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Gate Sensor?

S

Steve

Jan 1, 1970
0
RV storage area with two 15ft gates mounted to metal gate posts not attached
to the main building. Looking to put a contact on it. Anything readily off
the shelf?

GRI makes 3/4 and 1 inch contacts for metal doors. Anybody make 1/2 inch
ones?


Thanks
 
G

G. Morgan

Jan 1, 1970
0
RV storage area with two 15ft gates mounted to metal gate posts not attached
to the main building. Looking to put a contact on it. Anything readily off
the shelf?

GRI makes 3/4 and 1 inch contacts for metal doors. Anybody make 1/2 inch
ones?

I'd use an overhead door contact, for the durability and the extra "gap"
you'll need for a gate.
 
S

Steve

Jan 1, 1970
0
G. Morgan said:
I'd use an overhead door contact, for the durability and the extra "gap"
you'll need for a gate.

How should I get from the gate into the post? Some sort of flexible look I
would think, but not sure where to find it.

TIA
 
G

G. Morgan

Jan 1, 1970
0
How should I get from the gate into the post? Some sort of flexible look I
would think, but not sure where to find it.

A picture would help.

Generally you can fish the wire through the insides of the gate's tubing. It's
best to use "armored" cable for coming out of the tubes, and as a flexible
conduit for transitions to boxes, etc... You can buy the small empty cable
armor at ADI, and just run a 22/4 thru it. (It's the same size that comes with
the OH contacts. Don't know the part # off hand).

Or you can use PVC conduit, and boxes mounted right to the gate, but it won't
look as pretty.
 
M

motley me

Jan 1, 1970
0
RV storage area with two 15ft gates mounted to metal gate posts not
attached to the main building. Looking to put a contact on it.
Anything readily off the shelf?

GRI makes 3/4 and 1 inch contacts for metal doors. Anybody make 1/2
inch ones?


Thanks

How bout this:

Part Number 8450-2 Gate Mounting Kit Consists of:
1 S4402-A SPDT Switch
1 M-4400 Magnet
2 S-202 Brackets
4 #6-32 x 5/16 Zinc Hex Nuts
4 #6 External Lock Washers
4 #6-32 x 3/4 Phillips Machine Screws
2 #8 x 1 Self Tap Combo Panhead Type A Screws

GRI contact for gates.
 
C

CH®IS

Jan 1, 1970
0
How bout this:

Part Number 8450-2 Gate Mounting Kit Consists of:
1 S4402-A SPDT Switch
1 M-4400 Magnet
2 S-202 Brackets
4 #6-32 x 5/16 Zinc Hex Nuts
4 #6 External Lock Washers
4 #6-32 x 3/4 Phillips Machine Screws
2 #8 x 1 Self Tap Combo Panhead Type A Screws

GRI contact for gates.

http://www.grisk.com/surface_mount/mounting kits.htm
....These ones?

There is one complaint I've had regarding these gate contacts... changing
seasons is not kind to them.

Every six months or so we get calls from whereever we have these installed
to come out and fix them. Turns out that the gates and fences move so much
that the contacts won't line up to the magnets anymore. Eventually the
fence post has dozens of extra holes in it.

Also, do not use the supplied bolts to secure anything to anything. They
will break halfway through installation.

The pull apart switch may be a good solution for you...
http://www.grisk.com/specialty/4704.htm

I haven't installed one of these yet, but have built something similar with
good success. We've had one floating around in the office for at least the
past five years (the 4704-A by the looks of it), mixed in with a random
assortment of odd contacts and switches. Looking at how it's designed
though, it looks like it would work very well. In case someone's thinking
of just unscrewing it off the post, it has that covered already. Remove the
four obvious screws and you'll find that you need to disconnect the switch
in order to remove the hidden screw. Too late though, the zone is already
open.

- Chris
 
A

alarman

Jan 1, 1970
0
CH®IS said:
There is one complaint I've had regarding these gate contacts...
changing seasons is not kind to them.

Every six months or so we get calls from whereever we have these
installed to come out and fix them. Turns out that the gates and
fences move so much that the contacts won't line up to the magnets
anymore. Eventually the fence post has dozens of extra holes in it.

I have used unistrut channel to mount the contacts. If adjustments are
necessary later, you can usually move the channel without re drilling. It
also gives you a more stable mounting surface for the contact and magnet,
and facillitates allignment.
http://www.unistrut.com/Browse/cat_detail.php?S=S02&P=P4100SL
 
C

CH®IS

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have only one objection to pull apart sensors. You have to remember to
reconnect them every time you use the gate. Homeowners may be good at
remembering but the mailman, newspaper carrier, UPS drivers, etc., are not
likely to do it. That means every time someone other than a family member
leaves the property it's necessary to go out and fix the thing again. My
guess is that after a while they'll stop using it and just bypass the
zone.

Very true. It comes down to a matter of getting them to get their staff
into the habit of using them. Other people aren't a concern, these are
always gates that are only closed when the business is closed... and are
locked.
The problem with gates becoming misaligned is true with older fences.
Newer ones may hold up better for some years. I've used GE Security's
wide gap sensors for gates on a number of sites with fairly good results.
The sensors have a 3" gap. During installation I try to get them no more
than 1/2" apart. That way if they move out an inch or two over time the
zone is still good.

Do you have a link for these contacts? It's been awhile since I've had to
play with one of these gate contacts but I don't believe they get close to
3" of a reliable gap.
I used GE's overhead door contacts for the same reason. In Connecticut
winters there were frequent snow storms. When snow and ice would build up
the doors didn't always close completely. By placing the magnet on top of
the door where it had to pass by the contact I got almost 5-inches of play
before the sensor would trip. With a gate contact you don't have a way to
extend the coverage like that but the 3" gap is often enough.

Connecticut winters? I spent a couple minutes on google trying to figure
out if those exist. I'm quite sure they don't.

Speaking of winters though, the other problem we have is with beam systems.
The posts are always moving around with the weather. Turns out the best way
to protect something is to remove the fence and build a wall.

- Chris
 
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