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headers and sockets for pcbs?

  • Thread starter Thomas P. Gootee
  • Start date
T

Thomas P. Gootee

Jan 1, 1970
0
I am re-designing some pcbs, to make the equipment they're in easier
to manufacture, and service or upgrade.

The pcbs currently have quite a few wires that are soldered directly
to them, that go to front-panel controls (and to other pcbs).

The wires to all of the front-panel controls are also soldered
directly to the solder lugs of the controls (switches, pots, etc).

To make manufacturing and service/maintenance/upgrading faster and
easier, I think that ALL of the wire connections to the pcbs should
use removable connectors, such as pin headers on the boards and crimp
sockets on the wires. Also, where desirable and logical, I think that
sets of multiple individual wires should be replaced with ribbon
cables, with appropriate headers and sockets.

To make this possible, I think that I will have to re-design the front
panel controls, to use a pcb behind the front panel, changing all of
the controls from solder-lug types to pcb-mount types. That way, I can
use headers, sockets, ribbon cables, etc, to connect the existing pcbs
to the front panel controls (via headers on the new
front-panel-interface pcb).

Here's where I would like some help:

I am not very familiar with the vast majority of the myriad different
types of wire-to-board (and board-to-board) connector systems that are
available. There seem to be *zillions* of different ones. And the
catalogs, and even the manufacturers' websites, seem to assume that I
already know how they're assembled and installed, etc. But THAT'S what
I'm trying to find out, so I can decide which ones would be convenient
and cost-effective to put into the design.

So: Does anybody have any "favorite" makes and models of wire-to-board
(or board-to-board) connectors? (They need to be able to handle at
least 1.5 Amps and up to at least 15 V DC. And they need to be easy
and cheap to assemble.) Or any least favorites?

What I was also HOPING to find was someplace that sells ready-made
ribbon-cable types of assemblies, in short lengths (4 to 6 inches),
with versions having 2, 4, and 6 conductors, with connectors already
installed on both ends. I have looked long and hard and can only find
standard computer-type cables that are ready-made (i.e. either way too
many conductors, or way too long).

Anybody?

Regards,

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

-----------------------------
 
R

Ryan Wheeler

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thomas said:
I am re-designing some pcbs, to make the equipment they're in easier
to manufacture, and service or upgrade.

The pcbs currently have quite a few wires that are soldered directly
to them, that go to front-panel controls (and to other pcbs).

The wires to all of the front-panel controls are also soldered
directly to the solder lugs of the controls (switches, pots, etc).

To make manufacturing and service/maintenance/upgrading faster and
easier, I think that ALL of the wire connections to the pcbs should
use removable connectors, such as pin headers on the boards and crimp
sockets on the wires. Also, where desirable and logical, I think that
sets of multiple individual wires should be replaced with ribbon
cables, with appropriate headers and sockets.

To make this possible, I think that I will have to re-design the front
panel controls, to use a pcb behind the front panel, changing all of
the controls from solder-lug types to pcb-mount types. That way, I can
use headers, sockets, ribbon cables, etc, to connect the existing pcbs
to the front panel controls (via headers on the new
front-panel-interface pcb).

Here's where I would like some help:

I am not very familiar with the vast majority of the myriad different
types of wire-to-board (and board-to-board) connector systems that are
available. There seem to be zillions of different ones. And the
catalogs, and even the manufacturers' websites, seem to assume that I
already know how they're assembled and installed, etc. But THAT'S what
I'm trying to find out, so I can decide which ones would be convenient
and cost-effective to put into the design.

So: Does anybody have any "favorite" makes and models of wire-to-board
(or board-to-board) connectors? (They need to be able to handle at
least 1.5 Amps and up to at least 15 V DC. And they need to be easy
and cheap to assemble.) Or any least favorites?

What I was also HOPING to find was someplace that sells ready-made
ribbon-cable types of assemblies, in short lengths (4 to 6 inches),
with versions having 2, 4, and 6 conductors, with connectors already
installed on both ends. I have looked long and hard and can only find
standard computer-type cables that are ready-made (i.e. either way too
many conductors, or way too long).

Anybody?

