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Generator Transfer Switch: Combining Multiple House Circuits on One Switch Circuit?

Discussion in 'Home Power and Microgeneration' started by (PeteCresswell), Dec 6, 2012.

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  1. Jim Wilkins

    Jim Wilkins Guest

    I haven't found any commercial AC current recorders that don't cost
    more than you could ever save.
    http://www.microdaq.com/supco/data-loggers/logit/current-voltage-data-logger.php

    Mine is an old laptop connected to a Radio Shack 22-805 PC Link meter
    with a clamp-on current probe. It won't measure wattage like a
    120V-only KAW but it can record the highest current demand.
    jsw
     
  2. Per Jim Wilkins:
    I never even knew such things existed.

    I could live without the clamp-on sensing... but a Kill-A-Watt
    with a USB port and some PC software would appeal to my inner
    tech-weenie.
     
  3. Yep, we had just such an oven in our gas range when we lived in a trailer
    house, HSI wired in series with a thermal gas valve, I hated it because of
    how long it took for the thing to heat up or cool down and turn on and off
    the burner, and if the HSI burns out the oven is DOA. I much prefer indirect
    spark ovens where the spark lights a pilot and the pilot lights the main
    burner, they cycle faster and can be lit manually if the power is out or the
    sparker fails.
     
  4. Jim Wilkins

    Jim Wilkins Guest

    http://www.ladyada.net/make/tweetawatt/

    The clamp-on measures current in hardwired 240V appliances such as my
    water heater. It's a simple and safe way to record the On and Off
    times.

    I use a cheap 12-year-old laptop without a battery because such
    temporary card-table setups are rickety. A laptop won't tip over as
    easily as a monitor, and it waste less power.
    jsw
     
  5. Neon John

    Neon John Guest

    Pete,

    There's a very nice clamp-on tRMS wattmeter available for about $150.
    It's the TES3079K meter. Aimed at the HVAC market. It is quite
    accurate as compared to my lab standard (0.25% FS) meter. It works
    well on low frequencies (I've tried 25hz) and would probably work at
    DC. My only bitch is that it takes about 5 seconds to generate the
    first reading on the watts scale.

    Internally there are pads that look like they're intended for RS-232.
    No idea if they are - something I've been meaning to check - but you'd
    need an isolated transceiver in any event, as the board can be "hot".

    John
    John DeArmond
    http://www.neon-john.com
    http://www.fluxeon.com
    Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
    See website for email address
     
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