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Glueing PCB's Together

Discussion in 'Electronic Design' started by D from BC, Jun 6, 2007.

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  1. D from BC

    D from BC Guest

    I'm thinking of glueing single sided PCB's together 2"x4" to make a
    double sided board.

    I have:
    2 part epoxy
    polyester resin + hardener
    anaerobic adhesive (threadlocker)
    2 part Methacylate adhesive
    Automotive gasket sealer

    Which is best?
    Should I order some special glue instead?
    If needed I can cure it in the kitchen oven..

    My lesser choices were:
    Contact cement
    RTV Silicone
    D from BC
  2. I would use slow cure epoxy (the slower the cure time, the
    higher the thermal resistance, generally). You can make
    liquid epoxy more thixotropic (less drippy and more
    semi-solid) by adding talcum powder to it.
  3. mpm

    mpm Guest

    I would think Epoxy.
    Are you going to have to use eyelets, or some other alternative to
    plated through holes?
    I wonder if the 2X board thickness will be a problem for you?

    Also, when I first read this, "pop-rivets" came to mind, but then
    again, I never really did that well in shop class. :) -mpm
  4. John Larkin

    John Larkin Guest

    Epoxy, and not too much of it. Just clamp them together nice and snug,
    and cure at room temp. Be careful about alignment!

  5. GregS

    GregS Guest

    Silicone usually works for most things. I would use that or Plummers Goop.
    With Plummers Goop, it will not come apart. It will also take a few days to dry, so will silicone
    Epoxy or anaerobic stuff will be much faster. Roughen up surface for silicone and Plummers Goop., or
    even epoxy. Thought about using fiberglass epoxy?

  6. D from BC

    D from BC Guest

    lol..pop rivets ..I might do that.. :)
    It gets me thinking..
    I don't know why I'm thinking glue...
    I'll check out using bolts, clips ....maybe the soldered through hole
    parts might keep the boards together..

    There's no eyelets, or plated through holes..

    I have SMD parts on one side and through hole parts hand soldered on
    both sides to join layers.

    It's DIY homebrew stuff..

    D from BC
  7. D from BC

    D from BC Guest

    fiberglass epoxy?
    Is that just epoxy with fiberglass in it?
    Or do you mean automotive epoxy?
    I get the big can :)

    I didn't favor silicone due to slow cure..
    Also..silicone doesnt have nice flow...however I have fixes for that..
    I know there's 2 part silicones but haven't tried to getm yet.

    Plummers Goop... :)
    That made me think of PL400 heavy duty sub floor construction adhesive
    from Home Depot (hardware store)
    If it's good enough for frozen's gotta ge good PCB glue! :)
    ...just kidding..
    D from BC
  8. Barry Lennox

    Barry Lennox Guest

    I've seen it done with a nut and bolt at each corner. That's probably
    the easiest and quickest.

    But, why? Scrap 2 sided is just as easy to get as single sided.

  9. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    Go with the epoxy. The mere mention of pop rivets makes my hair stand
    on end =:-O . And nuts and bolts to hold two boards back-to-back is just

    If you have access to a planer, you could shave them from .062 to .031,
    then the final board would look real. ;-)

  10. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    Yes, just like the PCBs are made of.

    But you don't need any glass for the joint.
    Not if you're talking about the kind for fiberglas body work.
    Geez, D, the boards are _made of_ epoxy! How could you even _contemplate_
    anything else?

    Sheesh! ;-)

  11. You've never used copper pop rivets to hold sockets to a steel
    chassis, so you can solder the rivet and socket to the chassis?

    Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
    prove it.
    Member of DAV #85.

    Michael A. Terrell
    Central Florida
  12. Wouldn't it be a bit easier to just start with 0.8mm material?

    Best regards,
    Spehro Pefhany
  13. D from BC

    D from BC Guest

    Makes sense epoxy based PCB's glued together with ....what else..more
    epoxy! :)

    k...Epoxy wins...

    But I like the cool factor of an anaerobic adhesive. :)
    I have some left over Loctite threadlocker for nults and bolts..
    No mixing...
    Uncured portion is cleaned away.
    Nice flow.
    Clueless it it'll work which makes it fun :p

    The polyester resin + hardener I thought would be a cheapass
    alternative to epoxy..But I'm using such small epoxy
    I think the polyester resin fumes are bad too..
    D from BC
  14. JeffM

    JeffM Guest

  15. It has crummy adhesion to epoxy, too.
  16. JackShephard

    JackShephard Guest

    Place vias, and then solid copper wires strategically around the board.
    Solder them up during the epoxy step for both board to board conduction
    paths, as well as physical stationing.
  17. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    Yes, if he hasn't ordered the material yet - but if he hasn't, why not
    just order double-sided? So I ass-u-me-d that he had ordinary .062
    boards on hand that he wanted to glue together. :)

    D, what exactly _do_ you have so far?

    P.S.: in American English, it's "gluing".
  18. D from BC

    D from BC Guest

    0.032" total thickness...floppy stuff :)
    I have about 12sq ft of single clad PCB in my junk storage.
    But my projects are often 2 clad..
    Hence..the glue idea..

    glu ing...check :)
    D from BC
  19. mpm

    mpm Guest

    First of all, I think pop-rivets get undeserved bad press!

    Maybe if they called 'em "Miracle Rivets" or "Oxy-Rivets?"
    (Nevermind, that's a Billy Mayes TV flashback - That guy would sell
    his mother!!.)

    I think pop-rivets are God's gift to engineers. (You can quote me on
    Of course, it could also explain why they won't let me back in the
    Shop anymore...

    ....unless the polyurethane foam packager gets clogged or goes off
    line, and then all of the sudden I'm McGuyver or something.
  20. mpm

    mpm Guest

    Hand routing single-sided boards is becoming a lost art, I fear....
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