Regards,

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

-----------------------------

look at MOLEX or AMP
 
T

Thomas P. Gootee

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ryan Wheeler said:
look at MOLEX or AMP

Gee... THANKS!!!

I *HAVE* been looking at them, for quite some time. Too long of a
time.

I realize that beggars can't be choosers. But I was hoping for
something just a LITTLE more-specific than THAT.

But thanks for at least replying.

Regards,

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

-----------------------------
 
R

Roger Hamlett

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thomas P. Gootee said:
Gee... THANKS!!!

I *HAVE* been looking at them, for quite some time. Too long of a
time.

I realize that beggars can't be choosers. But I was hoping for
something just a LITTLE more-specific than THAT.

But thanks for at least replying.

Regards,

Tom Gootee
It really does depend massively on the 'nature' of your front panel. You
are doing a balancing act between tooling cost on the front panel, and
assembly costs, and the changeover point, will depend on the quantities
involved, and the actual parts used on the front panel. As an example, I
had a panel, which had a keypad, LCD, some seperate buttons, and a single
pot. For genuinely 'mass' production, it was cheaper to get rid of the pot
completely, change the main electronics to use a computer controlled pot,
then have a flexible PCB made for the front panel, with direct connection
to the LCD, and the key matrix all built onto one board, with a couple of
new buttons to adjust the digital pot. The connection then became a matter
of using a single strip connector, that goes directly to such flexible
boards. Manufacturers like Molex, and AMP, provide most connector families
you ae likely to need. You need to work out the best way of laying out the
front panel, and the number of connections you need. Then the design you
have chosen here, will 'set' the nature of the plugs you need. The reason
for no specific replies, is that you have not presented enough data to
make anything 'better' really possible...

Best Wishes
 
T

Thomas P. Gootee

Jan 1, 1970
0
Roger Hamlett said:
It really does depend massively on the 'nature' of your front panel. You
are doing a balancing act between tooling cost on the front panel, and
assembly costs, and the changeover point, will depend on the quantities
involved, and the actual parts used on the front panel. As an example, I
had a panel, which had a keypad, LCD, some seperate buttons, and a single
pot. For genuinely 'mass' production, it was cheaper to get rid of the pot
completely, change the main electronics to use a computer controlled pot,
then have a flexible PCB made for the front panel, with direct connection
to the LCD, and the key matrix all built onto one board, with a couple of
new buttons to adjust the digital pot. The connection then became a matter
of using a single strip connector, that goes directly to such flexible
boards. Manufacturers like Molex, and AMP, provide most connector families
you ae likely to need. You need to work out the best way of laying out the
front panel, and the number of connections you need. Then the design you
have chosen here, will 'set' the nature of the plugs you need. The reason
for no specific replies, is that you have not presented enough data to
make anything 'better' really possible...

Best Wishes

Roger,

Thanks for responding!

I am planning to probably just have a ribbon cable or multi-wire
socket or header on each pcb, to connect them each to the front
panel's new pcb (i.e. to another socket or header, there), and then
route traces from the sockets or headers to the appropriate control
and i/o connectors.

In this case, while it MAY eventually be truly mass-produced by
another company, right now it will be produced in relatively small
quantities (just in the hundreds per year, probably). BUT, it will
ALSO still be made available as a KIT version. So I "have" to try to
keep it simple and easy to construct, especially since one of the kit
options that I would LIKE to continue to offer (but don't care too
much if I can't) is an even-lower-cost version of the kit that
includes do-it-yourself PCBs (i.e. blank boards, iron-on patterns,
etchant, etc).

So, in this case, I will be using a plain single-sided standard PCB,
which will be almost the size of the front panel, and will be parallel
to and just behind the panel. The front-panel controls include only
rotary switches, pots, mini-toggle switches, and an LED, all of which
also come in versions with PCB-pin connectors instead of solder lugs.

On the front panel, there are two 2P6T rotary switches, a 1P12T
rotary, two 4P3T rotaries, 2 pots, and 6 SPDT toggle switches, plus an
LED, and i/o connectors, including 5 BNC, three banana jacks, and an
8-pin transistor socket. But there are three different PCBs that
everything connects to (only certain things connect to each pcb). I
also want to use plug and socket connectors for the power and ground
distribution, from the power supply board to the two other boards, and
to power-supply outputs (banana), on the rear panel.

