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from breadboard to hard wired

Discussion in 'Electronic Basics' started by Michael Eisenstadt, Jul 30, 2004.

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  1. Generous readers of this forum walked me through
    the building of a Pulse Width Modulator. This
    was earlier in the year in January.

    The project was to reduce the speed of a small
    12v DC motor which turns a 4 foot disk, in this
    case a painting on canvas mounted on a round
    laminated wooden stretcher, so fairly light.
    The point of the PWModulator is to conserve the
    batteries which power the motor whereas a voltage
    regulator would discharge the batteries faster.

    Other things intervened but having returned
    to the project I was pleased to see that the
    electronics work and that the speed of the
    motor can be adjusted to very slow.

    I now need to hardwire the components. As a
    total newbie, I am not even sure which side
    of the board the components are mounted

    The schematic of the PWModulator and pictures
    of the breadboard with components and of two
    sides of boards for hardwiring is at

    I am writing to ask if there is an online FAQ
    on basic electronic wiring or failing which
    whether there is a useful book you can recommend
    to learn how to do this.

    Thanks in advance.

    Mike Eisenstadt
  2. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    The component side, of course.

  3. CFoley1064

    CFoley1064 Guest

    Subject: from breadboard to hard wired
    Hi, Mike. You've already got it working on a protoboard. Why not buy a PC
    board that's set up like your perfboard, and just transfer it over? If you
    know how to solder, Radio Shack has a Matching Printed Circuit Board for $3.29
    USD (Catalog #: 276-170) which will do the job.

    While you're there look at the newbie books to get you started.

    Good luck
  4. Thanks Chris for your prompt reply. I already have the
    board that you recommend. There's a picture of the 2
    boards already in inventory reproduced on the I referenced above.

    I have already soldered the 3 terminals on the

    It seems sorta likely that you mount the components
    on the bare side of the board at the same time putting
    an additional wire in that hole to connect to some
    component somewhere else on the board. Then on the
    other side of the board you trim the wires that poke
    through the various holes and spot solder them to
    the copper ring around the holes.

    Would the official basic soldering FAQ ISO DIN 9000
    manual confirm this supposition?

    Thanks to sci.electronics.basics folks I already
    got it past Proof of Concept on a breadboard. Do
    I have to buy a book at this point? I hope not.


    Michael Eisenstadt
  5. My last post proves once again that the fingers are faster
    than the brain.

    The holes in the board are too small for both the MOSFET's
    legs and an additional connecting wire to go through together.
    And most likely the CMOS NAND gate legs as well.

    (schematic etc. is reproduced at

    So my original guess about how to put and connect components
    on a board was wrong.

    I am overlooking something very obvious. Thanks for your

    Mike Eisenstadt
  6. CFoley1064

    CFoley1064 Guest

    Subject: Re: from breadboard to hard wired
    With through-hole parts (wire leads), the components are inserted on the side
    which does _not_ have the copper. The procedure you walked through is the way
    to do it.

    If you're a newbie at soldering components, one of the best web resources is
    the EPE (Everyday Practical Electronics) magazine tutrorial on soldering:

    The words "spot soldering" are enough to give one pause. It sounds
    uncomfortably close to "spot welding". The tutorial will give you what you
    need to get started without frying your components. If you'd like to look at
    newbie books, but are a little short on cash, use your local library's
    resources, including interlibrary loans if available. They have a lot of good
    resources, too. And look at older issues of electronics magazines for ideas,
    including EPE (British), Nuts & Volts, and the late Radio-Electronics. Glad to
    be of help.

    Good luck
  7. CFoley1064

    CFoley1064 Guest

    Subject: Re: from breadboard to hard wired
    If IC pins are too large for the holes on the perfboard, you've either got a
    defective board or the wrong board. For larger semiconductor leads, you might
    have to solder 22AWG solid wire to the leads to make the board connection.
    This will be good for an Amp or so of current.

    Good luck
  8. Bob Masta

    Bob Masta Guest

    If you want to construct a simple etched printed
    circuit board, check out <>.
    But if you don't expect to be doing much more
    electronic construction, it might be simpler to
    just use a piece of perfboard. You bend the
    leads and stick them through the holes just as
    in protoboard, only you push each component
    all the way flush with the surface. Then you hold
    it tight to the surface while you wrap the protruding
    lead around another protruding lead, or wrap with
    a separate piece of hookup wire to make the
    connection. Solder each joint after it is mechanically
    sound, then clip off the excess leads. You usually
    want to insert only a few components at a time and
    wire them up before adding more components,
    or the back side will look like a porcupine and be
    hard to work on. After you push a component
    down to the surface, spread the leads on the
    back side a little to hold it there while you insert
    the next one.

    Hope this helps!

    Bob Masta

    D A Q A R T A
    Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
  9. You've got me puzzled. That circuit looks like a simple square wave
    oscillator. Its duty cycle will therefore be roughly fixed. Yet you
    say you can vary the speed of the motor? That's what the author claims
    for his 'Pulse Width Modulation' circuit too. Surely, PWM keeps the
    cycle period (and hence frequency) fixed, while changing the duty
    cycle? adrift somewhere. Can someone clarify please?


    To build it, I'd use perfboard, with copper strips. The holes for the
    MOSFET, and for the heavyish duty wires to the motor, will probably
    need drilling out slightly (to maybe 1 mm). Use a 14-pin DIL socket
    for the 4011. Drill holes in two corners of the small board if you
    want to mount it in a small case. Alternatively, with such a compact,
    light board, a piece of sponge will secure it adequately. A hole in
    the case will accommodate your pot.
  10. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    It looks like it's just that it's such a crappy oscillator that you
    couldn't hold the duty cycle constant with a C-clamp.

  11. He' s trying to put two wires through one hole. won't work.

    I prepare jumper ends by forming a teensy hook (using sturdy sharp
    straight tweezers), then crimp that hook shut around the leg of the device
    I am hooking up to - as close to the board as possible (needle nosed
    pliers). Then solder. Then trim.
    If you use stranded wire you must tin the end before forming the hook.
    Solid wire is easier.
    Easy on the coffee.
    Good luck
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