved here. I just need a
support for the terminal blocks, and had intended to use stripboard
providing the hole spacing would allow the pins through. Or perhaps I
can find the stripboard material without holes and make them myself.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just wrote a long post about soldering, but here's another idea...
Drill a hole in each end of the terminal strip and mount it on
standoffs. You might be able to just remove one terminal screw from
each end of the strip and use the screw hole. Just cut the pins off
with wire cutters. If the terminal strips are a bit flimsy you might
have to put some material under them for support.
Or instead of standoffs use a block of (electrically insulating)
material under the terminal strip, and just screw the terminal strip
down (after cutting the pins off, of course).
 
F

Fred Bloggs

Jan 1, 1970
0
Searcher7 said:
I know what you said.

And the fact that you think I'm arrogant because I don't want to do
things your way, indicate that you are the arrogant one.

Yeah- but you said "You haven't read what I wrote" and not anything
about a preferred way of doing things. So in addition to being an
arrogant passive/agressive type, you are combative.
If I can get the proper hole spacing, the intent is to use
stripboard(or some material that I can drill the holes in myselfd) and
stand-offs, so the leads to the pins will be permanent and out of
sight underneath.

On the screw side, where some spades might have to be stacked anyway,
I may have to change out connections.

If that's the case then the answer is it's impossible to attach leads of
that size to that terminal strip...except possibly by individually
twisting the wires around the "posts" and then using electrical tape.
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Underneath what?!

I've used Ferruls before with Din-Rail style terminal blocks. (I probably
spelled "ferruels" wrong, but try some variations.)

Let's see, who makes terminal blocks:? Try:
http://www.weidmuller.com/portal/page?
_pageid=33,960190&_dad=portal&_schema=PORTAL

Also, try Phoenix Contact, or just Google "DIN Rail terminal blocks"..
There are plenty of vendors.

If you're were thinking those little black screw-type things with the big
metal screws, the tops of which are open to the world when wired up,
that's a different type of "terminal block". But I suppose you could
still use ferrules with them... The purpose of which is of course, wire
identification, solid connections, and to help prevent wire breakage.

There are barrier strip lugs that are bent 90 degrees, so the end can
go through a hole next to the barrier strip so you can solder to it
"underneath".

There are also billions of header connectors out there - try a goolge
on "AMP MODU".

Good Luck!
Rich
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'll need to connect 18g to 22g leads to the pins. But I have no way of
measuring the size of the pins, which are actually flat and also rounded
at the point.

Then wire-wrap is not applicable.

What's wrong with just soldering them?

Thanks,
Rich
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Looks like a PCB-mount style to me. If the nameplate goes on top that is.
Otherwise...???

The "nameplate" is actually just an escutcheon; it goes underneath the
block, and the slots across the bottom can act as a drill template;
that's also where the pins go through.

And you just solder your wires to the pins, or use a PCB, and solder
them to the pads just like any other component.

Cheers!
Rich
 
J

John Fields

Jan 1, 1970
0
The "nameplate" is actually just an escutcheon; it goes underneath the
block, and the slots across the bottom can act as a drill template;
that's also where the pins go through.

And you just solder your wires to the pins, or use a PCB, and solder
them to the pads just like any other component.
 
P

Peter Bennett

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have a difficult time soldering leads to fingerboards, so pins would
be a nightmare.

And I already have a huge number of single row terminal
blocks(strips).

Anyway, I'm assuming there is no crimp-on connector solution for this?

It's hard to tell from the picture, but I think the pins look to be
too long to be intended to be (too many "to be"s there...) soldered to
a PC board, so they were probably intended to be used with wire-wrap,
or some form of connector that could be crimped to the wire.
Wire-wrap will only work with solid wire, and with the right tool, so
you probably should solder the wires to the pins - with a little
practice, it should be easy to make a neat joint.

First tin both the pin and the wire - heat the pin or wire, and allow
solder to flow over it - then place the wire on the pin (in-line with
it), and heat both parts so the solder flows together. I would cover
the resulting joint with a bit of heat-shrink tubing for neatness.

If _really_ don't want to solder, go with the other suggestion to use
crimp terminals on the wires. You should be able to get four wires
(or terminals) (two each side) under the screw.