I am planning to probably just have ribbon cable or multi-wire
socket(s) or header(s) on each pcb, to connect them each to the front
panel's new pcb's sockets or headers, and then route traces to the
appropriate control or i/o connectors.

It looks like the Molex KK line, or something similar, might work
well, for this, using a separate wire for each pin. But their
flex-cable (ribbon-like) jumpers, or something like them, look
attractive, too, if appropriate connectors are installed on both ends.

BUT, what I had **HOPED** to find available was ribbon-cable-type, or
similar but multi-discrete-wire-type, **ASSEMBLIES**, that already had
the connectors installed on both ends. I guess that that was too much
to hope for.

One other option that I can think of is card-edge ribbon-cable
connections, since it would be pretty easy for me to put in traces to
match them, and cut slots for the connectors to fit into the edges of
all of the boards. But, again, the fewer steps that are involved in
the production process, the better. However, if I could find
pre-assembled card-edge-connector ribbon cables with a reasonable
number of conductors and enough current-carrying capacity, that might
not be a bad way to go.

Tom
 
R

Roger Hamlett

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thomas P. Gootee said:
Roger,

Thanks for responding!

I am planning to probably just have a ribbon cable or multi-wire
socket or header on each pcb, to connect them each to the front
panel's new pcb (i.e. to another socket or header, there), and then
route traces from the sockets or headers to the appropriate control
and i/o connectors.

In this case, while it MAY eventually be truly mass-produced by
another company, right now it will be produced in relatively small
quantities (just in the hundreds per year, probably). BUT, it will
ALSO still be made available as a KIT version. So I "have" to try to
keep it simple and easy to construct, especially since one of the kit
options that I would LIKE to continue to offer (but don't care too
much if I can't) is an even-lower-cost version of the kit that
includes do-it-yourself PCBs (i.e. blank boards, iron-on patterns,
etchant, etc).

So, in this case, I will be using a plain single-sided standard PCB,
which will be almost the size of the front panel, and will be parallel
to and just behind the panel. The front-panel controls include only
rotary switches, pots, mini-toggle switches, and an LED, all of which
also come in versions with PCB-pin connectors instead of solder lugs.

On the front panel, there are two 2P6T rotary switches, a 1P12T
rotary, two 4P3T rotaries, 2 pots, and 6 SPDT toggle switches, plus an
LED, and i/o connectors, including 5 BNC, three banana jacks, and an
8-pin transistor socket. But there are three different PCBs that
everything connects to (only certain things connect to each pcb). I
also want to use plug and socket connectors for the power and ground
distribution, from the power supply board to the two other boards, and
to power-supply outputs (banana), on the rear panel.

I am planning to probably just have ribbon cable or multi-wire
socket(s) or header(s) on each pcb, to connect them each to the front
panel's new pcb's sockets or headers, and then route traces to the
appropriate control or i/o connectors.

It looks like the Molex KK line, or something similar, might work
well, for this, using a separate wire for each pin. But their
flex-cable (ribbon-like) jumpers, or something like them, look
attractive, too, if appropriate connectors are installed on both ends.

BUT, what I had **HOPED** to find available was ribbon-cable-type, or
similar but multi-discrete-wire-type, **ASSEMBLIES**, that already had
the connectors installed on both ends. I guess that that was too much
to hope for.

One other option that I can think of is card-edge ribbon-cable
connections, since it would be pretty easy for me to put in traces to
match them, and cut slots for the connectors to fit into the edges of
all of the boards. But, again, the fewer steps that are involved in
the production process, the better. However, if I could find
pre-assembled card-edge-connector ribbon cables with a reasonable
number of conductors and enough current-carrying capacity, that might
not be a bad way to go.
For your application, look at simple 0.05" pitch IDC ribbon connectors.
These are the connectors used on the IDE hard drives etc.. The cables can
be made any length you want. If you have noise considerations, 'twist and
flat' versions of the cable, and shielded cables are available. Relative
to most similar connectors, they are cheap, and reliable.

Best Wishes
 
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