--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca
 
S

Searcher7

Jan 1, 1970
0
Searcher7wrote:





Arrogant? You want to do a hell of a lot of extra work to keep from
learning to solder.

You must be troll #3?

There is more than one reason not to solder, but I don't have to tell
you.

In the first post I asked about wire wrapping and crimp-ons. Not
soldering. I ruled it out for my own reasons.(Which of course is my
decision to make).

But I'd like to thank everyone else who gave me a better idea of what
I'm dealing with.

Darren Haris
Staten.Islander, New York.
 
S

Searcher7

Jan 1, 1970
0
It's hard to tell from the picture, but I think the pins look to be
too long to be intended to be (too many "to be"s there...) soldered to
a PC board, so they were probably intended to be used with wire-wrap,
or some form of connector that could be crimped to the wire.
Wire-wrap will only work with solid wire, and with the right tool, so
you probably should solder the wires to the pins - with a little
practice, it should be easy to make a neat joint.

First tin both the pin and the wire - heat the pin or wire, and allow
solder to flow over it - then place the wire on the pin (in-line with
it), and heat both parts so the solder flows together. I would cover
the resulting joint with a bit of heat-shrink tubing for neatness.

If _really_ don't want to solder, go with the other suggestion to use
crimp terminals on the wires. You should be able to get four wires
(or terminals) (two each side) under the screw.

--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info :http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info:http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron:http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

Thanks a lot.

I'll have to checek Muser or Digi-key to see what they have.

BTW. Here are the same pins I have:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130073941165

and

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190061218667

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
M

Michael A. Terrell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Searcher7 said:
You must be troll #3?

There is more than one reason not to solder, but I don't have to tell
you.

In the first post I asked about wire wrapping and crimp-ons. Not
soldering. I ruled it out for my own reasons.(Which of course is my
decision to make).

But I'd like to thank everyone else who gave me a better idea of what
I'm dealing with.

Darren Haris
Staten.Islander, New York.


So, the ability to solder for over 40 years makes me a troll? Plonk.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
There is more than one reason not to solder, but I don't have to tell
you.

Oh, please do! Tell us one reason besides terminal laziness or just plain
stubbornness.

Thanks,
Rich
 
S

Searcher7

Jan 1, 1970
0
Oh, please do! Tell us one reason besides terminal laziness or just plain
stubbornness.

I guess you're troll #4.

I find it odd(and immature) that certain individuals get angry and
start name calling because I don't want to do things their way.

But keep stomping your feet. It'll change nothing.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
I guess you're troll #4.

I find it odd(and immature) that certain individuals get angry and
start name calling because I don't want to do things their way.

But keep stomping your feet. It'll change nothing.

Show me exactly where it is in this post that you percieve "name
calling" or "stomping [my] feet".

All I did was ask for an example to back up your assertions.

Apparently, you're just a troll who's too lazy to learn to solder.

Maybe you should go into politics.

Good-bye and Good Luck!
Rich
 
S

Searcher7

Jan 1, 1970
0
Searcher7wrote:







So, the ability to solder for over 40 years makes me a troll? Plonk.

No, being a troll makes you a troll. I never said I was doing a hell
of a lot of owrk to keep from learning to solder.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
S

Searcher7

Jan 1, 1970
0
I guess you're troll #4.
I find it odd(and immature) that certain individuals get angry and
start name calling because I don't want to do things their way.
But keep stomping your feet. It'll change nothing.

Show me exactly where it is in this post that you percieve "name
calling" or "stomping [my] feet".

All I did was ask for an example to back up your assertions.

Apparently, you're just a troll who's too lazy to learn to solder.

Maybe you should go into politics.

Oh... You were not referring to me when you mentioned "laziness" and
"stubbornness"?

And I made no assertions. I was attempting to get as much info as
possible about wire wrapping and crimping for my purposes. If you and
certain others have a problem with that, then you should not have
posted at all.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Oh... You were not referring to me when you mentioned "laziness" and
"stubbornness"?

And I made no assertions. I was attempting to get as much info as
possible about wire wrapping and crimping for my purposes. If you and
certain others have a problem with that, then you should not have
posted at all.

Well, you've has us all running around in circles for almost a week
now, insisting that somebody tell you what you want to hear, rather
than the right answer.

Good-Bye.
Rich
 
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